Yes, the ofna 51t is Mod1 and is the only spur that I know of that fits the strobe without mods.

Were you getting 1/8th diffs soon? If you are I'd get a 20t pinion, because that will make it a tiny bit faster than 52/17 with maxx diffs. Maybe 21t.
If your not getting 1/8th diffs then a 18t should be good, maybe a 19t. 51/20 with maxx diffs is geared up a fair bit. I can use that with good temps on my 1515 2.5d (1700kv) and 5s. Should be doing basically the same rpm as your 1y (2200kv) on 4s (so same speed also), but I don't know how much lower my temps would be, because of the higher voltage. 51/20 does work ok on my car though.

Got my spur and pinion today 51/20. It was raining with street flooding here today so no results, but I'll post new temps and speeds when I can. Thanks again for the advice.

Well bad news. I could not fit the pinion. At the end of the motor slide I still did not have enough space. Does any one know of a single motor or different motor mount with a wider mount than the Traxxas OE mount? If not I may have to do a little modification on the OE one.

Hmm, good question. All the aftermarket ones I have seen use the same template as the stock item, as it were, so there is no extra adjustability in that department. Its either dremel time, or you could make you own mount from a small sheet of 1/4" aluminum- like this sort of:

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ryan.co...jug/jugg27.JPG
Another one of the Candyman's masterpieces....

Update
 

Funny how I titled this thread "...almost done...". I was actually thinking I was almost done, but now I realize these trucks don't ever "get done". After bashing yesterday on the levee I realized it is time to change my shocks. The Proline PowerStrokes, while are probably the best racing shocks, are to wide for my application and may be are not strong enough either.

The damage:

A sheared off top shock mount screw

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../285650622.jpg

A quick pit stop to turn the shock tower around, reinstall the shocks and then another rounded out lower shock mount:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../285650615.jpg

When I repaired this I noticed that the lower spring retainer had worn a groove in my 3.3 shaft. You can see it near the lower coils of the white spring in both pics.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../285650625.jpg

Don't get me wrong the PowerStrokes are incredible shocks. However, I think until I stop cartwheeling as much :oops: I need a tougher set up.

I did have a blast yesterday. :party:

After about 15 minutes of bashing I got out my camera and shot the following vid. Of course the best jump, a back flip over the levee that landed on all 4 wheels we did not capture. (Kind of like the fish that got away I guess). Sorry so short:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8Hi2c0lWrA :intello:

I'll say one thing, though your driving isnt very graceful, it certainly is fast when you open it up a bit on the throttle. As for the shocks..... per-chance you could find some aluminum caps and rod-end things (for the bottom end) which wouldnt strip out like the plastic ones do? Just a case of finding the right size I guess :/

"Isn't graceful" is being kind:lol:

Most of that was actually my brother-in-law since he could not shoot the vids.:oops:

Well, a truck like the Emaxx is designed for that kind of abuse, and it does make for lots of enjoyment & funny videos.... I dread to think what would happen to the Gmaxx if I did that kinda stuff, would end up a mangled mess of 6061 t6!

That looks like one of my videos with my gmaxx.

Looks like a really fun place to bash. The whole point of having such a strong Maxx is so you can crash. :smile:

:gasp: OMG, that poor e-maxx.
Tip-throttle control can keep the car flying with the wheels towards the ground :yes:. Poor, poor e-maxx...

:yes: I need a ramp to practice. :lol:

Not done yet
 

I just thought I would update this thread. Some new parts began to arrive today:

FLM extended chassis
FLM shock towers

Later this week:

UE SuperShocks
FLM hybrid bulks
Hot Bodies 1/8 diffs

Still to install:

Strobe slipper
Onfa 51t spur
20t pinion

ESC changes:

Turn on freewheeling

Matbe I'll be done after this...:rofl:

I think there was a film named after this build.....

"The neverending story"

:D

I would think that 20T pinion will run a tad hot with the 1515 1/y. I would go 16T personally.

Maybe but with a 52t mod1 Associated gear and a 17t pinion I have not been above 130 degrees.

Odd....what batts are you running? 52 associated on a strobe???

I think he means a MGT 52t spur on the stock slipper clutch.

I have not installed the Strobe yet. MetalMan is correct the 52t is used with stock slipper plates, Associated slipper balls and a heavy duty spring(sprong?) I wasn't sure if that would hold so I got a Strobe with the 51t and a 20t pinion(the 19t were out of stock).

