You did it right. Any adhesive with silver would work the best, but then you would not be able to remove it. Just use the compound.

That's a better idea yet. I should have thought to mention it!

Well, if you plan to never remove it, then the adhesive would be fine. But if you never know, don't glue it! The best is to apply, smooth it, stick the heatsink on, and remove the excess with a q-tip around the edges so it doesn't attract dirt. Otherwise, the adhesive will be fine, a tad messy, and really, i would still zip tie it anyway just in case.

Thermal compound stays gooey so you have to find a way to keep them together and not move around. Thermal epoxy is better IMO because it helps thermal conductivity AND keeps it in place. But like mentioned, is permanent.

I permanently attached the heatsink on the bottom of the Quark with Artic Silver Epoxy. http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...l_adhesive.htm . I wanted mine permanently and so far it has stayed on well. There is a picure of it on page 3 of this thread.

thanks for quick replies....what i meant was that my heatsink doesn't stick to the esc that well. I even used the artic silver two-step cleaner. It's been two days since I've applied the compound and it can still easily be moved. Is this normal?

So if you want to change heat sinks cux it ain't working well, you're screwed. But when you have it set to what you need, then use the adhesive....that's my plan anyways, and my 8 cents...


Yes that's normal, i've had mine laying around without a heat on it and it has not even come close to dry! But that's compound, not epoxy or adhesive.

compound is not a glue type, it's compound, so it won't dry really.

thanks for clearing it up. I will give it a try to see how well it works before sticking it permanently or maybe mike should have his heatsinks to offer by then

The AS adhesive is what I use too. It works well too because the heatsink is the same temp (or close) as the ESC. You do have to make sure it's where you want though since it's permanent.

With regular thermal compound you have to be a little careful. For one thing it is oily and tends to attract dust and dirt. Then, if it moves around (which it will unless you have it SOLIDLY mounted), the dirt and stuff will add more small scratches to the surfaces and also reduce the thermal conductivity. Also, after a while, some thermal compounds (like the generic goop at Radioshack), will dry out and not be as effective.

IMO, you shouldn't use reg white compound, use the silver compound. it is much thicker!!! And really, no dirt should get under it at all if you smooth it nicely an take your time.
I can damn near pick my truck up by the controller with the silver compound without zip ties.

Neweuser, I think you misunderstood. There was talk about using thermal compound until the ideal heatsink and mounting location is found. Arctic Silver does make non-adhesive compound which is thicker, but that too will move around unless solidly mounted.

I think we all agree that thermal adhesive is the way to go for the final product.

Actually, i understood correctly. i just mentioned the regular(radio shack) should NEVER be used. And yes, you can use the adhesive to mount in the end result! And yes, as i previous stated you would need to zip tie with compound. i agree with all. LOL

New bulkheads and diff gears should be in today! I plan to put them in over the weekend.
OldSoldier

Lol, just making sure.

OldSoldier: Why wait so long? When I get new toys in the mail, I end up having them installed that night. :)

Ok - now a question for the people who are familiar with the thermal pastes - what is out there that can be used as a conductor for the heat - but will not conduct the electrical current. Im redoing a heatsink for the MGM 160 with a fan option ( sorry for the hijack ) which includes removing the stock heatsink. I dont want any funny stuff happening when i put on the new fan/heatsink on. The stuff on the stock heatsink is white in color and kinda caulk like.

That white stuff doesn't isolate. The top of the case of most SMD fetts are isolated allready.

A past normally doesn't isolate (elctrical), that's what the silicone or mylar isolators are for. With normal transistors, the metal part of the housing is normally electrical connected and needs to be isolated from eachoters in some designs.

