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Just ran my muggy today. Had to stop after about 15 minutes because a rear susp.arm broke...
I ran it with lutach's 10s esc on 8s and a medusa 1300kv 60mm.... geared 12/48 (approx.40mph). Outside temp was 26.7f / -3c. I have a spektrum dx3s so I measured the motor temp with the telemetry function and according to the dx3s the max motor temp was 113f / 45c. The muggy weighs 12.3lbs / 5.6kgs. I really love the way this combo handles the muggy. It does wheelies from startup, doesn't wheely much more after that. Very controllable power. |
Here is my 80mm squeezed into my E-Revo, and a extra pinion on the rear output just for fun.[IMG]http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...d/DSC04650.jpg[/IMG]
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That is not an insignificant sized motor... :eyes:
I think I'll stick a propadaptor on the rear shaft of mine, then paint it too look like one of those hypno-disc spinning things as it runs... |
Humm would a small fan fit on the rear shaft? (pulling heat out of it)
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seems to me that would cause alot of unneeded drag on the motor and cause more heat |
I'm trying to figure out the gearing for my D8 buggy. I'm using the 60mm 2000kv motor. On 4s I had it geared 15/48, the buggy uses truggy gearing in the diffs (43/10). It was good like that, 20 minutes run time but a little hot. Temps like that were right at 170-174. Could use a little more speed.
Today I wanted to try 5s. So I geared it 13/48, got a little hotter around 180. Next I tried a 16 tooth pinion, ran it about five minutes and checked it, temp ok. Ran another five minutes and it was right at 190. Ok so 16 is over geared, but is the 13 under geared? Or should I try 12, or go back to 15? Ordered the heatsink, but is that really going to make a difference? What would a 45 tooth spur do with 13 or 12 pinion or even the 15? Batteries used are Polyquest 4s 6000mah and Hyperion 5s 4350 25c. ESC MMM v3. Batteries and ESC are running warm at best, it's just the motor getting hot. I'm thinking I'm probably best off using the heatsink and the 4s 15/48 setup. Just wanted a little more top end. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. |
If the motor is running hot its genrally a sign of undergearing as the motor is revving too much, but sometimes it can be caused by excessive over-gearing causing too much current draw due to the large load. I dunno what to say really, if you can gear it down even further and see what that does for the temps maybe. All this is assuming there isnt any outside issue like binding in the drivetrain or what not- take a look at your esc settings and lower the timging and start power if possible... :neutral:
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Think in the morning I'll head up to the track. Try 12/48, 13/45, 15/45, 12/45. According to the calculator 12/45 would give me the little more top end I'm looking for.
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Was today on a track with my CEN Matrix bl with medusa 70mm 2300kv. 4s Zippy and 13/stock spur gearing. The motor is pretty great, got alot more torque than some china motor. Also I got nice 20min run and didnt even cut-off yet but was going slower so i stopped.
I had friend's datalogger on it, but dont have the diagrams yet, ill post them later. Anyways peak amps were below 100A and average current just below 10A which is very nice IMO. Peak power was 11xx W. After the 20min run on track the motor was warm but not hot, even my battery was hotter. |
What's the timing set at on your ESC?
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I would say define hot, but given the great numbers I doubt its anything to worry about much. If you havent got one already, pick up a cheap IR temp gun to see how your set up does after a run- no higher than 180*F for the motor, and ~120-130*F for the lipos.
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I have the tekno rc motor mount with a fan on it. Outside theres no need for then fan since there's -11C (12F). :mdr: But on the track its good to have. |
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