300K !?!? You could have just used clay:005:

ya we used a spatchula to scoop and push it in the diff, and it still unloaded the front tires. :005:

I have a question, the more I look at the chassis the more I doubt that feigao/wanderer (not 540c) and Neu's will not fit. The reason is that the motor wires come right out the back of the motor and the chassis is right there and looks like it might hit them. I am sure the feigao 540c's will fit. Am I wrong?....

Look at the pic:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p.../222322272.jpg

Bye:018:

with rear exit motor wires, the motor could be rotated to clear the chassis. the pletty is much larger than the average motor in length and diameter, so the wires could be snuck next to the motor

Thanks for clearing thing up for me. That chassis makes me want to convert a revo now...

Bye:018:

Brian try kyosho 500,000 that will help out alot. That is what we run in the revo center diff.Ps steve slayen runs 100,000 in the FR diff 500,000 in the center & im not sure what he runs in his rear diff. .

yea, wanted 500K but couldnt locate any. Thanks for the tip though, I will try kyosho.

Oh and as Jeremy pointed out, if the bigmaximum will fit, anything will fit with a ton of room to spare.
the XL Feigao is 74mm long and 35mm wide, the Big max is 80mm long and 43mm wide. This is a waaay bigger motor.

I dont know, but it looks as if the 1950 for instance will have an issue getting the wires up on the chassis since the wires are horizontal.

as long as the motor can be rotated, and the wires arent solid steel coming out of the center of the motor, shouldnt be a problem.

Not to step on anybodies toes here but, if your budget can handle it, the G2R is the best RACE chassis available.

The bomb-proof chassis looks very intersting but without the ability to place packs on either side of the chassis, for weight balance, the G2R has several advantages for racing.

1. The G2R has a very low CG (The lower plate of the G2R is as low as you can go without sacrificing stock ground clearance.) Anything lower than the G2R will probably constantly bottom out on jumps.
2. The G2R has the ability to mount emaxx or tmaxx trannies (As well as the slipperential)
3. The G2R has many motor mount options (center, off center, left, or right)

I like the innovation of the bomb-proof chassis but I think its weak links are the lack or option of a side-by-side pack config and motor mount options. There's definetly potential there though.

I also find it a bit complicating that companies do not have a standard diff fluid weight measurement. I use Mugen diff fluid for all my vehicles. The traxxas 100K fluid seems to be less than the Mugen 10K fluid.
So when I hear people using 250K or 300K it sounds outrageously high. Mugen 10K works well for me on hardpack dirt, I'd probably go to 30K on loose dirt.

well we cant please everyone all the time, and everyone is entitled to his/her opinion.
as for the G2R, it does have its down falls as well.
-for 1 it has no kick or anti squat.
-as far as using an emaxx tranny, thats only an option for the quick and easy build. the emaxx tranny is easy to install, but id far from the ideal tranny for real power
-the g2r has different motor mount options, high, higher or high on the other side
i am not knocking the gmaxx chassis, it is an easy conversion for the general public. we dont go down that road, we prefer to blaze new trails and try new ideas. not all are good ideas, or even functional ideas, lol, but thats what makes this hobby fun for us

What do you consider real power?

we were part of the original test set of the ultramaxx gears and even those failed with some of the dual motor high cell count setups

Hey jeremy,
I admire the invovation and look of this truck but I can't speak to its race potential yet (I'd be happy to review it if you sent me a chassis :028: ). I am sure that if this chassis is setup properly, its a beast on the track. I understand you can't cater to everyone's needs but some of us are needier than others :005: I picked up some A123 packs that need some extra elbow room so thats where my concern come from.

I am an avid racer and am always looking for improvements so I appreciate your work.

I have a few quetions on this truck. You mention kick and squat characteristics of the chassis. How much difference in kick does this chassis have compared to the stock Revo/G2R (I can't quite tell from the pics)? From the pictures, it actually looks like there is kick in the front and rear. Also, is squat tammed by your chassis design or the center diff, or both (I assume the center diff)?

