There are instructions included in the kit about trimming the stops. At least there was in mine. But I don't bother, I'll use velcro straps insted.

Do you have the UE / 1/8 scale diffs in those other trucks too?

The problem I found on my Gmaxx is that the UE diff 8mm input shafts are slightly longer that the input shaft on normal stock diffs, so the ends of the dogbones bind up when you tighten the transmission into place. I had to grind a good 1-2mm off each end of the front and rear dogbones so that they weren't binding up anymore and could spin freely.

Sounds like your traxxas cvds have the same issue maybe- you may have to run dogbones or regular plastic shafts instead...

Yep, have the UE 8 spider diffs in all three trucks.

Sounds like the problem you have experienced - I just don't think I can remove any material to make it fit. It would require that I removed something like 5mm or more... I will try to test fit with the FLM dog bones that came with the kit.

Right now I'm just very surprised it doesn't just fit. I had no idea there was a difference from using stock diffs and UE diffs. I wonder if 5151R center driveshafts will fit when using the new FLM Ultimate Hybrid bulks?

Well, I'll be... 'Using the dog bones that comes with the kit it all fits:

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...0/DSC_7929.JPG

So everyone; you shouldn't plan on using Traxxas steel center drive shafts.

Looks great.
 

That rig looks great. I may have to get one of these onc we get home.

I dunno if you noticed, but you need to flip over/around one of your front upper a-arms... :whistle:

Good eye Neil.

That's why we post pictures of our builds, so the senior guys like Neil can point out our mistakes:lol: I think everything looks very good. It could be worse you could put one of your tires on backwards like I did:rofl:

I have FLM hybrids with Ofna gears (same as Ultimate hybrids) and I have the Traxxas Center shafts. I do have the stock Traxxas chassis (shouldn't make a difference) and the lengths are fine. Only issue with them is the pins on the end of the dog bone are smaller than a normal 1/8 dog bone. So the pins have a bit of play in the slots of the 1/8 Diff Cup, resulting in the Diff Cups wearing faster than normal.

It's first thing surprised me seeing gumleguf pics.
First feedback about the bottomplate of this chassis saw on rcm store was the "not enough" work on.

Will it always be provided with "high quality" bottom plate?

thanks for info :yes:

The lower plate is the lower plate - initial pictures were of a working prototype. What is shipping is the finished product. :)

I really hope FLM makes a chassis like this for the e-revo and summit near the same price range.One of the biggest complaints for both e-revo and summit is the size of battery that can be used.

I'd like to see someone do an erevo chassis too- just needs beefing up at the front and rear ends to prevent said ends of the truck from bending during use ( see: KershawDesigns erevo chassis epic fail )- the turnbuckle mod that guys do on the stock chassis works just fine and could be integrated into an aftermarket chassis easily enough ( add a nice little machined mount for the rod end that attaches over the shocktower ).

Here it is next to a G4 build I am doing:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-k...0/P1050204.JPG

Damn way to make us jealous :no: Just kidding looks pretty sick :smile:

I think this Chassis might work even better with Mike's Battery Trays.

I was looking through the store and have a question.

Which one would work best?

Just the plain 50mm x 150mm tray looks close to what I want.

I want something that will hold 50mm wide packs that will bolt to the chassis using the existing holes.

If you're still around this thread, Can you make a recommendation Mike?

Thanks

Ideally I think you would want it with a flat bottom - the 50x150 would have mud guard clearance machined into the bottom unless requested otherwise.

Is there a flat bottom tray in the list that will work well with this?

Just request it with a flat bottom when you place the order ( attach a note ), since they are made to order pretty much if I'm not mistaken.

Just an idea.

If you're having thoughts of adding a Emaxx FLM Chassis tray to the list, I will buy and then follow up here with pictures of my build to help promote the product.

I make them in batches, but it is quite easy to make a tray that I have made previously. Also, I would be happy to make a set of trays specific to the FLM chassis as well - all out of them at the moment, though. If you feel like getting some measurements, I can make the trays to the chassis for you. :)

Mike's trays are awesome :yes:

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x.../P1080169B.jpg

Nice trucks gumleguf :great:

Looks like FLM left plenty of room for packs

I would like my flat bottom trays to be 160mm x 52mm on the inside.

