That's fine as long as the cap you have is a low-ESR type or it might get hotter than you'd expect...

I got these, 3 of them actually...

Bye:018:

cemetary gates: They should work alright, if they are Low-esr, but I don't know of any, if any low-esr caps that have a running temp of only 85c. The more caps you add, the lower the operating temp they will have, as long as they are low-esr type.

BliPoRaceR: That is the ideal way to mount caps yes, but like AAngel said, it's too exposed for my tastes. The way AAngel mounted his caps on his MM, and Quark is more what I like, and the resistance from adding that little bit of wire is minimal. But you sure would want to keep the caps on the pcb (stock).

Looks like it would work very well though.

AAngel: If you do the mod, you won't likely be able to take it off the FET's again, maybe the case though. I am going to get a FET clamp machined first for now, until I get the case machined (and finalized). I'll use one of the heat sinks I have and mount it to it.

Oh, yeah, I don't think those are low-esr caps. If I were you, I would not install them, they will most likely blow out and spill electrolyte all over your esc, and possibly damage it as well. sorry.

ahh poop.....

I would ask Cartwheels if he has any of the ones he bought left- they are the realdeal good quality ones.

zpb, I did do the mod, but it is reversible. I've gotten the AA loose before, even from smt chips.

I wonder if there is anything on the controller that would be hurt by acetone. If not, that would be a good way of weakening the bond of the AA. I've used it to separate parts before. A good soaking in acetone overnight should do the trick.

The heat build up of the top set of FETs is still weighing on my mind. I'm going to have to wait and see how it runs. If the mod works as well for me as it has for everyone else, I should be OK.

As far as the Neu goes, I was hoping to hear the good ole "we've shipped you a new one already." Or better yet, "we are out of 1512s, how about a 1515 1Y or 2.5D." LOL

What epoxy did you use then?

The heat build up on the tep FET's... like I said, any power bursts will have a larger temp differential than the average temp difference, so higher thermal transfer the better. But it is harder to do the top set i guess. The best way would to just use the case I designed really. You just apply thermal paste, and slide in on and clamp her down, there goes all heat sources down the sink. :005: HEAT sink that is.

LOL.

I used AA epoxy.

Ahh!
 

Don't tell me I bought the wrong thing again!

I bought this to bond the heatsink to my quark and to do the thermal mod to it. Please don't tell me that this stuff wont dry! I'm not doing good today...

Bye

CG......... I'm so sorry. :002:

So... since this stuff wont dry, can I just blast it off with circuit board cleaner?

Bye:002:

You can just wipe it off and clean up with some denatured alchohol. I'd also stay away from anything with silver in it. The Arctic Alumina that many of us use is ceramic based and won't conduct or capacitate (is that a word? LOL).

oh, you already applied it... then yes use 99% alcohol then with a cotton swab, or Q-tip, and get it clean, clean, clean. Keep rubbing until your cotton swab (keep replacing with clean one) is clear and NO sign of grey in it. Try and not get anything onto the FET's pins.

I am going to clean out my quark case and use it as the cap bank, and maybe use some AA i have to attach it to the case, if not CA glue.

I can't find any copper buss bar or anything, and I guess you can't really solder to aluminum, I might have to use 12Ga wire then. I am going to use 6 caps.

You can freeze the ESC to make the epoxy brittle enough to pop off. I usually put the whole ESC in the freezer for about 20 minutes and then gently twist and/or gently pry the sink off. However, there is a real chance that you could damage FETs doing this, so do it at your own risk. I've done this to two Quarks and one MM with no issues whatsoever.

But really, why would you take it off once you do it?