I'll be very interested to see completed pics of this bad boy :017:

real power happens over 2000 watts. Around 2500watts you get some real action.

The reason for no packs on both sides...well its lipo only. Only need one pack, so thats about it. This chassis has a lower CG than the G2R. Dont take this as me trying to sell you one over anything else out there. It makes no difference if you buy one or make your own. I will be the first person to send you to the gorrillas if I dont have what ya want, Mike will hook you up with one. We dont take the easy way out and buy something off the shelf, because we can do it ourself...In our core group off guys workin on this project, we have the absolute elite builders in the industry. Is it perfect? No. None are. If someone can drive my truck and tell me its not balanced, they can have it, period. It doesnt use an e-maxx tranny because honestly we hate them. We have broke every rotating part in them, including the 6mm output shaft. It doesnt have the slipperential, but we dont need or want slipper(not knocking Mikes idea, it looks cool).

The oil weights are all measured by a standard. You will get variances with air bubbles, but 10k is 10K. And yes, 300K sounds high because it is. Turn it upside down and come back the next day and it wont spill out...that kinda thickness. Anything less unloads the front end violently.

I can see why the emaxx trannies don't hold up.
I've always used nitro trannies and haven't had a problem (tmaxx, revo)
I'm not running 2000 watts though, 1200 at the most

How are the front and rear diffs holding up tp that kind of power?

that will have to be seen over time. hopefully mike will have a solution for that soon :004:
here is a snipit of well executed pure throttle control.:027: some say too much power.....nah
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfq-blTeBMg

It would be more impressive it it did that with 10K oil in the centerdiff.. LOL


real power starts at 2000 watts? i personally don't think so; it all depends on the weight of the vehicle.. 2500 watts in a 6 kg heavy truck isn't that much. i personally like a lightweight truck in terms of acceleration/durability. My 2250 wasn't all that impressive. It was simple too heavy. It's nice for high speed runs, but what's the use for a truck that is too heavy and too powerful for it's own drivetrain.

My maxx on 5S it weighted a little over 7lbs, and it was a rocket.. while the batteries 'only' did 1500 watts.. (more than a OS .30, but still, relative low powered for electric)

It's all about controllable power, not about useless power..

Good thing it doesn't use a schulze.... < GRIN >

One thing i must hand the bigmaxximum was it's torque. It's impressive, but it's got this nasty startup cog.. (that magnetic resistance that needs to be overcome.. ) how is that on the mamba-maxx?

I would make the lipo tray interchangeable and available in different sizes.. Future customers would thank you for that. All lipo manufacturers use different sizes.. (which is a true PITA when you design a chassis) i see you used Enerland cells, which is a good reference, but still; make either the batteryholder flexible in size, or make different sizes...

unusable power is way more fun, but yes useless on the track. with the 100k in it it pancaked the front tires and would hardly get forward momentum. gearing at this point is ball park. it would probably need to be tamed down a bit for the track. i am running the maxximum(or minimum as brian calls it) on 4s, that seems a bit more reasonable for power. one thing that brian never has and never will hear is that his trucks are underpowered.:005:

the battery trays are a seperate piece and attatch to the chassis, so they could be made with different pockets for different cells. thats up to brian if he wants to go thru all that.

Okay, i see; an adjustable case would be nice..

So, how is the minimum running on the MM, i thought of using that motor too. But the startup cog with the bigmaxx and the 18.97 is what makes me worry.. A Lehner is much smoother in starting You know, there are actually two types of the plettenbergs, one with a tall fan (usually black/very dark blue in colour, hard to tell from pics) and one with a small fan (blue in colour) i was always curious why this is... Why on earth am i telling this.. arh, maybe i am just curious what type you are using and if it runs cool or not on 4 S.... The maxximum on 4S is more than enough power for a revo IMO. . With good cells (such as the enerlands) it's a bomb.. using 1/8th diffs would actually need thinner oil than the stock diffs, but i also noticed 100K is a tad too thin with 37/13 diffs.. Pancakes indeed.. the 300k peanut butter isn't working miracles either..

Did you break a steel output or a aluminum?
I have did the aluminum myself.
I have put a fair share of power thru an emaxx trans.
I am not stranger to power.

-might be to late did not read all of the posts- but if you like the stock revo chassis go with the extended vantage chassis it is very cool and light and would draw more attention unless you were planning on welding battery trays or something on to the other. My vote is for the gmaxx one but if you do go stock revo id go vantage. Just my opinions sorry if this reply was late.

Broke the steel uppers and lowers, never touched the aluminum.

Serum, with 10K oil in the center diff, I doubt it would get to top speed in 100feet...seriously. It doesnt cogg enough to notice, I can run it 2mph with no issues at all. It runs cold. The battery trays hold a good many of different cells, but not all of them of course. I have no plans of making 20 different trays to accept every combination. Why? No money in it, and it was built and tested for these cells. For the amount of time and materials it takes to make 1 chassis, I can make triple the money in a different industry. Thats the bad thing about RC, you can perfect it and get everything perfect and a work of art....but no one will pay for it. I will make it hold 50s lipo if someone wants to pay for it. :028:

You call it impressive with 300K in the centerdiff that it wheelies like that; i wasn't suggesting to use 10K oil, i said it would be more impressive if it did that with wheelie with 10K..

I am not suggesting to make 20 different trays either, i am suggesting to make 1 tray that is flexible.

It's the startup cog i am talking about with the bigmaxximum; Since it has got a huge magnetic resistance. I know the schulze had a startup cog.. Especially when it was geared rather tall.

this is what the mamba-maxx is capable of on a 6 poler

Hey rene what motor did you use in that vid?

I didnt want a crawler, I wanted speed. I have crawlers already, and the revo is not a good crawler, so I didnt go with a 10 pole outrunner. This one with big maximum doesnt cog any amount worth mentioning. :027:

Look at the vid again serum, its still spinning the front tires way faster than the rears. At 10k, it wouldnt be impressive....it would be retarded. It wouldnt get out of its own way, litterally. I would be money it would take 30 feet of spinning on asphault to even get moving good. The only way it would wheelie is when the front tires would balloon so fast the front end lifts off the ground for a breif second. With 10k, you would swear its front wheel drive. :028:

this one is, it handles at least 6 different batteries, and I am sure you could fit more in it. Need to fit 14 cells in one? Buy a gorilla. This isnt our first BBQ .....:028:

Good to hear you like to bbq.. The bpp truck got me worried for a while..

Viruss has his 4S powered lightning with an even lower CG doing backflips at 30 mph+ on a 1930/8 motor. with 50K oil in the diff..

It's rather hard not to get pancakes on the front tires. pancakes loose grip, due to a small contact area with the track/road. I think it would be wise if they started making threaded tires.

Perhaps i should say 'in my very own opinion it would be more impressive if it did that with 10K oil', In other words; I am personally not impressed by a truck that does backflips with 300K oil in the centerdiff with 2500 watts of power... It's common sense (IMO)

@ leroy; that was a 6pole 1350 Kv motor that was in it.. If you are interested, i have got it laying here.. Doing nothing with it..

A lightning stadium is a whole different creature. We ran 100K on those w/2500watts. It was a simple short video, people asked me to post a video, the camera died when the video ended. The gorilla has no center diff, and is shorter for comparison. You can see in the video, the diff is working...on exit of corners it will still pancake one front tire. I could care less what weight oil it is, I use what works. This truck is only 1700 watts as it sits.

bbq probably isnt the best word to use around a new project like this, as many other projects ended up with some degree of bbq involved....not to mention the ever so calm nomadio girl....overheat:026:

as far as the diff goes, i really dont think its worth the time to discuss how impressive it would be with 10k in it. we all know that damn near any bl setup would pancake like crazy with that.
but i do understand and agree serum that if it can violently flip with 10k in it, then it may be overpowered..:005: ...but i dont see anyone even trying it to see if it would do it.
i know serum has tried many different setups and unique designs, so constructive input would be appreciated and welcomed

Here is a vid of a monster gt mbx center diff and 10k oil in it.
http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...rdiff_0001.jpg

thanks for posting the video, as you can see...not impressive with 10K oil. It will pop the front tires in the air and then lose 70% of power by spinning the rest of the time.

