Does anyone have a list of the major manfactures that run a mod1 gear in the center diff? Im looking to either fabricate a chasis around a center diff, or use the FLM Chassis and add a center diff plate. Any suggestions?

Your best bet is a kyosho 44t plactic spur, and a diff cup from an ofna hyper, Hot bodies, or kyosho. They all fit the same way, and can use the same spur, internals etc.

Linc hit the nail on the head, MOST if not all 1/8th diffs are very similar if not interchangeable...The ones that I know off hand that are not are Sportwerks/Losi are a bit more narrow then others.

hey its me, im after a few of the compnets that you have used in your build. The first is the cross beams that you have? It looks to me like they came off a gmaxx chassis. The other is the main chassis plate. Im assuming that its home made. If so what did you use to cut it? And what thickness is the metal?

Cross beams? You mean the chassis braces/rails- they are upside down FLM extended chassis braces.

rc-monster center diff/motor mount for flm e-maxx chassis, sorry for the crappy pics

Any idea if i can buy just thoose from FLM?

I dont believe so- you would have to email FLM and ask pretty-please to buy just them on their own, separate from the chassis.

Paralyzed- did you get them from Mike?

suicide- yes, custom r/c monster! ssspconcepts and I are the only ones with one so far, he has much better pics in the customer feedback and testimonial section on the first page under the heading: RC Monster direct drive unit for FLM E-Maxx

WOW thats friken sweet!

Neil is right on everything :)

The chassis was cut with a jigsaw/file and a DA.

got some more parts in :) The motors are just for a stand in till I get the 7XL's from tekno :) Also got some flight power 4S 25C 5000 coming in from a good friend!!
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Looking good!

Thanks man!

Nice Job.
 

Hey man great job:yes:. Your efforts are really begining to show:intello:. That is a very professional looking rig for something being made at home with some simple handtools:yipi:. That is the kind of thing that a lot of us would like to manufacture, and having this is a great inspiration to get us going:party:. Thanks for your work and for the posts to get us off of our asses:oops:. Keep it up "its Me". That thing is going to be the talk of the town when you get it running. We can't wait to see the power plant that you end up installing to push it around the yard. I am sure that you will go through some growing pains trying to get the right setup to satisfy your own desires. Great work Man.

Man that looks awesome! Im defiantly going to start really planning my rig out. Keep up the good work man!

that looks better than any stock machine i've seen. i saw your video of your twin nitro, i can't wait to see video of your twin brushless, you do awesome work!

I hate to ask all the questions but im unsure what the tapered 1/2" PVC you used to fill the gap in the bulks with looks like. Was it a PVC Coupler?

[QUOTE=its me;258452]Love came today :)




















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Thank you man! thats a huge compliment :oops:

You and me both!! I honestly cant wait to get this thing going :)

Yup thats all it is! dont be afraid to ask questions man, ask as many as you possible can!! I started this thread to help every one who is looking for a cheap diff option for there T/E maxx's.

Man that was eaiser than i thought it was gonna be. :yipi:
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I ended up needing to being the bluks down a little inside the mounting ring but i think im going to run the plastics for now anyways. my next quest is to get a chassis started. Anyone know what length i should be shooting for, im thinking around 12" between the lower part of the bluks? I'm going to order some 6061 aluminum in 12"x24" sheets thats 3/16" thick. Any suggestions on the chassis?

Tanks for all the help man!

P.S. Where did you get the metal plate that you used for the chassis? and What thickness is it?

Yup, its super easy to do :). My chassis is made out of 3MM 7075 and were I got it from was a local machine shop.

Looks like no one in town is going to have the 7075, or even 6061, i think im going to go ahed and order a 12x24" plate from online. I got a losi eight center diff and im going to order the mount and 1/8 diff adapters from mike this week. Speaking of which i emailed him about getting me some of those FLM chassis braces and i haven't heard a peep back yet, anyone know if he's around?

Also its me what shocks are those that you're using? And how do you have the revo arms hooked up on the maxx bulkheads. Im assuming that you shaved the arms to fit the bulks.

Mike is always busy but will get back to you. Reminders seem to help him too, I wouldn't bug him more than once every other day or so. He gets all kinds of e-mails from yahoos and dreamers so multiple requests help him know you're serious. Be patient, his help is worth the wait. If you're making a custom length chassis anyway, why not use losi driveshafts and skip the 1/8 adapters? You could use two fronts, two rears, or a front and a rear for three length choices. Just a thought. L8R

Nope, ive shaved the bulks them selves. Even if I dont keep them like this shaving the bulk is still very useful to me :) On a stock arm I can change the anti squat and adjust the kick up.

Ok so it looks like the eight t center diff i put together is leaking. Any suggestions on why this could be happening? Looks like its leaking from the gear side output. Any suggestions on how to fill/how to seal these properly.

Ok so i cleaned it off this morning and put it gear side down to see if it was leaking. It was dry when i came home so it looks like the diff oil got in the screw holes an just leaked out. Any suggestions on what to grease the ring and pinions with?

Grease would be good.... :whistle:

I like tamiya ceramic grease, or there is auto-motive grease you can use. There is also that gorilla-snawt stuff on ebay, but I dunno what is specific purpose is...

lol i know that but what i meant is any preferences. I use red automotive grease on my maxx diffs so i think ill stick to that.

I am not sure, I only use grease in my pinion to ring gear. Spur to pinion I run dry.

Thats what i was referring to is the ring to pinion gears, regardless, i just made an order from mike with all the necessary parts for the diffs and the center diff mount. Im hopping to have a rolling chassis this weekend.

Sorry if it has already been posted. (I did read through the whole thread) What ratio are these diffs and how would they change my speed? I currently have HPI diffs in an FLM hybrid bulk?

The diffs are 11/45 though im uncertain if they will fit in the FLM bulkless?!?!?! They are a bit more narrow then my jammin diffs.

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thanks nick for the carbon man!!! cutting this shit is easy but **** me symmetry is hard to do

I have been charger shopping and came across a dilemma... I was looking at the EOS 0610 duo and really liked it but for the future I want to be able to balance/charge 12S (4Sx3 MOD MANS TC4 made me drooooool and now I want to build mines) and am unsure if this charger can do it.. Would I be better off getting the EOS 1210 charger with balancer? Or do you guys recommend another charger for this task?

Options.
 

Here is the way I try to look at situations like your's. If there is a chance that I may need the best later on down the line, then why waste your money buying something that you will only have to sell later to get what you really want in the first place. Go for the EOS-1210 dual charger with built in balancers, because you will probably end up buying later on anyway. As long as you have the extra money and con manage it right now, why wait.

OH didnt know they had a 1210 duo only duo Ive found was the E0610? would you happen to have a link?

http://www.allerc.com/index.php?cPat...ba8c5f9b7c427f

On that page, scroll down a little. I've never seen so many chargers and cable adaptors etc- should have all that you need.

Hey it's me, what did the length of your chassis end up being? And What shocks are you using?