I got to say that that maxx is looking killer... and on 5s with the 125 and neu, you'll be having unimaginable fun with that set up.

Thanks! I don't know a lot about lipo batteries...always avoided them because of the cost but now is a good time to convert.

I did receive my UE shafts and they do fit...but are a tad shorter than ideal for the FXT arms. I am going to have to tinker around with the setup and see what I can do to make things fit better.

UE shocks are AWESOME. Gotta hand it to UE....they didn't skimp on spare parts and everything was top quality.

I'll post more pics tomorrow.

New pics
 

Here are some pics of the FXT arms w/UE shocks and drive shafts.

can you take a pic from above? i'd like to see how the shocks angle is on the felxtek arms. i wasn't too keen on it sitting at an angle..

Looks great man!

Can't wait to see my flm chassis showing up at my doorstep.. :) I might give the FLM shocks a try as well.

You are right. The angles are a little undesirable...but there isn't any noticeable binding. I am a little worried about the drive shafts...they are just a hair short and my pivot balls are bottomed out....hmmm. There is room to work though and I think I can figure something out. Maybe put a small bushing on the inside of the knuckle bearing to "push" the dog bone into the drive cup? I would lose a little of the threads for fastening the wheel, but I think there is still enough.

Any Ideas?:032:

tbonz cvd not long enough
 

All,
This is a great thread because I'm having the same problem with my Tbonz. I'm using RPM arms. My RPM suspension arms are the same size as my stock E-Maxx (pre-WideMaxx) suspension arms. The Tbonz are about 1/4 inch too short and I don't understand why. I have the Fastlane Machine Chassis with the combo diff carrier/bulkhead with 1/8th scale diffs. I bought it all from Monster Mike.

I hope my LHS has some 3.3 sliders if that is the answer.

OldSoldier

Old Soldier
The T-bonz should be working for you? Do you have the pivot balls screwed in all the way? Also, check to see if you have too much suspension travel....you may have to reduce just a tad but the t-bonz should work.

Basically, you don't want the driveshaft to sit too deep. can you get a pic of how they are positioned now?

Serum,

I'll get a pic posted soon. But the dog bones were almost falling out of the diff drive cups....so I installed a 1mm washer on the inside of the steering knuckle and tuned the suspension just short of flat. The pivot balls are also bottomed out on the suspension arms. Now the dog bone is perfect in the drive cup...plenty of room for suspension travel and no fear of it falling out under load. I am just a tad disappointed with the amount of suspension travel I have...its more like a monster buggy than a Monster Truck.

Here it is now...

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6409

Scroll down to see

Yes, you may be right about the suspension travel, but I found one other problem...the rounded dogbone end of the Tbonz are too fat to fit in the drive cups of the HotBodies Lightning diffs I bought to go into the Fast Lane Machine hybrid diff housing/bulkhead. I ended up shaving all four dogbone ends down considerably to get them to fit inside the drive cups. This is getting painful! Where did I go wrong?

There are other diff cups that you can get...but it would be a major pain in the @ss to change all that out at this stage. You may want to consider getting new drive shafts. The problem is that in grinding down the dogbones they will probably wobble under load...which will probably cause premature wear on your bearings, diffs, and gears. Sorry.

I don't see them wobbling bad if grinded properly. It could cause the pins to break out eventually. But I have one on my girls truck that had to be shaved down and has not caused any issues as of yet. Try it out and keep an eye on it, if it's not working well, then you can consider new cups at that point.

Ah i had the same problem. I bought hb diffs and tsais cvds. they would not fit in the cups so i grinded them down. They became considerably weak and i broke the pin with my hand on one. i emailed mike and he told me (after i grownd down one cvd) i could use savage diff cups and they work fine with hb diffs because it is a co company to hpi and there diff construstion is simmilar. This will fix the problem of two small diff cups. Though because i had one growned down shaft and 3 goods, ther was no use in using them so i traded 3 t-bones for 4 sliders, and i am currently using the axel stub mod which works like a charm. I am getting 3.3 mip cvds in about 3 days though

Can you lay out what steps I would need to take to covert to sliders? I can't visualize how sliders connect to the drive cups of a Hotbodies diff. Do I need to go back to stock diffs to use sliders? I need to solve this before Memorial day weekend.