Any clues as to what size tires fit these wheels?

I just got notice that he finished making my wheels, and they will ship on Monday. Has anyone had experience with these wheels before? I asked him about the size of the wheels and he sent me a link.
http://www.imexrc.com/servlet/the-Ti...res/Categories
the site just says e/t-maxx size. He said the Jumbo-maxx size will not work. I wonder if they are the old or new Maxx size. I hope that they are the larger new size.
Going back to the wheels, I got the idea from some thread in here.....I think. It was a guy from France and I can't find that thread. Do you know of the one I'm talking about? His Avatar is a picture of him sitting on one of his RC's ( a Bug body) or at least pretending to.

Hmm.... yes the Frenchie! Another build I have stumbled upon that I enjoyed. Here is the build and the Indy wheels are in the there towards the beginning or middle.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22113

Here is a bit from the email I received from Rick (the SPI Racing wheels guy). I asked him what the dimensions were for the F-1 and the Onix wheels and what size tires fit them, and he responded with this...
---------
From SPI -
"Standard Monster Truck size. 3.2 mounting diameter and 2.2 wide. All
of them are the same size. The big thing is the offset. 1-5/16 farther
out than stock. This is what make your truck turn so fast and keeps it
from rolling up on its side."
--------
All the SPI monster truck rims are the same size - 3.2" outer diameter. So after a quick search through Towers stuff, I believe that the 3.2" are the old Maxx and 3.8" are on the new 3905 versions.

Old stock Maxx tires (3.2):
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJG97&P=7

New stock Maxx tires (3.8):
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMJF0&P=7

Thanks, Cliff I appreciate the help. Did you order that gear or gears?
http://www.imexrc.com/servlet/the-Ti...res/Categories
By the way I bought a set of the Imex tires (Claw Dawgs, soft). We will see how they compare to the Proline Trenchers that I have been using.

You'll like the clawdawgs- I run the jumbo version but they are very nice tires- very thick so they wont rip apart even if they balloon ( tape the insides to help reduce that- duct tape or gorilla tape works well ).

Thanks, I look forward getting them.

Gear or gears? - Not sure exactly what you meant there, but I have not ordered any SPI wheels yet, if that was the question. Still weighing out the options (14mm or 17mm :oops:), and awaiting your feedback on the wheels.:intello:
EDIT: Oh, the Hot Bodies diff gears!! (Duh! - still sleepy) Yes, I managed to snag the last pair RC4speed had available and should be getting shipped out this morning. Thank you very much for the help on that one.

The Imex treads look sweet. I have never run Imex before so I can't really comment.

14mm or 17mm, it all just depends on what you choose. The only reason I picked the 14mm is b/c of my UE cvds. Otherwise. I would have gone with 17mm. With 17mm you will have more options.

Yeah, I can't decide. I have another 1/10 scale project running 14mm hubs so I could use them on both. But, your right about the 17mm wheel availability. I am going to wait to order them for now.

Anyone have experience with these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I know the chances of getting a hold of Hardcore racing Ti plates is very difficult.

Has any one seen these guys. There is an article in the Sept 2011 of Radio Control Car Action.
www.inspectorbots.com
The $10,000 dollar E-maxx uses a FLM chassis and Arms, but it also uses Integy parts as well.:no:

I test fitted the motor ,and the position that I have the slipper will not allow me to mount the ESC in the original spot. I will not be able to bolt it down. How important is it to screw it to the chassis? I'm using the MMM 1515y and ESC out of my 3908 Emaxx. It seems that the double sided stick tape did most of the work. What I think I will do is make a mounting plate for the ESC out of an old aluminum skid plate so i can drill and thread the holes exactly where they need to be. Or is this more trouble than it's worth?

Yes do that sounds good,use good double sided tape to stick it down,did you get your CVD"S yet let me no how you go:)

Yes I did. Im waiting to get my aluminium pillow ball retainers. Then I will assemble,and post pics.

