Better not talk about ChucK Norris like that. Check this out: http://www.chucknorrisfacts.com/

That one made it to the Favorites list! :lol:

They forgot one: Chuck Norris can successfully divide by zero!

Alright I've realized that my quest for uber acceleration will require tires with uber traction. Does anyone know how to make these fit on a Rustler? Or do you have better suggestions? They can't be more than 3.5" in diameter. I would prefer foam to handle the high speed. Solid rubber would work, too. :mdr:

You should really try the tires I have made for my Rustler. Massive traction without any additional Koford. 2 Sundays ago I was not able to run my Rustler on the San Antonio super sticky dragstrip without flipping over. Too much power with uber traction. I surprised everybody there with my crazy rustler. I was only able to do a sorry 50mph run using half throttle. BTW there are 2 Rustlers in the San Antonio team that do pretty well. Here in Houston we have the ghetto traction surface treatment...aka cheap soda sprayed onto the asphalt. And I have enough traction to wheely the whole 132 feet if I line my truck up right. 5s1p A123 with 8L hacker is a monster.

Which compound did you buy? Do you have to cut the ridges off of the wheels or can you notch the inside of the foam? I don't think I'll have wheelie issues with the reversed transmission. The more traction the better IMO. After that it's throttle control.

I have another set with the outside lips still intact. I just cut the inner ridges out for the foams to fit. After that I just put them on my drill press for trueing and rounding the foam edges. I bought both compounds that RC4less offers. One has more traction then the other....depending where you run on.

I'll only be running it on my street which is comprised entirely of old, gray pavement. I don't know if you saw the earlier posts, but I bought an Align 600XL for the truck. I'm saving up for an EVO25 6s 5000 pack, an MGM 16024 controller, and a UBEC. I'll probably buy 2 sets of the silver compound donuts.
I assume they have more traction since they cost 3 times as much. :lol:

Edit: I just though of a really quick way to true up the foams - Don't practice throttle control! But do make sure your rear camber is at 0 degrees.

I installed the motor last night. It fits great. I did have to put some spacers under the tranny to allow the motor can to clear the chassis, but thats it. There is plenty of room right now for a 20T M1 pinion to mesh with the 40T spur.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...DSC00014-2.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...DSC00013-3.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...DSC00012-3.jpg

I'm hoping I get enough cash for Christmas to cover either the battery ($300) or the controller ($375). That would be sweet.

:surprised::surprised::oh::oh::gasp::gasp::eyes:

Dang thats a big motor lol

Sjesus man...that is on phat motor. Better glue those foams right.

The speed that thing will go, you'd be better off following Thrust SSC's example = steel wheels with no tires.....

Well there's not a lot of friction between steel and pavement so it wouldn't go very fast. :na: There would be a sweet spark show, though.

But yeah I'll be sure I glue the foams well enough so they don't self destruct. Do you think I should put a parachute on the third channel? :rofl:

Thats really not a bad idea. That thing wont be able to stop very well.
Youre also going to need a wheelie bar if you increase the traction to much.
I personally would avoid foam tires on a vehicle like that just because it could probably go through a pair every battery charge. I dont have that kind of money. Its also going to be hard to get rubber tires to stay glued to rims at the speeds those rear tires will reach, so I would use beadlocks of some kind. If you want to deal with the gearing issues, panther maxx sized slicks on maximizer 1/2" off set beadlocks work pretty well. Theyve survived a lot of abuse so far, and they still give a lot of forward thrust when theyre spinning.

I like the Maxx slicks but is it possible to prevent them from balloon so much? I would need a much larger spur to run them. What are my options for spurs other than the Revo stock spurs (36, 38, 40T)? I think something around 46 would be the largest possible M1 gear that would fit. 32P would be acceptable, too.

Yep 46t is the largest that will fit without touching the diff output. You could try the jato spurs, 54, 56, 58t and 32p pinions. The spurs are .8 mod, but they work fine with 32p pinions.

The MGT spurs are supposedly easy to fit on the traxxas slipper, and are mod 1 and available in 46t.
My slicks are belted with duct tape, and really dont balloon at all. It was basically undrivable with unbelted tires.
Because of the maxx driveshafts Im running, the biggest spur I can use is a 44t. I run a 40t because the revo spurs are a direct fit, while the rs4 spurs take a lot of dremeling every time a rock gets in the teeth or a pinion comes loose and chews up a spur gear.

I think I'll go with the Jato 32P stuff. The 58T spur looks to be the same size as a 90T, 48P spur which is the largest that can fit. I'll pick up the 58T and the 56T spurs and a 24T pinion. The Maxx slicks will go on my list, too. I'd like to find some thick, adhesive foam tape to put inside them. Maybe weather stripping or the like.

Do you mean instead of an insert?

Ideally it would be a full size insert with an adhesive backing. But I mean a 1/4" thick hardish foam to really reinforce the tread area in addition to the foam insert in the tire.

That is a good idea, but I would worry about the strength of the tape. The adhesiveness of the tape and the tensile strength of the backing material. Duct tape is pretty strong stuff, so is the fiber reinforced packing tape some people use to belt tires. If you get beadlocks the foam tape is definitely worth a try, though.

I would definitely get beadlocks. Q for you though - what hex adapters did you use on your Rustler? I can't seem to find any 17mm OR 14mm adapters that have a 5mm center hole.

I was looking at the Maximizer 17mm 1/2" offset wheels which I think are the same wheels you use.