It looks like the Maximum outside side can be up to 175mm x 58mm and still be completely over the aluminum plate.

It's OK if my trays are a little wider on the outside then 58mm. I'm not too worried about impact on the trays, but I'm not sure if 3mm of side would be rigid enough.

I hope this helps.

Let me know what your thoughts are. :yes:

So when is the next battery tray production run? :intello:

WARNING!

You WILL tear up your slipper if you use the original transmission screws without some sort of spacer!

I learned this the hard way.

Which is NOT included or mentioned BTW

Not sure I understand? Could you show a picture or two of the problem?

The 3905 tranny bolts in place from underneath, but since the flm chassis is thinner than the stock plastic one, the bolts will stick up further through the chassis & tranny mounting points; I'm guessing they catch or rub against the back of the spur gear / slipper mechanism?..

Yes, you are correct.

Before I realized what was going on, the screw came through and crushed the backer plate to the slipper.

The top plate being so thin is a concern of mine.

It's only about 1/8" thick to begin with. There's ALOT of material removed so the spur gear will clear. It's VERY thin there.

Where the top plate bolts up front and rear, on the top, additional material has been removed. This makes this stress point less than 1/8" thick.

If the top plate were made from 1/4", it would have negated several issues.

I'm building it and will put some serious torque though it. The Mamba XL and 8S Lipo will make sure of that.

We'll see how it turns out.

There's very little clearance there between the tranny and the slipper.

This slipper is shot.
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...m/DSC08777.jpg

Okay, I see. Well, I noticed that too and just used a shorter screw for that particular hole.

Definitely seems like an oversight on FLMs part, they really should include a paper manual or a note to warn people about any little mods that need doing when installing parts.

Could just include 4 screws with the kit to mount the transmission.

Normally there are 4 spacers included in the kit to fix that. But maybe they removed them ?

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...x/Bushings.jpg

There are some small spacers included with the kit, but they are made for countersunk 3mm screws.

They won't fit the non-counter sunk larger transmission screws.

^^right... Useless post sorry :oops:

Can someone measure their front dogbone that came with this kit and let me know how long it is?

pin center to pin center.

I have lost mine! :cry:

Running 8S, it snapped the yoke off the front differential.

The drive cup and the front dogbone went flying.

I found the drive cup, but not the dog bone.

I need a replacement.

Contact FLM. I'm sure they will sell you a few spare ones.

Everything is ready , that's only remaining tie to the antenna, but that's where? Tell me, or could have a photo! :oops:

Here is my review of the FLM10700 LCG chassis. I have submitted feed back and constructive criticism to FLM using both the contact form on their web site and their direct email address but I haven't heard back from them.

I have emptied maybe 10 packs and drove the chassis primarily on grass and on two or three occasions on gravel. I did not bash the chassis but did do some small jumps on a track.

Spec's on my truck:

- 4s Lipo
- Hobbywing 150 ESC/2000 kv motor
- Hitec 5996TG servo
- Traxxas #2218 rx
- Weight ~11.5 lbs
- Runs about 55 km/h (35 mph)

Videos of the truck running:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMMNwkZjmgc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McQeofeKA8Q (in this video I tested a carbon fiber bottom plate I made myself)

I find that:

1. The chassis is well made and designed. Everything fits together nicely. It drives great!

2. It's perhaps a question of taste but I think the bottom plate is a bit too "simple". I'd love if FLM offered an optional carbon fiber bottom plate or if they'd bent the aluminum bottom plate to strengthen it much like was seen with the GorillaMaxx chassis. I would like to mention though, that I had no issues with using the FLM aluminum bottom plate.

3. The top plate is too thin. This causes the top plate to flex from the power of the servo.

4. The cut out in the chassis around the spur gear is critical! As you can see in the picture below the chassis snapped/broke during my last run and I did not make any huge jumps or bash it hard in any way.

http://rc-forum.dk/gallery/0/3-080912204649-926662.jpeg

http://rc-forum.dk/gallery/0/3-080912204751-953730.jpeg

http://rc-forum.dk/gallery/0/3-08091...0-9581514.jpeg

UPDATE: I received a mail from FLM today and this is the first break they have seen like mine so I could have had some bad luck with my chassis. They mentioned they would revise the design and send me a new top plate if I paid for shipping. Pretty cool, FLM! Thanks. :)