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Thanks Mac keep us posted!:cool:
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One thing about Lipos is that you shouldn't use them when they are below room temperature (70 degrees). They need to be able to warm up so that they can provide maximum power. If you start them off at 50 degrees, then you would be likely to hit LVC because the cell isn't warm enough yet. This is very important for those of you that will be doing winter driving with Lipos where the outside air temp will be about 60 degrees or lower. To fix this, a simple hair dryer can be used.
EDIT: You can see how this occurs when Lipos are graphed. Before the cells' temperature warms up, many brands of cells will make dip in their voltage even at 70 degrees. This is actually decreasing as newer and newer cells come out, though. Look at the purple (48C) line on the graph of this Kokam 3200mah cell: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...kokam-3200.jpg |
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Your truck looks all aluminum, minus the CF battery plate. W/ the LiPo's installed what are you looking at for weight? I'm guessing 10-11 pounds. A Feigao 10L has about 27 less oz-in torque than a Feigao 10XL when pulling 100amps. I think w/ the Kv and torque of the 10L, and the weight of your truck, this may be why you're running hot. I don't know enough about Schulze to say how warm they generally run. I run a BK20120 because I wanted to make sure the speed control wasn't the weakest link...so it never even gets warm. My Maxx, ready to race is 10.5 pds, I run 14 cells (gp3300 1.17, matched) w/ 18/64. My 2400XL will run 170 degrees w/o the heatsink, thermal grease, and 80mm fan. W/ the aforementioned stuff I run about 120-130 degrees. I get over 10 minutes+ runtime on a big fast track (http://globalservices.globalhobby.co...c.php?t=15061.). On WOT my truck will just barely pass a 1/8 buggy. I think w/ a 9XL and proper gearing you'll easy run the 10 minutes w/ more than enough speed and a tough aluminum truck to boot. Sweet pics and truck, btw. |
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