In my RC8Te I run 50K in the CD and on 5S/6S can wheelie pretty much on demand; granted it peters out when the power shifts to the front wheels, but it is sustainable. Not nearly so as the locked Savage. Did want to try the Ofna diff lock fluid on a spare diff though, at least for bashing.

Looks good Nixpus! I do like how you did the batteries, was thinking of the same thing if I redo my Savage 5T conversion.

Same truck and I think I'm running 50k also, could be 100k. My wheelie won't fall though and it nearly does a backflip. Probably would if the spoiler didn't get in the way. That's running 5s with an 1800kv geared 18/44. Can't use full throttle until I'm doing 30+ and having to flip the truck back over gets old real quick. I'd like to try something like 30k.

Yeah I'm running a 1800kv too, but am I'm doing 16/50 on Badlands.

Cool. I'm running IMEX J-Hawgs. My gearing should be more like yours. I just swelled the heck out of my 5s pack.

Nice!
With those terra pins it looks almost as it can drive upside down too.

looks awesome!!! But i would really like to see the handling performance increase from the LCG using tyres with a thinner side wall!!!! Great Work!

Your right Knez :) Some day I'll have to do a truck which can drive on both sides!

Just weighted the thing without bats and wheels...

The wide skid plate + dog bone guard alone weigh 343grams... whic means I'll tick in under a flux once I've removed some alu :party:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1305127929

Just balanced my mashers... so I'll know how it performs with low sidewall tires quite soon!

Will see if I can make a vid at some point.

hmmm thats reminded me.. maybe i should balance my baja wheels and tyres.... ill look at it tonight and see how bad they are...

Im impressed with your overall weight! NOT BAD AT ALL!!! and with some lightening, you will be on to a winner here with the LCG and stronger centre diff setup!

Keep us posted!

I used taggy wax. Pretty straight forward... but it doesn't look super pro!

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1305186804

Truck with Mashers look better than with Terra pins:

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1305187096

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1305187096

Swapping CD oil later and checking high speed handling :)

The weight doesn't surprise me. With the radio box, gearbox and battery boxes gone you lose a lot of weight. My build is XL length and weighs less than a stock flux.

Those tires look great. Do the Axial 40 series wheels have an offset? Looks like they do. I guess all 40 series wheels would have to. I haven't used them before. What does the wheel\tire combo weigh?

That wax looks like blu-tac which is what i use. It ain't pretty but it's fast, easy and doesn't go anywhere once you get it on there.

Depends... not all the tires are the same width. Big Joes are the widest. The new ProLine Tech 5 wheels, otherwise you gotta go with the Axials, don't have any offsets.

Will check the weight of thet tyre/wheel combo a little later. No offset on the rims. They are just wide.

I have a question: All of the numbers supplied in regards to diff oil... we are talking centistrokes here right? and is that the same as WT? It seems the two terms are used randomly in regards to oils.

Ive found some 57000ish centistrokes silicone oil in the lab (its actually for calibrating a viscosity measurement system... but too old so I might as well use some for RC purposes) It flows like thick syrup. the CD feels quite right with that oil... harder to turn but turnable... cant wait! :)

wt seems to be a bastardization of the official centistoke unit and varies between companies. some info here
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/s...8332#post28332

The 100K fluid i used was Venom brand and has 100000 on the bottle with no unit.

The 500K fuild i used was Kyosho brand and has 500000 on the bottle and a lot of japanese looking characters :)

The Ofna diff lock lube has no viscosity rating

Likely you will find the 57K centistoke too light if you're after a more constant 4wd feel.

Btw, even with the 500K and diff lock lube you can still turn the diff by hand, it's just rather stiff.

It might not say offset of the packet but it sure looks like it from the pics. The wheel nuts are almost flush with the outside of the wheel on stock rims but the Axials look to be set in quite a bit.

Man I need more free time! :(

Stock terra pins = 312grams
Masher + Axial rims = 435grams... ouch ;)

The wheel nut sure is set in quite a bit. And Im happy with the width they give the truck.

Great oil info! Tranks! Hope to have time for a test run later today... then I know if the 57K CS oil is ok or not.

How did your test run go?

so-weet!
 

Nixpus> very interesting thread! :surprised: do you have a pic comparing those two wheel combos ? The axial oversize rims are big, but wondering how big the masher tires are? Are you using a brace by the endbell to support the neu motor ?

i read you quoted price on alza's plain tvp panels, and you using a 3mm, that was about 30euro ? cant complain over alza's prices. only wish he'd make some 5mm carbon fiber panels too.

57.000 was too light for sure! Im offloading way too much power on the front wheels.

Ordered some 100k and an extra CD. Then I can have one locked with taggy wax and play with oils in the other.

Might have to find some 500k cs as well :)

Aero, I'll take a picture of the wheels a little later. No support for the 1717 other than the 3 front screws I can access. Will have to see how it turns out... I dont intend to do any crazy jumping with the mashers and lowered shocks. Will run terra pinns and standard shock length if I find the urge to do silly jumps. Havent had endbell support on any of my builds so far its been fine.

You will likely still get a lot of unloading with the 100K.

