Patrick,

its not that I want the wires changed. I am actually happy with my mamba monster. flips my heavy Emaxx on command with 80% punch control, but still runs cool and smooth. Knock on Wood.

My concern is that if for some reason I need new wires for another project, I can just solder some up, or plug them in as what I could do with the unit that has the plugs.

Thats pretty much it. I think its great you guys are getting on these issues.


Now, just need a ROAR legal brushless system from you and I am set! :)

Got it. :) The only reason we released the MMM with wires was because we didn't have the SMT bullets ready yet...

About ROAR -- well, we'll see. There are VERY serious issues with the ROAR rules.

Yeah, I didn't think it would be easy or small or even practical. It was a "wish list" after all, not an "easy wish list". :wink:

TBH, the 200A+ and 20s capability is a tad overkill for most setups (maybe the 5th scales). But it sure would be neat to use an ESC like that in an e-bike or something. :smile:

And about "robbing" the parts, I was referring more to taking what already works and has been tried and true (like the MM brains) and experimenting with the power section. Just an idle thought. I know what it's like to have something you design be stolen, but it was not my bread-n-butter so it didn't matter so much.

Well, what I was talking about above was for a 12S design, not 20S. We do have the SHV controller which is good for 20S, but it gets very expensive very quickly to do 20S.

The SHV-250 is 20S, 250A and a BIG footprint (close to 3"x6") :oh:

And I'm not kidding about robbing the brain boards -- no zombies here! I don't even like the thought of robbing a brain board 'cause they are soldered down on the power board as a hybrid, and it would really difficult to remove without damaging / destroying it.

I'll be changing the MMM control board design to take it from 26V maximum usable voltage to 54V maximum usable for the MMMM (or 4xM? Mega MAX? M-quad? B.F.E.S.C.?)

Yeah, 3X6 would be big, but not really in relation to whatever would require that kind of power. It would be large in an 8-10th scale, but not so bad in a 5th scale or larger.

When are you gonna start making car ESCs... meaning real 1:1 cars? :wink:

Patrick, I will try to be constructive, all this brains-transfer business start when you had first generation of MM, with great software but "Ok" layout. Latest version with new layout and new fets doesn't need anything besides couple components, improved heatsinking and software to perform on MMM level. And I mentioned alot that with that layout you did the best for 4-6S setups. And just software upgrade to support 5-6S will do the job. While MMM with just extra 6 fets and all on top, with pathetic cooling just make me believe that all the input from RC forums for small foot print and no fans was ignored. Thank you for switching BEC, though, I understand sometimes you need to iron out some bugs.

I would rather use your product, other than making it to work close to MGM level. You have the best price, software and service but MGM has nice hardware...

And I am not biased on Castle products, I do like what works the best and easy to use.

So, for now I do not see any challenge to make ESC in MM or Tekin R1Pro size with 6S support (30V Fet's protected and adequately heatsinked) and ~100A current capacity.
While 3x6 sounds interesting but at 20S and 250A I will go with different controller...

What's constructive about being intentionally insulting, and calling people stupid? Until that last post, I thought it might be a cultural thing. Thank you for clearing it up for me.

I'm looking forward to seeing your designs on the hobby store shelves.

I can put my sticker on modded MambaMax controllers? :)

Sure. We could even change the caps and add the TVS for you.

Don't forget to use different heatsink goo too

Fantastic! That what I was looking for. Can you add copper plate? And 5-6S support?

Nope, the goo is GriffinRUs deal -- he'll have to put the goo on himself.

You do know that the copper plate and the Artic silver doesn't really make much difference right? What would make a big difference is to go to a pin-fin copper heat sink... like this one:

http://www.coolinnovations.com/produ...UltraCool4.php

Try to take an infrared picture of your ESC with and without copper plate, I do not really care about arctic silver...as long as you can keep it as flat as possible, you can use graphite if you can maintain below 0.005". You know there is a step with sand paper right, not only for adhesion.

Sure, there are even better things you can do. If your R&D budget can afford 2 month clean-room run, I can share with you what can be better and we can talk patenting...

:gasp: Nice to hear it!