Actually, i found the 2nd gear would break the 3.3 center shafts. Puts more stress on it because of the 45 degree of free rotation it has. But your CVD's should be fine

What causes the diffs to fail, are the gears themselves weak or is it something else?

what about a rear spool?

The cup is plastic as is the case. This allows for flex and then the gears strip. The ring gear screws are too small. At a minimum get an aluminum diff cup, the modified ring gear with 3 mm screws and an aluminum diff case. This at least theorecticly corrects the flaws of the 3906 diff.

...or you could spool it.

ohh, thinking a diff for the front and rear spool.

Don't go with a spool. It will make it handle like crap. Keeping one in a straight line is impossible.

i found the gears brake sometimes, but its usually the inside of the diff cups. The plastic holding the spider gears just give...

and i use a spool in the rear and the truck drives perfectly

Hmm
Here's the list

-1 or 2 4908/3905 sealed diffs
-2 steel idlers
-possibly a spool

Sound good!

(welcome back squeeforever, have not seen you in a while)

Yeah, i havent seen him in a while..

Just picked up a MM and cc Bec for 60 bux (thanks chris) for the maxx.
20 bux left atm, gonna be idlers most likely. But on the bright side i can run my 4s zippy lipo with the brushed motors

Wasnt that the MM that was turning off every 5 seconds...

He Ironed out the problems apparently.. we will see..

We'll if anything does go wrong then you can always send it to castle with the replacement/repair fee which IIRC is $50 for a replacement/repair when not under warranty. Or just buy another MMM if all else fails. When I ran the MM on my e-maxx it preformed decent. I always had to run a fan over it because it got quite hot. I ran the MM on 5s a few times without issues but it got hot even with a fan running on voltage that its not meant for "8v". I really wanted to get ahold of a MMM but funds werent sufficient at the time.

Tried it on my CMS6900 motor and it worked just fine. Ian and I think you (Ben) told me that it was just going into overamp protection anyway. And when I plugged in the CMS6900 a few weeks ago before I soldered up the 6.5mm bullet connectors, on 2S the motor spun just fine throughout full throttle range for about 5 minutes. And even when it would shut off and on with the Medusa, it would never actually get hot and it would only do it when I couldn't keep it above like 1/2 throttle, and Ryan told me that motors pull more in those lower RPM's which would explain why the MM was going into overamp protection only when I couldn't keep it above a certain speed.

Sort-of correct. Whilst it is true that motors have a maximum efficiency range in terms of rpms, it is the esc that heats up when you use less than full throttle, as it has to 'switch' at a higher rate, and that in turn generates more heat in the FETS which leads to thermals.

Least it isnt an old msc that would catch fire if you used less than full throttle 100% of the time... (those were the days :mdr:)...

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/PICT0002.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/PICT0003.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/PICT0004.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...x/PICT0005.jpg



Ran it today with 4s lipo and the MMM, runs great and wheelies like a mo-fo.
the motors are on there way out the door.... probably going to get a feigao or something to throw in it :)