Actually that might be an issue for you, I hadnt thought about that. Im using maxx driveshafts with 6mm axles and maximizer 17mm hub adapters. I thought Ive seen 14mm adapters meant for the stampede though.
Those are the exact wheels Im using.
Or you could use these with the non offset wheels.

I saw those Integy adapters. That has to be the stupidest thing ever. Way too much stress on the axle. I can see them snapping off on the first run. You have 6mm axles huh? What do you use for rear bearing carriers? I'd like to keep the metal driveshafts if possible. How about some pics of your rear end? :lol:

Im using stock Jato hub carriers with 6x11 and 6x15 bearings, and some aluminum arms meant for a jato.
Heres some really old pics, but they show what Ive done pretty well:
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...s/S5000206.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h2...s/S5000208.jpg

Youre using RPM rear arms right? Youre probably going to want aluminum with the big rear tires. The arm flex will cause pretty bad wheel hop. The stock jato arms did anyway.
I wouldnt discount the integy adapters already, the maxx wheels will have a lot less offset than wheels meant for a rustler so the center of the contact patch wont be too much further out. It looks like the shorter 2 hubs with the zero off set wheels would be about perfect. With my 1/2" offset wheels and jato arms, the inside of the tires barely clears the outer edge of the body, and I had to trim the fender wells some to make it work. The body is a desert rat meant for a maxx, rustler bodies look stupid on this thing now. My rustler is longer and wider than my 1/8 buggy.

More Jato stuff huh? Are the Jato diff output shafts 5mm? I ask because I saw this MIP Jato CVD kit. Or do you think I can use the MIP Rustler drive cups I already have? I guess the ball on the end of the CVD would need to be the same diameter. If this would all work I'll get the RPM rear arms and the stock Traxxas stub axle carriers. I like the plastic for the weight savings. If it has issues I can upgrade to aluminum later. Did you use the stock length camber links?

Ive read that jato driveshafts dont work on a rustler with jato arms. On the rustler the arm mounts sit outboard of the diff outputs, and I guess on the jato they are about even.
I dont know what the camber links I used are from, I just had them laying around and they worked.

Hmmm. Thanks B15. I'll figure something out.

I took the Rustler out for a spin today. I haven't had a running R/C in so long I had forgotten how fast it already was. Maybe the 6s+600XL will be overkill...:rofl: :no:

I'm using the Rustler hardware for now. RPM arms and the MIP CVD kit. I now have a full complement of Acer ceramic bearings in the tranny and rear axles. If you don't already use ceramic bearings I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THEM! I bought a Top Flight balancer and balanced all four tires. I now highly recommend balancing your tires! I don't know how I was able to control this thing before I did.

Last night I ordered some 5mm M1 pinions from Mike. As soon as I get them I can run the 600XL. I'm gonna use the MaxAmps 4s until I can afford the new 6s pack. That should give me enough time to practice driving in a straight line.

Some current pictures:

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...DSC00017-2.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...DSC00018-2.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...DSC00019-1.jpg http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...DSC00020-2.jpg

I belted the Speed Hawgs with two layers of good quiality duct tape. Oh my what a difference. No ballooning at all, at what appeared to be 45+ Mph. Enough of a traction increase from the taping alone that I could accelerate fast enough to hear a higher tone emanating from the motor before I had to hit the brakes. It's getting faster but I need more space! I still have yet to see the top end on this setup.

Motor temp during this test peaked at 179.3 *F. I need a lower ratio. The motor is revving too high with 22/86 gearing.

Sweet man. Those belted prolines where awesome when I used them as well. They only last me 1 day at a TNT though. Gets expensive quick.

It just looks fast, sat there doing nothing...

Thanks guys. I'll have pics with the 600XL in there as soon as I get the pinions.

Here's a couple body shots for ya. :smile:

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...DSC00042-2.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...DSC00041-1.jpg

sweet paint Nitro. What body is that?

Thanks snellemin. Here's a link to the body. Cheap Canadian Meds Here! :rofl:

And the wing if you choose. FREE Playstation 3 w/1000 Games! Click HERE! :whistle:

Not tempting the spam killer are you!? :p

looks great.

It's kinda funny, cause I use to run the same setup of tires last year. Are you using the soft or hard rubber in the front?

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...r/DSCF1169.jpg

Did I flag myself, Serum? :lol:

Thanks, dirtyal. Snellemin I'm using the hard tires in the front. They don't balloon much at all since they're a harder compound. I have some of the soft compound tires here but they'll have to be taped before they get installed. Otherwise, I see speed-induced backflips in my future.

Cool beans man. I run the hard ones up front as well. Less rolling resistance down the straightaway. I have no need for using donut tires up front.

It LIVES! Everybody get inside and lock your doors! :surprised:

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...d/DSC00053.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...d/DSC00058.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...d/DSC00056.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...d/DSC00055.jpg

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g4...d/DSC00059.jpg

I did a couple burnouts on the basement floor to make sure the rear camber was at 0*. Looking at the perfectly centered wear pattern I'd say it is! The motor runs very well with 20* timing on the MGM. The brakes have to be set hard, and startup time is at 0.39s (the third option). No cogging what-so-ever! I like it. Can't wait to see how it acts with a full 4s pack - when the rain stops. By the time I have enough cash to blow on the 6s pack I should be a pretty good driver. Actually...is it safe to run 6s on a 16016 or do I have to buy a new controller too? Oh well my birthday is coming I suppose I can wait.