Am running the mmm 2200 combo with 20/58 gearing(running 6.3inch tires aka losi super bolt-ons) normally I run 6000mah enerland 25c 2s lipos but for the 6s I have a set of 5000mah 20c maxamps. I prefur To run 4s b/c it has way to muck power geared that high on 6s(just sold the maxamps batteries). I have since gotten a new rear diff and killed it and the front diff too. Oh and another rear bulkhead and the center skid. Still had all the settings on the mmm on high. That was my last test for the cvds. So I am waiting for my new diffs to show up so I can run again!!!. So I can say the mips 1665 cvds will take some punishment.

thats awsome, im glad to hear that your having success with virtually the same setup, i run on 4s for now, and eventually will try a 5s parallel setup (i was looking at the new lipos here on RCM). But before i do that i think i want to get all the weak links out of my drive train because i know that since im having issues now 5s will only make it worse. so on my list of things to do are cvd's, and from your input i will most likely be going with the MIP units. I also want to get the RCM/fastlane Diffs, though $250 is a lot of money i think a virtually bombproof drive train will be a nice thing. i cant wait until ill be able to get through a couple sets of packs without breakage issues!!!

Thanks alot for the Updates on the MIP cvd's E-fanatic, they have been very helpful. And as soon as i get money they will be on there way to my house!!!

No worries man. Glad I could be the ginnie pig for ya :lol: . I am thinking about getting mikes 1/8th diffs too. Next will be center dogbones or cvds. Then I will try to find a bulkhead that will not break when I look at it :no: . I want a bombproof truck that I can bash and race with! Is that to much to ask?

I forgot to mention I had to dremmal .4mm off the back of the mips cups so they would not bind on the driveshafts and diff bearing. Other than that they are solid. This thing rocks on 5s by the way(I like it better than 6s to be honest). I use 5s in my planes. They are only 3200 30c flight powers but they do ok!

Any updates on those cvd's?? Im finally considering dropping the $ on them and just want to make sure they are still working well for you.

They are still holding up great. I had one of the diff cup start to ware really fast but mip said it didnt get hardened somehow and replaced it!

Has anyone tried the Traxxas cvds? I like how they have dust boots on both ends. Less dirt means less wear.

Well I just broke my third stock slider last night. What's weird about this, all 3 broken ones have been on the front. :oops: I always thought the rear received the most stress. Hmmmmm............

My setup is:

E Revo:

Monster Mamba ESC
18/52 Mod 1 gearing
Medusa 36-60-2000

All this on just 4S, 5000mah 20C and 7000mah 30C.

I've been thinking about 6S, but I can't do that until I get this problem solved.

Some people have said the Medusa 60mm is too small for a Monster Truck, but I'm not getting that. LOL

Temps are well in hand, and it's snapping sliders.:whistle:

I like how the THS set looks:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKSJ9&P=ML

When I upgrade to cvds, I will install my RCM diffs with buggy gears. Then it's just a matter of changing the spur to compensate.

How about these??
 

I like how the THS set looks:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXKSJ9&P=ML

When I upgrade to cvds, I will install my RCM diffs with buggy gears. Then it's just a matter of changing the spur to compensate.[/QUOTE]

How about these axles?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPNJ8
I have a set on one of my SeuperMaxx trucks with the Revo carriers and they seem to work pretty well. I have not really punished the truck to find out about durability yet, but I would think that they are fairly strong. Just a through.

Hey guys I'm running Neu 1515 1.5y (1500 kv) 6s FP and MMMV3. Kershaw design center steel drive shafts and traxxas cvds. I too was going thru the stock diffs on a regular bases. If you want a cheaper diff, install the LST2 diffs in your e-revo. There are a couple of threads on this board about it. I have 50.00 total including shipping off of ebay. I did have to buy some 8 mm drive cups from mike (11.00 for two) You will have to rework your bulkheads and cut a small clearance hole in your frame (rear) to get them to fit. I have not tested this yet because of the 10 inches of snow outside. E-Fanatic how are you breaking bulkheads? Driving into cement walls? JK I beat mine pretty hard but no failures like that.

^^^ That does sound like a cheaper alternative to the RCM hybrid diffs, but i have already broken 3 or 4 rear bulkheads and the thought of them being weaker due to material removal isnt something i really want to deal with, especially since if you break on your gonna have to re-mod the replacements you get.

Good idea for some im sure, but as tough as i am on my truck i want my bulks to be as strong as possible, so i guess ill have to start saving up for the RCM hybrids unless something else comes out.

shizzon do you have any pics you can post of your broken bulkheads? Are you running a e-revo or a converted nitro revo? Not sure if the e-revo bulks are any stronger or any different. I really want to see what part you are breaking.
Side note is there any difference between the MIP "shiny" axles and the regular black ones that have been tested in this post? The "shiny" version is cheaper on ebay.

it is an E-REVO as you can see from the pics...
[IMG]<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/FilvsaVMjDsm18GCfGMmXg?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=em bedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_yLZ68d3qei8/SPlvsIHxPDI/AAAAAAAAANI/lifA8R71zIc/s144/DSC_0154.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/kateheathman14/NewRc?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=embedwebsite">New rc</a></td></tr></table>[/IMG]

[IMG]<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xQiju1fTBh7VOrbS21Thkw?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=em bedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_yLZ68d3qei8/SPlvtRHA37I/AAAAAAAAANY/5PNs7gHhIXI/s144/DSC_0150.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/kateheathman14/NewRc?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=embedwebsite">New rc</a></td></tr></table>[/IMG]

[IMG]<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ItffrYSCN7nRzqrLaWYMPA?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=em bedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_yLZ68d3qei8/SPlvt2R6nKI/AAAAAAAAANg/9CE5rKu_uQc/s144/DSC_0149.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/kateheathman14/NewRc?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=embedwebsite">New rc</a></td></tr></table>[/IMG]

The jump that did it, there it probably at least 15 feet of drop that the picture doesn't show (so about a 20-25 foot drop) and i landed right on the rear end. definately not the trucks fault.

[IMG]<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KyHVnVMNSzz9JPKdntajYg?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=em bedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_yLZ68d3qei8/SPVORO-Pj2I/AAAAAAAAAM4/MpBnnH6wEO8/s144/DSC_0147.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/kateheathman14/NewRc?authkey=u4YRl52DizM&feat=embedwebsite">New rc</a></td></tr></table>[/IMG]

From the way they're breaking, I would suspect the rest of the chassis is flexing severely, or the shocks are bottoming out too soon. If it's a chassis problem, you might be able to find a way to reinforce the stress points somehow.

No matter what, that's a lot of stress you are expecting the truck to absorb!

from what i can tell none of the breaks happened from landing flat on all fours but usually involved an ass down approach to the ground from a good height. I did manage to break the rear of the chassis as well as the bulks on one occasion, i would like to make a center skid that incorporates the front and rear skids to act as a "spine" and increase strength and rigidity. As a student at oit i have access to CNC as well as a company that will water-jet anything i want if i provide the materials, so eventually i would like to make something like this.

yes the "shinny" kit's are for 2.5 sized REVO/slayer, the kit's that include one black/chrome are for 3.3 sized REVO's. i made the mistake when i ordered my centre CVD kit but MIP was nice enough to exchange them for me and sent me one of their clutch kit's to boot! :intello: