the metal pinion wears a lot better on a plastic spur then on a steel spur. If the mesh is not good or the motor mount flexes it will just wear the $5 spur instead of the pinion.

Here's a pic of the mount i used a piece of angle aluminum and use velcro to keep the packs from sliding out and a strap to hold the batteries in it also makes a great chassis brace.:)

I live about 10 min from Hotrod hobbies and about 20min from the sun valley 1/5th scale onroad and monster offroad track. I have ran the CRT.5 at Hotrods track a couple of times but not on a raceday yet hopefully Saturday.:032:

The narrow steel spurs are hard on pinions or have been in the past with brushless motors? a hardened pinion seems to hold up if you have a sturdy mount with no flex. The hardened pinions are more expensive though and depending on the motor shaft Dia. sizes are limmited.:eek:

Do you have the aluminum battery thing screwed up from the bottom of the chassis?

Cheers

Yes the motor mount and battery mount are bolted to the chassis I have seen some people make there battery mount bolt into the existing motor mount holes only but you would be better off drilling a couple of extra holes and using the mount to stiffen the chassis also. :)

I notice that some people sell the motor mount. Does anyone sell the battery mount?

Cheers

Very cool!!

RC_KAOS - most people make their own custom battery mounts. The easiest way to do this would be to take it off another truck like a stock e-maxx chassis or a Twin Force chassis.

have you thought of coming to pegasus on a saturday (they have a crt class)
or to revelations

It's been a couple of years since I have been there one of these days I will get out there? I like Hotrod hobbies it's so close to the house.:)

I just finished up the titanium turnbuckles on the CRT.5 I would highly recomend at least changing the 2 front 3.5x24mm upper turnbuckles I managed to break both of the stock ones the larger 4x23mm Lunsford ones went in no problem.:027:

Wow, you're pretty close to me. Do you happen to go to the Hobby People store in Santa Clarita? A couple of my buddies work there (David and Daniel, brothers).

Yeah I'm in Canyon Country I stop by HP for part's it's the closest hobby shop to the house. I'm thinking about buying a plane I see there having a 5 hour sale tomarrow I'm going to stop by and see if I can find a deal?

I also see they have the XTM 1/7th scale buggy on sale for 340 bucks I have been thinking about trying a brushless conversion on a larger car.:032:

Well if you are looking for some tips, or how it will look at the end... here is the only conversion of it I know of:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...&highlight=xlb

Thanks it looks like a fun project the XLB is huge I'm thinking about pulling the Neu 1515 motor and 2-2s 9000mah pack's I have in my CRT and trying a CC 110hv ESC with a adapter to run the wheel radio and keep the brakes? I just have to decide between a plane or another car decisions decisions.:032: :032:

Can you please give me detailed description of the kyosho spur and what bearing is needed. I am lost on this aspect of the conversion. I think I am trying to make it hard or simply if I got the parts I would see what was needed or not. I am really tryting to get a complete list of things. This way the parts are here for when the mount and power plant arrive. I then would have everything ready to convert it.

Thanks you,
NiCad

Check out Ricemans thread you need a HPI Savage front center shaft and 1/8th scale drive cups http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...ighlight=crt.5

I used Jammin buggy drive cups and rear diff mount so from the spur back to the pinion is 1/8th scale buggy part's with the HPI dogbone. with the wider Kyosho gear your diff is going to be about 1-1.5mm longer and requires relocating the diff holes in the chassis.:( I hear there is someone working on a offset spur so the stock diff holes can be used when who knows? if you want to run the Kyosho gear it works great but needs some mods to fit I'm happy with it when the new spur comes out I will just pick up a new chassis on Ebay for around 10 bucks and go back to the lighter stock set up. :)

The person looking into the plastic spur is not having much luck. Mike is also looking into it, but it's not high on the priority list right now. The good news is that Mike now sells hardened steel pinions from 12T up to 20T (IIRC) in even increments. This will let you use the stock diff with no modifications.

To find the hardened pinions, just go to the gears section of the store and scroll down to the Mod1 5mm bore pinions. The hardened ones are listed in the dropdown list. Don't forget to pick up a 5mm to 1/8" bore adaptor (on the same page) if using a motor with 1/8" shaft.

Could you please elaborate on the side affects of running a hardened steel pinion on the steel spur?

As well what tooth pinion would you recommend for the CRT.5 running a 3s and mamba 5700? I am looking for speeds around 40-45 tops.

Thanks for the help,
NiCad

Also i am unable to locate the adapter for the 5mm to 1/8" pinions.

Sorry, I misspoke in my last post. The bore adaptors are way at the botton of the "RC Monster Parts" page. Sorry about that.

The key to hardened pinions lasting with hardened spurs is no flex in the mount if the mesh changes heat and stress from the metal on metal gears kills the pinions seems to be the conclusion. Start with a 13t pinion that should get you close to what you want.

If anyone is interested the Jammin aluminum upgrade parts are out for the CRT.5 Nitrohouse has them in stock and on Ebay I should have the aluminum steering link and front and rear hubs tomarrow.:005:

Thanks you very much for the info.

Sadly i went to order the mount pinion and reducer. Mount is out of stock. :(

Oh well, like I am in any hurry. LOL

Later,
NiCad

Man these things are sweet! I wonder how it would go with a 6900 on 7-cells!

No prob I see the brushless CRT.5 is getting more popular it is the perfect car for it though. There is a 3pc mount on Ebay also you might check out?

I got a chance to get the new aluminum part's on no more broken rear hubs.:) The 1506 Neu is working great with the Mamba Max ESC no sign of cogging yet.:027:

Any body know of a off road track in or near Hilo Hawaii? I'm going to be there for about a month working on a movie and was thinking of taking the CRT.5 and have some fun while I'm there.:032:

What do you do on a movie?

Those alloy pieces are fantastic looking.

Later,
NiCad

I work in Set Dressing we manufacture move or hang anything that goes into a set furniture,pictures,carpet,electrical,plumbing from interiors of huey's to upside down boats. :027:

What aluminum parts are on it IB?

Sounds like you have a fun job..

Looks like he has the rear uprights and the knuckles. Looks like good cnc stuff.

Sorry, i meant what brand of aluminum parts are on it.

There the Jammin upgrade aluminum part's I got the steering rack and front and rear hubs from www.nitrohouse.com and I found the aluminum ball ends at RC4WD the Titanium turnbuckles are Lunsford. :027:

Thats sweet! Can you put some 2.2 wheels on there?

They are 2.2 wheels. Did you mean something else?

NiCad

Probably means normal truck wheels. The ones that come with the CRT.5 look more like 2.2" buggy wheels or something. The sidewalls aren't as high nor are the tires as wide as normal 2.2's.

Ya put like bow tie t. or something.

Thanks ibjammin. The steering knuckles are still plastic, correct?

The rear 3/16 RC10T&GT wheels bolt right up with a little shorter drive pin on the axel's here's what it look's like with the larger tires compared to the stock tires?

Yes the knuckles are stock. :)

Could somebody please post the part number of Proline wheels that would fit this truck and take on regular 2.2 truck tires? (hex or pin does not matter)

Thank you!
Daf

Have you ran it with those wheels yet? I am wondering how much hotter the esc and motor will get. When I used that size wheels on my zx-5 buggy the esc got real hot, that is part of the reason I sold it and am looking at a crt.5

Any RPM or Pro-Line wheels that will fit the front or rear of an electric Rustler/Stampede should work on it since they're 12mm hexes. Any Pro-Line wheels that fit a T3 or T4 with 3/16" axles will fit if you use a shorter drive pin. Here's some options:

For Hexes:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDNC4&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDNC5&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMV44&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMV46&P=7

For Drive Pins:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFDX1&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDW25&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2986&P=7

The difference between the front and rear versions of the RPM wheels will be how far offset they are.

If you gear it lower when increasing the size of your tires it should help if not solve the temp increase.:018:

So what pinion would you suggest for stock wheels and then what size for the bigger wheels?