So also was thinking about using a tap and die so I could thread the holes in the plate. I was thinking it would make the mount a little stronger. what size would I use?( thread count, size,etc.....). Is this more trouble than it's worth or do you think there would be additional benefit?

I just got the Slipper mounted. Never mind about threading the hole. I don't think there is enough metal to really do that. I'm just happy the I got the depth of the countersink bit right. Next I will need to find out how long the dog bones have to be.

A few more pics.

Bleh, I would have said use a 2.5mm drill bit & an M3 tap for doing the skid plate to mount the CD unit, but it wouldn't add much strength really no- just be sure to use blue threadloc on all the screws for final assembly. It is looking very good so far, you can always touch up the chassis where you had to notch it using a red sharpie or even red lip gloss ( semi transparent effect like anodizing, so that you can see the metal surface texture but it is coated red ).

No, Neil I only do things one way. After I get it together I will send it back to the shop to get it re-anodized. The turn around is only 2-3 days, and they will only charge me 25 to 30 dollars. Thanks for the compliment, I really appreciate all the guidance so far.

I realize that the chassis is going to get scratched so I think I will get it re-anodized from time to time. I have a few more parts that at the anodizers right now. I don't plan on running it into a tree, but it is not going to stay on a shelf either.

Cmac - I am really enjoying following this build. I have been looking for a thread with someone putting a slipperential in an Emaxx - finally found it. :yipi:

What motor mount are you using? Is it this one....
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmcdmm

Your truck is looking awesome by the way.

Thanks, thirdcliff
yes that's the mount. I've got a lot of cool things that I'm about to bolt on in the next few days stay tuned....

Oh, I am subscribed to this thread - don't you worry! :lol: I am going to build an emaxx and have been lurking off your thread and others to see just what type of setup I want. Still researching...

But I did pick up a FLM chassis, hybrid bulks, shock towers (pretty much your setup) and some HB diffs - still waiting for the 43t diff gear (HBSC8028) to swap with the spirals that came with mine. Damn things are sold out EVERYWHERE.

But I can't wait to hear how the slipperential is in the maxx. It just might be my next part....

Try these guys.
http://rc4speed.com/index.php?route=...roduct_id=129?
It will take a few weeks to get to Austin, but it's less time than waiting for everyone to get them back in stock. They take Pay pal. So just as Neil said on the first page of this thread your covered.
Good luck,
Mike.

Whoa - I totally missed that link. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I just created an account and are awaiting approval from RC4speed.com before I can order.

Do you remember how much it costs to ship here? I converted the price of the gear which was 10 Euros and it's about $15 which is the same as the stateside companies are charging. As long as the shipping isn't too outrageous I will use them.

Thanks again for the link.
- Cliff

I don't remember what the shipping cost, but I don't think it was all that much.

O.K next problem. Neil do you know what my options are as far getting a new set of these plastic pillow ball retainers? Or can I use something else. I got a set of used U.E. upper and lower Supermaxx A-arms, and knuckles. The plastic retainers were marginal at best. Will I be able to use stock length CVD's with this setup? I guess I will have to drill this stripped retainer out, and try not to damage the threads.

Hmm, now you're asking good questions..

Looks like you have either RacerX or the EXT knuckles ( same thing, different strength so far as I know ) there with bearings designed to take the 6mm cvds by the looks of it ( you'll need to double check the size of the bearings- should be 6x16x5mm or 8x16x5mm ), in which case you need the EXT cvds to match- both are out of stock and may never return however:

http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...re/13501S.html
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...re/13502S.html

Luckily ebay always comes up trumps:

http://cgi.ebay.com/e-t-maxx-2-5-UE-...item415b1dd854

http://cgi.ebay.com/traxxas-t-maxx-u...item3a6630ed3c


a snip at $200 per set of 4- there are Titanium ones too for $500 :lol:

I would grab some quick before they sell out really- bare in mind they dont use a little cross-pin to hold the hex in place, they use a keyed stubaxle to take their own proprietory 14mm hexes- if you want to run larger hexes, you have to find some 14mm > 17mm/23mm adapters, though that isn't so hard thankfully.

The pillow ball retainers look to be the same size as the ones on the stock old 3906 emaxx knuckles, so finding stronger replacements should be a bit easier- there are alloy ones around so just add blue threadloc and fewer worries about stripping the hex drive:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-4934-Alu...item35b21c86c6

http://cgi.ebay.com/Traxxas-E-Maxx-A...item23124a4384

The UE version is ofcourse out of stock and also may never return.

As for your stripped retainer, I would heat up a flat bladed screwdriver, push it in, let it cool/ set, then just unscrew the retainer, quicker and easier really :)

I would like to continue to use my various 17mm wheels. So where could I find 17mm adapters?