That is why i like my e-maxx, you only have to take apart one sectionto get to a particular part.

that is why i recommend to use the aluminium diffhousings and the hotbodies C8019 cups and the use of M3X 18 machined screws.. the brakes killed your drivetrain. proper shimming and changing the housings would have prevent this. a proper build savage diff is just as strong as a UE 8spider.

I've already got the 4 spider mod on these diffs, so I know the guts are strong enough, I'll just dump some grease in and seal them back up. However, I would think that shimming the pinion and bevel correctly would really help, this was a SS kit too.....aren't they supposed to have stronger gears?

No, like i said, you need te aluminium diff housings and the HBcup to make them bulletproof. no way around it. The 4spider mod has got nothing to do with the play on the pinion and the ringgear.
this pic probably looks familiar..

Nah, there's grease on mine. :D

So where do I get the stupid alum. version of the cup anyway? And are we talking about the diff case (as in the thing that holds the diff in the front of the truck), or the case that holds the spider gears in? All the results for "hot bodies C8019" I got on Google made it look like it was the spider holder thingy.

Two things, that C8019 is a diffcup, that uses a bigger bearing for one thing and the aluminium diffhousings are the ones that hold the entire diff. only maker on the block so far is GPM (FLM is currently making the bulkless for the savage)

So it'd be wise for me to get the metal version of the cup? i've seen them for $4.50 around on the net, but are they still the metal ones and not a cheapo plastic version? Usually the metal stuff is more expensive, so this kinda throws me off.

No, the HB cup is very good, those cheap aluminium cups are no good. i've a FLM cup, but i don't know if that is up the par, i like the HBcups, because they use a larger type of bearing. and use a metal piece on the output.

I never found any metal cups, I didn't see a description of what the "C8019" was either.

Let's just boil it down to this: should I get one of those Hot Bodies parts for each of the diffs on my Savage?

Um, yeah, can anyone shed some light on this? :)

I have the FLM aluminum diff cups for the Savage. The HB diff cups also work well, according to Serum(I also have these). Eitehr should be an upgrade compared to stock.

Alright, so I guess I'll just get some from Stormer or something, now that I already got a pinion gear to replace the one I killed.

those HB C8019 have got a metal part, (molded into the plastic) that carry the output shaft. They use a other size bearing as well (which is good)16X8X5 instead of 16X10X5. the plastic is such a good quality, that you can make M3 thread in it, and crank the bolts really tight. (M3X18mm) they are the ones you want (about 5 dollars each) if you use a thin sheet of spring metal (such as .2mm thich) and make square plates from it, perforate it with your paper perforator, for the shafts to go thru, you will be able to build the toughest diff possible.

check my diff, so you know what i am talking about with that square plates.

Looks like you just shimmed the inside gears of the diff Serum, don't know if I'll go that far. So they take a different size bearing? I s'pose that means I gotta buy more crap while I'm at it......:M:

the bearings are the same that are used at the wheels.

And no, i did not just shimmed the diffs, i made 4 square blocks at the end (with HB cups this is not needed) and made the diameter of the crosspins smaller, to fit in these blocks..

Shoot for yourself, if you want aluminium cups, they are more expensive, and now you are complaining about the price of two bearings.. It's only a hint to keep the diffs going. ;)

You also need to shim the diff on the outside.