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yea i would like to see pics please... a little confused by your explaination...
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Anyway just bought a few things... Want to keep all this up to date. I also need to think out loud and work out what else i need to get...
Purchased today... - 2x 47t HPI Plastic Spurs ( i thought i would give these ago before the centre diff upgrade. Im tired of changing pinions and would prefer to change spurs. - Gorilla Tape - hopefully this works better at strapping my tyres - 40 series Moabs - only for jumping - Axial over size in black - only for jumping - Extra 29t idler tranny gear - i feel that i have been lucky as no gears have broken in the last 7 runs :) apart from my pinion - Extra 32t drive tranny gear - Extra wheel nuts Things to order. Starting with the most vital: - SHD Drive shafts - SHD wheel Axles - SHD Diff Axles - Ofna spider centre diff 46t - RCM Universal CD/Motor Mount - 12t pinion - Custom centre drive shafts - Custom Plate For RCM Mount to bolt too. - 80k CD diff fluid - GH Steering assembly - Racers Edge alloy servo horn - Full BOCA Bearing Upgrade (not sure which ones) but im not going to skimp on quality here. my bearings are failing pretty quickly ICE HV 160 ESC (MMMXL) Hyperion lipos - 1x 5s 5000MAH+ 35C - 2x 2s 5000MAH+ 35c = 9s -GH Bulks? dont want to add more weight if i can help it. I think the Diffs will need to be soild so no movement is incurred when using 9s. I have a feeling my diffs will be the weak point. - Decent Hyperion Charge duo Anyone else see anything i should be adding which i do not have already? |
Gorilla Tape has been working great for me. Its a bit heavier, but its got some grippy glue.
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i hope to try them first on the Moabs... and when i have a bit of time, i will bake the badlands of the SPIS and retape them.
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im in the process of tearing the truck down completely as its time for a full service... As we have had some very nice weather, i am doing my rebuild outside. Its a bit of a mess but here is my temporary outdoor workstation
http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00430.jpg I found that all most of my bearings require changing or a clean. So i cleaned the ones which work and corrosion x'ed them. I found one of my diff bearings had seized!!!! Very bad!!! So i think its nearly time for a full Boca Bearing upgrade... Also here are pics of my pinion which completely disintegrated... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00431.jpg And i also somehow destroyed my fronot pinion of my so called "BULLET PROOF" Diffs gears!!! http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00428.jpg Here is both from a front view... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00433.jpg I have now managed to buy a replacement single BP Pinion from ebay from a guy called ianwhorlow (uk ebay name) He is amazing! i asked him if he could do it and he said sure. Charged me 9 pounds! I am happy with that considering you cant get them separately from HPI... I will call HPI tomorrow and tell them about it, hopefully they will send me a new one! I also bought 4 new drive shafts and 4 XL SHD Drive shafts for 30pounds which i am quite happy about... considering they have a UK Value of around #80 Pounds! Hopefully this will be running by next weekend |
You really think those Integy SHD shafts are going to holdup better than the factory shafts? Or is that a price decision?
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sorry im a little confused where you got integy from? I dont use integy, but if there is one product i may consider it would be the rear tie rod deletes.
im getting the HPI SHD Shafts... They are very strong, its just when i cart wheel, it causes them to bend... What do you think is the easiest way to bend these shafts straight again? |
Sorry - I did a Google search for SHD shafts, and it showed me some integy shafts for the Savage.
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Hello Jahay, I might be able to help you on the pinion issue ^^
As my mugen spur literaly ate my RCM pinions, I tried 4-5 brands (my setup is MBX5T + NEU-Castle 1520/1Y + 6S + 15/46 gearing) : RCM : fragile, already use after 6-8 batteries losi : stronger than RCM, but already used after ~ 20 batteries Robinson Racing : already used after 20 batteries Castle Creations : currently testing HPI : currently testing NOVAK : currently testing but seems to be stronger than all previous. ==> try the NOVAK pinions ! You can find them on Ebay under 3 pinions package like 19-20-21 for example. For your diffs, try to shim them, the mesh has to be good, and the diff must not have right-left play (mesh must be constant). |
I know Nuz! Im going through pinions every 5-10 runs!
Im trying a 17t hpi pinion on there now (havent run yet) but once this fails, ill prob be looking into doing my Centre diff conversion. I will look into novak pinions then. Thanks for the help!!! im happy it isnt just me experiencing Pinion problems... Most people dont seem to have these problems... |
That's because most people run 7lbs buggies with hot tiny little 1512 sized motor geared for 35mph and 50 punch control :na::na::na::na:
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I have a Novak 20t on my XL Savage with a 1520, still as new.
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Nice1 i will look into novak pinions next... So where is the cheapest place to get them in europe vortex? or do you get them sent from the states?