The Inspector bots have been a round a while, in one form or another- just another dodgy company selling ~$1000 worth of r/c truck for 10x it's worth; sad thing is government procurement agencies do actually fall for it- no wonder why the US spends $1,000,000,000,000 ( trillion ) on defense every year..

I would use more than servo tape to mount the esc though- the top of the case is prone to popping open in a crash or flip, you need to secure it more carefully with a ziptie or or fashion that mounting plate so you can use the stock plastic esc mount too.

I will, thanks.

Sorry i thought you mend"t the RX,YES do what Suicideneil said and also check the grease in the boots on the CVD"S i am not shore what the deal is with that,you have boots on so it mite be OK :)

New parts.

A few more.

14mm hexs

Very nice wheels what type of tires are you going to use it is going to be one nice truck.
Keep up the good work it pays of in the end good stuff:)

Thanks.

Wow! Those rims look so much better in your pictures. :surprised:
That SPI guy would sell a lot more if he took better pictures for his website.:lol:

How much do they weigh? And are they pretty beefy?
Thanks for posting all of those pictures. Made up my mind now (yes!)

They are much lighter than what I thought they would be. It's hard to tell without the tires mounted. They say they are for racing not bashing, but i'm sure they can take some abuse.

Lifetime warranty, too - in case you do break one!

Yes,just don't take a hammer to them.

How do people post those full page photos that I have seen in this forum? I can only get thumbnails up.

You need to use an img hosting website like photobucket or Imageshack, upload your pictures in a sensible resolution ( 800x600 pixels is fine ) and then copy and paste the IMG tags to your post so that full size pictures show up. If you have a lot of pictures though then it's better maybe to paste the IMG tags for the thumbnails which will take the viewer to the full size images when they click on the picture ( thats what I use on my website to save loading times & to avoid having massive pictures which make you have to scroll sideways just to see them all..

OK, next problem. I was test fitting the hinge pins through all theUE A-Arms this morning they went through all of them except one. In one of the upper A-Arms the middle guide seems to be just a hair off. It does not appear bent. Do I run a drill bit through it knowing that hole will be just a little bit larger? If I do that will it weaken the integrity of the arm?

Dont think you have much other option really- it shouldn't weaken it as such.

Good news I contacted the guy I bought it from and he said that he will exchange it for a good one.

ESC plate made. New a-arm just shipped. Now on to the next item on the list. What are my options as far as getting custom dog bones made? I know Mike can make them, but he is so busy, and I don't know how long it would be until he has a chance to get to them. Are there any other company's that make them? Also I need to know how to measure them. Do I measure to the very ends of the groves in the cups or do I want a little room?

Pin to pin is usually the normal way of measuring, check if Kershawdesigns.com can help- Dan is usually good to deal with. You do want to leave about 1mm at either end of the dogbone/ pin to allow for chassis flex without the dogbones binding up or bending. Once the CD is mounted you can use calipers to check the distance between the drive cups + the depth of the slots for the dogbone pins.

Front drive shaft 83 mm (that is with the 1mm subtraction on each end), and the rear I will need a 131mm bone (minus 1 mm on each end). I found a 83mm Duratrax center dog bone, and a 131 Ofna center dog bone on Ebay both for under 20 dollars. They are on the way.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I'm not sure if that was luck or judgment, but those should work quite nicely :mdr: :yes:

I assure you that it was all luck!!!!

I spoke to Dan at Kershaw Designs and he also has a set that will work so I bought them for only $23.00. I guess that they can be used for back-up.

Well, just got my replacement arm and it is perfect.I think I will try to redo my ESC plate. It is functional, but it's not my best work. I want it to be perfect so I will try again this weekend.

I received the dog bones, and the front shaft(83 mm) has a hair more than 2 mm of play. How much is reasonable?

That should be fine,you can put a Oring in each drive cup to take up the play or a slice of fuel tube it works to and then you are good to go??
Kept the good work going it would be looking like a truck now???