Are you going to have those heatsinks machined? feel free to make a 2nd one for me.. :p

here are a few comparisons of the different pastes out there
http://www.techwarelabs.com/reviews/.../index_3.shtml
http://www.techwatch.com.au/reviews/...thermal_paste/
http://www.monster-hardware.com/modu...wcontent&id=90

This form of Artic silver is non conductive
http://compreviews.about.com/cs/cool...rCeramique.htm

I cnc'd one yesterday - i dont like the way it turned out though - i have ordered some different bits for the mill - i will redesign it and when i have one that im happy with - ill see if i can sneak another one out for ya also rene..:dft012:

You da MAN Walter.... :p

Walter is a great guy! Full of info too! Hope the next one turns out for you. Mike said it takes many pratices with the CNC's. I'm hoping after school, i can get one. It would be nice to have!

To add to what Serum has already posted:

While that Ceramique stuff is non-conductive, I would never rely on any paste compound to electrically isolate devices.The layer you are supposed to apply should be VERY thin and actually non-exisitent in some places. Paste is supposed to be used to fill the very small gaps between the mating surfaces, but the non-gaps (bare metal) will and should touch each other.

To HNC's question: There are a lot of common properties between what makes a good electrical conductor and a good thermal conductor. It's hard to get a material that is good at one thing, but not at the other.

HNC: Do you have any pictures of the CNC'd one you made? I'm just curious. :)

It's called Back to School night for my teenage daughter who just started highschool:019:

Like my name says...I'm an OLD soldier :)

Don't feel bad; my daughter started high school last year. Now I'm old. :012:

LOL!

Battle of the Veterans..

Don't feel bad Guys.. At least, we have got eachother.. :p

I think I feel a group hug coming on... wait! Somebody hold my cane.:D

that is good old soldier! i have a few years yet before my son even gets to that point. But i have the gray hairs to say the least to show i have a 5 year old!!!! so i'll hold your cane if you hold my hair piece!

Squee: I did what you said... I got the hybrids from Mike with all the extra stuff. I even got the idler gear. I won't tell you how many all-nighters it took for me to get it all installed. My wife was mad :007: Anyway, Its all working now, but I have not done much testing yet.

For anyone else going brushless, I have one tip: Get all your hop ups at once if you can, and install them all at once so you don't have to strip that E-Maxx down 3 or four times. Its lots of work to get to that idler gear.

By the way, I found that my new front titanium dogbone (thanks Mike) was a few mm too long. I had to use a Dremel to file the rounded ends off each end. I had to file it down to the point where it is flush with the "T" bars at each end of the dog bones. Not sure why. I even had to remove the FLM-supplied rear drive cup that came with the chassis and replace it one that came with my T-Bonz (lightning diffs came with their own drive cups...didn't need the ones from T-Bonz anymore).

Well I see this thread has wandered off topic.:D

The Quark heatsinks are for sale on the RCM site now. Totally worth while upgrade for your quark IMO.

I feel famous. :dft003: I even got a mention.

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=RCM008

You are FAMOUS man!!

Wonder what software you used to design it?!

I think I'll get one for my 9920. It looks like it will fit.

What fans did you use? Make/model would be useful.

Hmmm I wonder....:005:



Any 40mm fan should work. Just about all of them I have seen have a 32mm center to center distance on the mounting holes. If you want to run off the BEC get 5v fans if you want ot run off the packs get 12v fans. Just a matter of preferance. Also, You don't need the reaal thick fans. The 10mm thick ones move plenty of air. Especialy if you use 2 of them.

I used 5v fnas. Got them off ebay. But I think metalman had a link to some that looked nice somewhere in this thread.

Dude that is sweet. You got a pic of it on the motot mount. I was thinking
of something to fit there.

There are pics in the very first post in this tread.

The last couple was the ones i was talking about. I must have forgot. Doh.

Damnit I just thermal epoxied my heatinks to my quark before these became available. I like the clean look of your design. I'll have to pick one up on my next brushless conversion. Congrats on making it into production!

That kind of stuff always seems to happen to me too! AAARGH!

Does it mount on the STOCK motor mount? I guess the holes are the same as the Gorillas.

Yes. Hole spacing is the same.

Great Job! Good to see this kinda stuff come out!

Jeff, I just got the heatsink you designed, great job! It makes my setup so much neater and more stable. I'm embarrased to think of the rigged up mess it was before!