I use two 2s1p TrakPower LiPo batts.

Where did you get your UE shocks, Mark? They were out of stock last time I checked at UE. Your gonna love it even more.

ebay! Had to take a chance. I needed them and UE is out:grrrrrr:

I got my hybrid bulks and HB diffs. I currently have 3.3 shafts. Do you think I should keep the 3.3 shaft or up grade to CVDs?

The HB diff fit perfect in the bulk. It looks like no shimming required. It would be so easy to just shim the pinion, lube and then bolt it together. A cvd upgrade would also end my shock rubbing problem.

On the other hand the 3.3 shafts are inexpensive, light weight and allow for a little give in my drive train. I would have to take the diff apart to put in the 3.3 output shafts and change out my shocks.

So what would you all advise?

if you want 3.3 CVDS that work with your vehicle i suggest you give the MIP 3.3 ones a try. The old mip ones have broken for some but the new ones are much beefier than the old ones. I am running hybrids and mips and the same motor combo as you and for the little bit i ran them they held up fine. I personally would stay with the sliders. they are cheaper, just as strong, gives some give(but with the new diffs it is not totally necessary), and they work right now, How ever if the sliders are rubbing and wearing down i would suggest maybe going the CVDS route. If you can get your hands on some UE ones that is the best option.

If you are looking for a good monster GT spur, i got a white machined one from delrin for about 12 bucks including shipping.

Which size UE will fit my 3.3 E-Maxx?

Thanks but with this upgrade I'll be putting the strobe on:party:

None...You won't be able to use your 3.3 knuckles with UE cvd's. I would stick with the sliders, get some aluminum knuckles from RD Racing, and get there 8mm axle kit as well...

Strobe is the best (un)available option..

Thanks for the advice guys.

I thought I would update this thread. Here is a vid of the last bash before I upgrade to:

FLM hybrid bulks
FLM extended chassis
Hot Body Lightening 1/8 diffs
Traxxas cvds
4 UE SuperShocks
Strobe slipper
Tony's hardened steel screws
New skid plates

No jumps this time:oops::oh:

It was hard to shoot, steer and throttle all with two hands. Only 2 of those passes are WOT

Still almost done

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well I finally got some time between all the holidays and family stuff to do some wrenching.

New upgrades installed:
Hot bodies 1/8 diffs
FLM Hybrid bulks
FLM extended chassis
FLM shock towers
4 SuperMaxx shocks
Traxxas CVDs

Upgrades to be installed:
Proline steering servo saver
Strobe slipper
maybe another 4 SuperMaxx shocks

When I was doing the dissassemble I found one of the chassis braces was broken. Who knew? I have also resolved to go buy a good set of hex drivers because those little allen wrenches kill your fingers.:oops:

Hopefully this weekend I can get the servo saver in, put in the receiver, put on the front skid plate, put on the bumpers, attach my batteries and BASH!!!:party:

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../295204000.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../295203998.jpg

I'm having the same problem. I think i will go with CVD's or modify the spring perch. The perch's I have are revo ones which are more narrow, which rubs much less than the ones that came with the prolines. Mine are not grooved nearly as much as yours, but are showing signs of wear.

I was going to try that but the cvds are not long enough. See below. So I will go back to 3.3 shafts and SuperShocks. The SuperShocks are thinner.

Diameter measured at the springs:
SuperShocks 19 mm
PowerStrokes 21.5mm

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../295570302.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL143.../295570300.jpg

What part # are those cvd's? Just asking cause I posted on a different thread about part #'s.

You need the 5451R.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...FVSEARCH=5451R

Got it. I guess your not using them because your HB diff outputs are not compatible?

To solve the problem, you can just buy the diff output conversions off Mike (the ones for the Revo 1/8 diffs). This will allow you to use the Traxxas brand outdrive cup, which is long enough to work with the CVD's.

Problem solved.

Didn't know he had those. I do have the stub out drives which I was going to use and put the 3.3s back on.

Which ones hmmm..........

Have any idea what your top speed is on the 4s? Does 4s leave you wishing for more? Or is it plenty outta control and any more cells would be to undrivable?

On that note, if you were going to try a 5s, how would you want to configure the battery layout in the emaxx chassis?

Depends much on the motor you use- the 1515 1y is perfect for 4s, and 5s would be crazy fast + run a bit warmer I imagine. Battery layout would probably look like a 3s pack on one side of the chassis, and a 2s on the other, wired in series.