This is the first time I have used this battery extensively. The battery just took 6600mah!! It took 2 hours to get there and is at 16.8 volts. Its sick! The battery is a 6500 G3 35c Hyperion. Its crazy!

I fixed the RX wires with tape. lol Temporary.
The truck is so fast and controllable.
I have noticed that when I really get on it while turning away from the battery side the truck gets less turn. So it does have some effect while on the ground.

That is all,
Zack

Balance Charged? Could be why it took more mah and 2 hours to charge...

What kind of TX you have? Just set endpoints a bit higher to the shorter throw side....

Yeah but I'm not complaining. I was actually pleased. Hyperion batteries are beast. This is the first battery I have ever had to take over the labeled mah.

Its not like that. The weight of the battery is what is causing it. It turns great at all speeds but you can tell it takes alittle longer for the whole truck to change direction because the battery on the one side when going really fast. I may not be making any sense. It really is a mute issue the problem may pronounce its self while in flight though. We'll see.

-Zack

He built some great trucks indeed. I took a good look at his Silverback build while I was getting my G3 done.
And off course the whole 100MPH story made for some excellent reading:yipi:

I want the lower shock towers to get the body lower on the truck, would go with shorter shocks off course.

Sorry, but what kind of outdrives are the ones from UE?
Are they regular diff outdrives?
Or are they a combination of outdrife shafts and some sort of drive cups?
I'm wondering, because I've read several times that the traxxas shafts would be too short for use with the regular 1/8 diff outdrives.
But no truetrac for me, still have my flextek arms:yes:

Yeah. I hope you find some.

I'm using the UE outdrives that are attached inside the diff. Its the small cup 6mm instead of 8mm I think. It fits the Trx shafts no like a glove. What I explained to you is correct. People say it doesn't work because they jack it up and it bends. You get plenty of travel still just be careful. Nice, Flextek.

-Zack

I used traxxas cut stub shafts and the stock cups in the front with the pillowball in a little farther and I used the longer e revo cups in the back with the truetracks. I am not sure if you need to do this with flextek because you can just scew the pb in more.

Do you guys know of any mud guards that would fit this Chassis?

Thanks,
Zack

Same here... With LST diffs but same concept...The stock Traxxas cups that come with the CVDs are pretty good. I have my suspension jacked almost maxed out and the cvds still sit well within the drive cups... But I do like my Pillowballs screwed in just to about touch the arm when the servo is full throw...:smile:

I allways had the impression the TRX shafts would be too short in combination with regular diff outdrives.
I'll keep this in mind if my plans for the X2 CRT shafts shouldn't work...


So, Zack, where is that video?:party:

I just thought about this I'm having to charge at like 1/2C. Thats why it takes so long.

A video isn't far off. I ran 6600mah out today. Zero Hiccups. I Alot of fun. I have the best places to run. Its like an RC Paradise. Lots of wide open 45MPH runs. The highest temperature I recorded was 139F on the motor. The ESC never got higher than 89F. The battery topped at 86F. My servo hit 84F though.

I've never been happier with the truck. I've put alot of work into it.

I only meant that, unless the cells are perfectly balanced. It will always show a bit mor Mah going in on the charger than the actual battery is sucking in... Ex. I charged my battery yesterday. It wasnt balanced perfect when charging ended. So I let it totally balance out. and threw it back on the charger. The battery took in 560mah more...

Think about it like this: Say the charger is charging at 5amps. While the Balancer is working at ~650mah to balance the cells. So after an hour if the charger displays says it put in 5000mah, in reality it only put closer to ~4350mah...

Thats what I meant earlier.

I am glad to hear that is took a beating and kept ticking! :lol: Thats what it is all about!

Ah. I see. When I get more springs I'll be done.

This is an old pic

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1789.jpg

I'm thinking about cutting the rear New Era Titanium skid plate down to the bulk to shave weight. What do you think? Since the wing is there it really can't serve much of a purpose. Without the wing it is necessary with the wing it is just dead weight. I'll always have a wing. I think New Era still has this rear plate. Cut it or not?

Did you ever bent one of those Fastlane A-Arms?

Vic

Not yet. It really hard to. I had a pretty bad landing about 3 months ago on the right front wheel the only damage was one broke off pivot ball and a warped TRX carrier. No damage to the arm.

So what do you guys think should I cut the rear skid down/off?