Dang, you must have been hard at it today. But it looks like you have it figured out. Now I guess only running them can tell if they will work good. You better try 6s, just to be sure.

Yes, went thru alot of parts to figure this out...

I have a feeling that if I use 1/10 and 1/8 mt parts i can have a solid setup. I did run a lst quite a bit with the stock lst1 parts before going to lst2 parts and the old stuff was decent. Considering this truck maybe weighs 6lbs I have a feeling it will be fine.

Now I have to pull the diff, change the outputs, and reinstall with the revo cups. And cut/weld the shafts. I may try to find some steel tube to sleeve them, not really necessary but i will take a look. And I will make 2 more 6mm id al spacers, using the drill press this time. I did the 1st with a cordless drill and the vise and it is not quite perfect.

Still waiting on the 12mm endmill to mod the other hub. I would really like to use the rpm hubs i have as they are a much better fit with the lower hingepin (stock hubs are really sloppy fit) but the rpm hubs do not have much meat on the sides to bore out for the 6x12 bearings. I will have to measure them carefully and see if they can be modded.

Picked up some 1/4" steel brake line, slightly too big for the lst shaft. I think welding will be fine, but I would like to find a decent tube should I want to extend any of these shafts. They are great for center cvds, as the lst1 wheels shafts, and all of the other center lsoi shafts can be swapped on the various cvd cups and axles.

great work lic, i went the easy way and just bought tekno's, but if i kill the tekno's i will have to build some hybrids since i have alot of lst and maxx cvds laying around too

Harold will be jealous ? :whistle:

Something you might not know about brake line: In the last year or so they changed the metal it is made out of and it is softer than the stuff they had in the past. They did this so it will bend easier and it also is able to bend back straight and not kink or tear like the old stuff. The reason i bring this up is because it might not be as strong as you need. I actually built my own brake system for my drag car last winter without the use of a tubing bender, just my hands, something i was never able to do before with older stuff. Just an FYI.

Honestly, I don't know why you guys say things like that.

Anyway... Looking good snuggle bunny!! err... umm... Lincpimp:whistle:

OK linc, just go ahead and change your lady parts to Harold's muppet.

There was something else relevant I was going to add, but now I can't get those dang muppets out of my head.

Yeah, it does seem different. I remember brake line was zinc coated this stuff is painted. I will have to look online and see if I can get a high grade of steel tube, maybe even hardened.

For these cvds I just plan to cut and weld them. They should be just fine.

Dont know if you have a LHS or not but most have building materials IE a assortment of Stainless tubing. Thats what I use when making my own axles and it works very well. The biggest PITA is getting them to spin straight and true befor you weld them solid.

I have not welded stainless before. What equiment do you use to weld it? Currently I have a mig setup for steel, and the god ole gas torch mainly used for heating and some cutting.

Nothing fancy needed, SS welds beautifully with reg mig.

what wire do you use?

My welder is a smaller 110v/130a Miller and the small spools are kinda pricey so I get what evers on sale or cheapest at the welding supply store.

You have to use stainless wire, right? I was under the impression that was what was needed. Also, do you use argon/co2 mix or is the wire flux core? We weld at work with no flux core wire and argon/co2, but that is for regular sheet steel.