So what was it like to drive?

Been away on holiday so I have only driven it once on a large car park. The main impression: Compared to last year its a freaking go cart!

Last year it was like driving an elephant on stilts. Damn hard to keep a straight line & the truck would flip over during turns if I wasnt reeeeally carefull.

Due to crappy toe in it was still quite a handfull to keep in a straight line. But I couldn't make it flip over no matter how silly i drove! Instead of flipping over it would loose traction and go into a spin.

Looking so much forward to the weekend! Should have time to judge short shocks vs standard length. Obviously Id prefer standard length... it's a MT after all ;)

Wheels... better late than newer!

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1307626304

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1307626304

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1307626304

And things to come... now with the OK hobby 1/5th controller. Seems ok... havent tested it... just plugged motor in and seen it spin.

KB45 XL is there for size comparison. The ESC is somewhat large.

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1307626304

very interested to see how the 1/5 controller holds up. I was very tempted to get one before i got my ice hv... hope it works out for you!

Sweet build! I don't know why I didn't look here earlier :) great job!!

Had the truck out for the 1st "real" test drive.

Stupid lost his 13T pinion after a few mins... dunno why, but Im having trouble getting the pinion to stick onto the 1717 drive shaft!? After that all I had was a 11T pinion which should give a top speed of about 48mph. Slightly dull... and the motor got a bit hot!

Even with better toe in Im still having a damn hard time doing speed runs on asphalt. Im suspecting the mashers may lack traction?

On grass the truck moves nicely. turning radius is good and I really have to mess up to make it flip over.

I only had a mild slope (into a large draining pond - it was dry) to "jump" off... but the truck flew really nicely. Didnt catch much air but it did fly 1½-2 meters. Going the opposite way the truck would glide nicely through the air until it hit the bottom of the slope.

I did not get to play with shock length since my brother ini law parked his brushless-revo (actually the truck drive like that now) in my trunk... resulting in a broken tie rod!

I have ordered the integy tie rod eliminators now since our custom project is going reeeeeally slow ;)

Also ordered a 15T pinion which should give me 66mph... lets see how that turns out :)

Any input on how to improve asphalt drag race performance is greatly appreciated! Might need other wheels?

How is truck doing now? Made any more changes?

Truth be told I crashed it last fall and didn't feel like disassembling it again... sooo its been sitting in the basement until recently.

Lately I found the urge to fiddle with it again so its been updated a bit more:

Strap me up Scotty!

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1339162227

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1339162355

Its almost a G-Savage :)

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1339162355

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/atta...1&d=1339162355

Center diff is locked 100% This means that instead of unloading the front wheels I unload on all 4 :surprised:

It doesnt wheelie well, doesnt flip over well... its no longer a Savage - its something else.

Thanks for the update. What's the benefit of converting to a CD if you lock it up? Does it change your gearing options also?

Nixpus: Nice work on the straps though I hope they don't get too beaten up underneath.

With the locked center diff it should wheelie great. What do you think might be the problem?

Bmr4life: Benefits of converting to a Center Diff
- gives you flexibilty to change the internal layout of the Savage, usually for the better
- gets away from the troublesome stock slipper and it's mount
- simplifies the center gearing so less potential issues there
- less gearing friction loss
- less weight than a center gearbox
- depending on the individual build it can make the Savage much much easier to work on (my CD drops straight out the bottom with a few screws)

I don't particulary agree on completely locking a CD though I have never tried it myself. I run Ofna diff lock fluid so that I have a at least some end to end shock dissipation. It will be interesting to see how Nixpus's driveline stands up to a locked CD.

Gearing options usually turn out to be similar depending on what spurs are available\fit. Mine is geared close to what the stock gearbox gives.

Thanks for that response. I've been mainly looking into a CD to remove the wheelies and help with flipping during turns.

Removing the wheelies... I've never really understood why ppl want to resolve this. You can prevent wheelies just by learning some trigger control. If you for some reason just want to be able to pull the trigger quickly without care and have the front wheels unload then a CD with thinish fluid is what you want. I put Ofna diff lock fluid in mine so I can wheelie when I want to.

If your rolling over sideways in turns a CD won't help with that. 1/2 offset wheels are the most important thing in sorting that out. Lower profile tires and a little stiffer than stock suspension will also help.

Already done all that. Still need to install my sway bars though.

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...x/IMG_5418.jpg

I think the "problem" is that I have a super low CoG... I shifted all the weight I could as low as possible and I shortened the damper travel so the suspension arms are horizontal. Ive made it into a go-cart... and it behaves like it.

The truck just unloads on all four when I push the trigger hard... its actually a tad dull ;)
Its also the reason why I locked the CD... I thought the truck just unloaded on the front...

Im really happy about most of the truck. It jumps well and it does not roll over unless I do something really silly. If you look at page 6 or so you can see that it is almost as wide as it is long (disregard the bumbers). If you want to avoid roll overs you got to lower/stiffen the suspension and find wheels with less side wall. Extending the wheel base also helps.

The bottom plate where the batteries lie are bend slightly upwards at the edges... I hope it will lessen the wear of the straps :)