Well, I got all the 3.3 stuff on and the proline shock cups rub those fat slider shafts, as well as the springs touch the inside of the upper arms. Now what am I going to do? ARGGGGGG! that was the whole purpose of the upgrade was the arms and shafts. BTW the stock shocks will fit ok. Suggestions please,

Thanks.

got pics?

I'll take some later.

I run the proline shocks with the 3.3 stuff dont have an issue. Are you using the RPM arms or the stock. Im using RMP. It is a fairly tight squeeze with the proline shocks. What shock towers are you using, and which holes in the arms? I had to get the little pegs on the shock towers just the right length to get it all to fit together just right.

Just for reference. This thread has a photo of my maxx with the 3.3 stuff all set up before the I went to the proline shocks. http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3588 WhenI shitched to the fatter proline shocks I had to get the spacing right on the upper shock mounts.

If your shock cups are rubbing on the slidders maybee a small washer between the shock mount on the arm and the hollow ball at the bottom of the shock to move it out just enough to clear the slidder.

I was going to suggest the same thing- but maybe used a small shim or two at the top & bottom of the shock to space it off the mounts- should clear the inside of the arm and slider shaft then. Give it a try at anyrate.

A good shim would be the small spacers that are used with the turnbuckles to adjust bumpsteer.

Ok, here are some pics. The problem is the spring perch sets on the slider shaft before pushing the shock over to bolt it on. If I was to shim it out to miss the shaft the spring it self hits the inside of the upper arm, in fact it hits the arm even if pushed over in the "bolted position". Its like the arm wont allow the whole shock to move any directon to clear the shaft if I tried to shim it. These are the RPM arms and the stock towers. I tried all available hole both in the tower and lower arm and none provide clearance to the shaft/perch/arms.

Ah, I see now. So, the end rubs on the shaft if it isnt shimmed, and if it is the spring rubs against the back-inside edge of the arm.... Do you have a dremel.........

I cant see any possible solution other than to enlarge the opening in the upper a-arm, or to use slimmer springs/shocks. You be buggered otherwise young'un as they say.

Here is what Im thinking if I cant find a solution to work with the prolines and the sliders. Looks like traxxas has some cvd's coming out and cheap. Can this price be right? If so I'll just run my stock shocks for now and order these shafts. Then make the swap back to the prolines when those come in. I dont have to much $ tied up in the shafts. I wonder if that price on the cvd's is a misprint as the center shafts are much more.

That does seem rather cheap, must be a typo, although someone said there traxxas cvds broke (in their BL jato). I would go for something a little better like MIPs or something- cost more but very unlikely to break them.

From what I've read here the mip's and the rpm arms are a bad mix:002:

Yep! got the same problem with the 3.3 shafts and the stock arms..

the powerstrokes where rubbing, even the big bores are.. (they use slightly larger diameter retainers) waiting for the cvd's now.. I found a way to make them work though, but you are somewhat limited to the setup options.. but it works, and it works good.. so i am happy.. just find the angle that puts the shocks relative straight. either that, or wait for the CVD's that are about to come out..

Um, er, in that case (you can tell I've never had a maxx before)- ask mike, he should be able to recommend a good combo, if not give the traxxas ones a try- if they do break quickly Im sure you can get a refund and get something better.

Sorry man!!, completely forgotten about this!!! LOL Here is what i did to prevent the powerstroke shock from rubbing;

got a Revo shock end.. They are higher, and less large in diameter.. Works like a charm

Two sets of these get you on the right track; trx5465