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I got mine from TCS, about 6$, but check here if you only need a pinion:
http://www.liquidrc.com/index.php?ma...a_filter_id=80 |
yea TCS is very expensive on postage unless you are buying a lot! Plus i always get stung with customs when ordering with the... ill try that other site
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I live in France, i got them in asia by 3 pinions package, ~20 euros.
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nuz do you have a site?
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Ebay, I bought them from dinball store in asia if I remember correctly. Just type "mod1 pinion novak" you will find it.
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nice1!!! seems so cheap! Are they genuine?
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Quote:
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._3784759_n.jpg |
Quote:
The packs are still cheaper here, and shipping from US seems very fast now, I got last 2 packages in less than a week!:intello: http://www.liquidrc.com/index.php?ma...a_filter_id=77 |
thanks for the pic gdot... i can see what you have done there. How is it holding up??? Is it worth it???
vortex... i will have another browse at their site and compare postage costs.... I hope novak pinions are good... my wear on the pinions is starting to annoy me... The RCM Centre diff mount with make it much easier to swap pinions! |
OK Centre diff is my next custom thing to carry out... I was originally going to use the RCM Universal mount but it just doesnt convince me that the motor will not rip from the mount on an extremely bad landing... This is a savage and has been and will jump even higher!
So thanks to _DV for a little inspiration who is customising his savage at the moment, i have decided to use his idea for the centre diff. The only reason i am using it is because IMO it is the BEST! No more willi need to take off the side chassis plates to work on the savage... If i want to work on the motor, i can just unscrew it from the side of the TVP, if i want to work on the diff, just drop it from below. Obviously its hard to picture what i am getting at, but you will all see once the work starts... List of things i am buying for this... - Ofna 6 spider diff from Singlechamp on this site. I was going to go with the slipperential, but i didnt think it was as tough as having 6 bevel gears. (my motor likes to break gears and diffs) http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...3/P1020875.jpg - This will be the diff mount i use... $10!!! # ED010131 - HB Lightning Alloy Centre Diff Mounts (Buggy, RR & Pro) http://www.rc-edit.com/graphics/part...d010131_01.jpg Because i am getting rid of the motor plate and the transmission, i will be losing a lot of structural rigidity. So i will be re enforcing the chassis with braces utilising the exisiting holes for the plate and tranny.... - # ED010581 - Aluminium Joint Bar Set (All Savage Series) http://www.rc-edit.com/graphics/part...d010581_02.jpg I will be making a custom diff mount plate out of 4mm aluminium which i think should be strong enough. The Diff mounts will be bolted to this plate and the braces attatched to it. I will fit it to the chassis in a way that i can maintain useablility of my current rear drive shaft, but i will still need one custom drive shaft for the front... It would be better to have a longer drive shaft at the front... correct as a lot of stress is put on the rear shaft. |
Was at small meet on the weekend and a friend managed to catch my savage flying... Here are some backflips and double back flips with the MOABS... This truck is awesome!!! Such good air control!
http://www.youtube.com/user/jahay87#p/a/f/0/rZxyTwXFWbo |
Here is a new updated video of the HayMonster! Hope you enjoy
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That was quite cool- more than enough power to throw itself around with ease. Needs a bigger wheelie bar though I reckon... :whistle:
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Definitely need a bigger wheelie bar, but i dont know of any that will stand up to the abuse.... any ideas....
CHECK THIS After my last run on saturday doing jumps, i noticed a perculier sound coming from the diffs, and then before you knew it i had thought i had stripped my BP Diffs... Upon inspection and checking them yesterday... this was found to be NOT the case... My ring and pinion are absolutely fine... So what happend??? All 4 screws backed out of the diff casing holding the ring gear on.... What was the result??? psh... look at these pics... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00482.jpg Crazy!!! So i was then thinkinig... where the hell is the 4th screw head? I looked everywhere in the diff grease and couldnt feel or see it...... Where did i find it in the end??? Check this pic of the bulk head. And notice the groove cut out by the screws that muse have slided it up upon backing out... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00483.jpg I am happy as no gears were damaged, and it shows that you really should not get any diff oil in teh screw holes or the loc tite wont work... I knew this but i was in a rush to get it running.... I know the inside of the bulks are destroyed, but i really want to run this weekend so i am going to give it a go... if it works, then great... if not, then what ever... but i think its time for some GH Alloy Bulks (but no deniro at the moment so will have to do with stock...) |
If the bearing housing of the bulkhead is ok, then it's ok. Maybe use longer screws ? Never seen such a thing in a diff ^^ The loctite does'nt work between steel and diff plastic, it's designed to work for steel on steel, so IMO you don't need it, just screw it tough ! Other than that, ready to 9S ? :lol::lol:
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the screws them selves came out of the steel diff housing. So loc tite does work, but in my rush to assemble and fill with diff oil... some of the oil got in the screw holes. And the loctite obvioulsy didnt work causing the screws to back out...