I will get video of some track time to clear everything up, and show off some power. :027:

Well I guess if you are producing real power on the roof.
You are the man. I don't know how you keep traction with tires off the ground.

So if your primary goal is to keep the front tires from spinning and wasting power, why dont you just run a transmision or center spool and tape a brick to the front bumper?

The only issue I see with that one chassis is the motor getting hit if you land a certain way.

The battery being on only once side can be a problem, but if your battery isn't excessively heavy, it can be easily offset by having everything else on the other side.

I don't think one brick is enough jhautz. You might need a few lead bricks to hold down 2500 watts.

You could always try a torsen center diff. The torsen should keep the front wheels from unloading so much.

sorry, I cant drive and do a controllable wheelie,steer, and video it all at the same time. I have no trouble driving it when not recording it. That was actually the only time its ever flipped over backwards, usually just spins. I figured a video of me showing throttle control and not letting it spin/wheelie would be boring, so I went for full power....my bad guys, I can tone it down next time. :005:

spools break, and break parts. It has a transmission. The diff takes alot of the shock off the driveline. Its perfectly set up for my track and driving style. It wont flip over frontwards when hard braking, and doesnt flip over backwards in normal race conditions. I get max power when I need it, where's the downside?

And coolhand, I wasnt implying the truck in the video was slow, but its clearly wasting alot of power. Experiment with heavier oils before you stick with that, you will be much happier. 10K is rediculous for something like that.

LOL, we need to end this useless discussion somehow..

Let's figure out a way to change the resistance of the centerdiff without the need to remove oil.. (thickness of this oil is track related.. ) a torsen diff won't do what an adjustable one can do. Team Magic did put something in their M1 diffs, but i don't think that's a durable solution. It will wear fair quick IMO..

Serpent found a way, which basicly works like a slipper, outside the actual diff, i will post of a pic of this principle later..

10K in a centerdiff makes NO sense at all in an MT.. i was just trying to make clear what would impress me more..

You forgot to include the word 'YET'.. Mike is currently working on a slipperential for that vehicle.

Not trying to put you, or your products down.

Let's be friends and have a group-hug.. I'll be the one in the funny looking costume..

It's hard not to get pancakes in the front, but like i said; we need belted tires..

I posted video for the simple fact is.
You stated the 10k diff oil was just no good.
Yes I know it shifts alot of power to the front wheels.
I know I could go up in diff oil weight.
You can loose or gain power thru a diff by not the weight of the oil
but how much you have in it. If you don't get a diff completely full
the diff will operate and push power to less traction area easier.
I have 30 k oil in my gmaxx and it rides a wheelie like crazy.
I am loosing speed and power for the back bumper is dragging.
Don't worry. That is not my fastest truck.

Thats a good idea. One of the cooler ways to do it is electronically change the oil viscosity, can be done on the fly. It will get to that one day, where you can loosen it for one section of the track.

And yes, I know the gmaxx CAN have a center diff, several already do, wasnt my point. 300K is not locked by any stretch, like the typical Gmaxx which is also shorter.

Coolhand, I cant stress enough how much I didnt mean the truck is not fast, its at the top of the class for sure. I thought you were posting it to show how little power made it to the rear wheels. Those low oil weights are meant for nitro which build power slightly slower and hit slightly softer which greatly affects the oil choice. I can remove the rear driveshaft and still raise the front tires, but whats the point. I like the feel of an almost locked diff, I raced the E-maxx for years, and the feel of losing 70% power just doesnt feel as fun to me. I like the hard accelleration. Anyway...does anyone care this much about diff oil to discuss it this much? I dont, I am done.