If you hop over to my website, I have detailed pics in the TXT-1 and Gmaxx sections of the tranny being converted to single speed, both with the full tranny still, and the gmaxx single speed conversion.

i looked around and only found this pic.

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...llaMaxx/83.jpg

is there detailed instructions anywhere? sorry i couldnt find them

The diffs in the red alum cases from a while back (your ebay link in your posting #21) - just stock maxx diff parts assembled in a set of alum diff cases - the combo bulks you picked up will be much better than those, obviously.

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/instructions.shtml Go down 11 or 12 items to the Ultralites and click on V1.5 - that opens a pdf - UEs build instructions. Save it to your PC, print it or whatever you want to do.

sweet thanks!

Bloody useless.... :wink:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...lespeedmod.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...earboxopen.jpg

Just install the coupler into the 2nd gear... gear, and remove the drive dog and shifter fork. Leave the 1st gear-gear in place, or use 3 bearings as a spacer to prevent the whole output shaft from sliding back & forth inside the tranny case. $18 for the coupler I believe, and no other modifications required.

thanks for the pics bro!!


i have some updates on progress. new combo bulks installed. same issue. i notice if i unplugged everything from the motor and tried it a few times, the motor would cogg too.

some pics of the new combo bulks..

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/DSC02136.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/DSC02137.jpg
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...0/DSC02138.jpg

and here is the video of my problem.. again, as you can see it is cogging while not connected to anything.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i108.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid108.photobucket.com/albums/n9/tha5150/MOV02150.flv">

You have either a blown phase in your ESC or motor. Could be a short or cold solder joint somewhere too.

i will go home today and re solder the 3 wires and pray that fixes it. :diablo: if not, how to i figure out if it is the MMM or the Motor?

If it was a blown phase, you'd think you'd have trouble ALL the time. Seems to cogg then run right. Yeah, at least you can make sure all your connections are ok...

Brian, thanks for your input.

if i go home, solder the bullets, and the problem persist.... how can i rule out the MMM or Motor?

Try a different motor- if it still cogs, then the esc or wiring is at fault. If the problem goes away, you know there is something up inside the motor.

all i have is an EVX and 1 Titan. the other is blown.

Tha,
Where you located? Maybe one of us is close and you can try a temp swap to see if it is motor or ESC.

Thread steal :) If anybody knows of a good deal for UE or equivilent Diff let me know I blew my rear, I need something that will standup to a Medusa 36 60 1600 V2

PM please so that THA can have his thread back

Highflier

lol, i dont mind the stealing. lol.

i just got the FLM ones you saw in this post on ebay with stock diffs. but my thoughts are this. UE is polished, FLM is not. same everything else. just get the FLM combo bulks for 120 new and be happy with them.. just my $0.02... mine look awsome.

Yea but I was looking for a deal. 120 + 40 + 40 ish for the internals Now I am up in the several hundred range. Almost makes me think I should bail and get a new brushless ready e-revo or e-maxx

You never did mentoin what city your in. If your local to me I would be happy to have you stop by and trouble shoot it, I have a few parts that we could use as a test.


Highflier