Nuz... stop trying to prevent me from going 9s lol IM GOING TO DO IT!!! haha you are just worried my savage will then be faster than your mbx5t :) |
Ow my bad, your diff housing is made of steel, ok. Yes in this case for loctite... Why you took steel diff housing ? Plastic were too fragile ? Yeaah I can't wait the result with 9S Lipo ^^ 90mph savage ??? :lol::lol:
Just keep me posted on your tires, I am actually searching good BIG tires for difficult bashing area, but BIG tires means BIG ballooning :oops::oops: |
well a steel diff housing is much much better than plastic to prevent any sort of distortion which could ruin mesh and cause damage to the gears...
My Moabs are very big and very heavy i would probably never recommend them on anything smaller than my truck (the only reason i have them is they offer great air control) but they dont balloon thanks to the gorilla tape i have used to tape them... I wish 9s gave me 90mph haha but it will be a much more conservative 75-80mph with no heating issues and conservative gearing. Psh anything over 60-65mph is my realisitic target... I just want to do some huge rolling backflips at 50mph haha |
Thanks to _dv i have been able to start my Centre diff conversion
... Ive been rushing the work so it hasnt been so accurate but it will work well once i am finished... would have been so much easier to get it cnc'd if i had done a cad drawing, but hey, it really isnt that hard and just takes a bit of time to get everything to line up Ok So i am using a 4mm alloy plate as the base plate... Here are some pics of my progress so far... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00486.jpg http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00487.jpg http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00488.jpg I will get fitment finalised properly tomorrow... then find the best mounting between the tvps which allows me to utilise my originial front drive shaft so i will only need to get one custom rear drive shaft made up. |
What's the weight of that center diff? Outside bearing measurement?
You'll be happy to know that my diff mount has had no issues in the few test runs i've done. One small bit of advice, make the cutout for the spur wide enough so that you can easily remove the diff from mount closest to the spur when the opposite mount is removed. |
I made some progress today... I have mounted the diff to the TVPs and worked out i need a 16.5cm Rear drive shaft made up...
I also cut a alloy plate which will act as my motor plate and will be bolted to the side of the TVPs... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00498.jpg http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00497.jpg http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00494.jpg This is how the motor plate may look with the motor attached to the plate... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00496.jpg http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/DSC00500.jpg _dv thanks for the advice, i will do that... i will get the dimensions of the diff for you tomorrow. |
further update... getting there now
Tiny update.. things are moving slow but at least they are moving... I have now managed to mount the motor to the plate. Wasnt the cleanest job, but it does the job. Some pics for all yall :) In this image... you can see where i had to cut some slots in the tvps for the motor mounts to slide down enough to provide the right mesh. http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-05203448.jpg You can see what i mean in this pic below http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-05203521.jpg All connected with a nice mesh http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-05203557.jpg You can see how thick the alloy plate is... must offer a little structural rigidity to the tvps considering i have chopped them up a little bit http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-05203741.jpg This is what it looks from the outside... I know i know, it ugly... But what i will do now as its all fitted... i will sand the edges smooth and angle them towards the chassis, and i will paint any alloy bits black for now, so it all blends with the tvps. Anyway this will be covered by the lipo boxes soon... 9s here i come :) http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-09092351.jpg What it looks like on the inside all assembled http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-09092308.jpg And my new Rear drive shaft sent from Chris at GCM... Thanks buddy!!! arrived quickly and fits perfectly! Legend! http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-09092522.jpg I had to cut a little away from my batter tray as the thick centre part was hitting it slightly... not a big issue though and was expected. http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-09092458.jpg What was causing me big problems was finding a strong enough, and the correct length which was long enough to give me full steering, but short enough as to clear the motor mount.. so i decided to make my own. Yes its ugly again, but as long as it does the job... i dont care... http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...8-09092245.jpg Still waiting on my alloy bulks and other little things... but its coming together!!! Enjoy :) all the alloy is looking badly scratched up... maybe get everything re anodized after i bash the hell out of it :) |
Hello,
This setup is lighter than your previous gear box no ? Don't forget to cover the front motor holes with tape to avoid the dust to go in. Still all good with your 1520 ? I race with mine now, it rarely breaks 40°C (geared for 40 mph), so :yipi: NuZ |
yep yep yep lighter!!! trying to save weight anywhere on the savage is a bonus!
i dont have any holes in the front of my motor... Mine is geared for 53mph and doesnt break past 50-53degreesC which i am more than happy with... But i cannot wait for the new mamba xl :) 9s will be swiftly on the way. Im going to install the lipo boxes now so it is all ready for the upgrade! You have great temps for racing! continuously on power is hard on the motor! But the 1520 is a grt motor! |
Yes you have, front screws holes ;) The dirt comes in here.
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haha thanks for the heads up...
What is recommended for covering the holes? |
I use basic electrical tape. Remove the grease/dirt with alcohol, then put some tape. It hold very well.
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