Thanx Alien! Me and the dadster cut the CF with his water pumping tile saw. Like butter and waiter please hold the fray! This stuff from FFRC is saweet.

Sweet!!

I'm nervous about the shock towers! Its the holes! How will I ever get that right?

Have a look at this Zack 'CF parts (vid)'... one of the simplest and neatest tricks for cutting carbon...

Yeah that how I'll do it. I'm buying some very short Nova towers from Chad then I'm going to bolt and space them together to the CF then let the dremel do the rest just like MisterCrash showed us! Great. Oh and of course I'll put wing mount holes in.

I am doing a total rebuild of the truck and I went to open my CCNeu for the first time to inspect the bearing and I found this stuff on the ends of the rotor. Umm look...VVV what is it? Its good right?

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...100_1926-1.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1931.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1930.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1924.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1932.jpg
Here is what it replaced. Novak HVMAXX rotor.

Its solid. Temps are always under 150. Its been a great performer for a year and a half. Running it at least twice a every week with the exception of a few months where I was really busy or away. It pushes this truck around like a rag doll of course, no surprise. It is the motor of choice since its apperance.

Also how do I remove the bearing on the pinion side?

Zack, I will get those towers out tomorrow...

What exactly are you going to be doing with them, and carbon-fiber...I am confused? Are the UE towers too tall or something?

PM explain about the CF of course.

Guys, what diffs will fit in between these GS Storm diff braces?

Pretty much all of them...the GS Storm diffs are "full-size", as it were, where diffs like the Kyosho and Hot Bodies diffs are "small". If you want to run one of the smaller diffs, all you have to do is shim it to fit.

That stuff on the rotor looks like epoxy, its just used to balance it to prevent vibrations ( like wheel balancing ).

If you unscrew the front of the motor, you should be able to just tap out the pinion ( may be glued in place ).

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1938.jpg
UE Titanium! I'll never run out of these, got them all for $35 shipped from a great member on UE.

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1936.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1935.jpg
Just kinda missing around... I'll probably never run this way. Its a neat concept though.

The Ultralites will go back in this week! I think I now know what broke the unbreakable 8 spider diffs... I'll post up later this week or next.

-Zack

...score!!

Zack, you beat me to that hingepin lot. I was drooling all over them but waited too long to pull the trigger...

The thing is, you won't ever *need* any of them, because the ones you are running will never bend or break! :)

I've bent and broken titanium hingepins before... Broke the UE Widetrac arm it was holdin on too... Damn grindrails at the skate park!

Were the Ti Hingepins you bent UE Ti Hingepins? I swear that, even though Lunsford & UE both use 6AL-4V Titanium, for some reason the UE Ti Hingepins are just stronger and more durable than the Lunsfords, or any other brand...it's weird, but I have experienced it. I have bent and snapped Ti Hingepins from Lunsford, Hardcore, & GPM, but have never even bent a UE Ti Hingepin...and like you did, I broke the end off of a UE Racer-X Front Lower A-Arm (where the hingepin goes through) during a hard crash, but the UE Ti Hingepin was still perfectly straight!

UE Ti Hingepins are Bomb-Proof, heh!