The chassis has in fact some big CF parts. Maybe I changed some cable routing when working on the car..

You can change the channel by turning some kind of switch on the receiver. Sender is set by entering setup mode and choosing one with the buttons..

What is an x-tall? ;)

Hm, if I have the controller and servo plugged in and start to shake the receiver it seems to active at least the servo a bit.

If I plug the controller out it stops.

Ok, it stopped when I plugged out the controller since I used the internale BEC. ;)

http://cx4.de/rc/XS6r1.jpg
http://cx4.de/rc/XS6r2.jpg

I opened up the receiver and found lots of dirt.
I tried to get most of it out.

At first it didn't seem like anything changed.
Then it didn't act weird and now I got the receiver mounted on the servo again and everything seem to be ok again..

That's quite mysterious. ;) Hope that it doesn't change it's mind all the time now.

Were you using AA alkaline batteries as your receiver pack? These will sometimes cause the glitch problem, as they loose voltage under a load rather quickly. A true nimh 5 cell receiver pack with a good charge is much better. If you are only using 12 c3ells, the controller bec will be fine.

Had the problems with internal and external bec and with a 5 cell GP nimh hump-pack.
But I 'm going to use the internal bec now since it's the simplest way and saves some wires and space...
I got the whole other stuff when the controller overheated and I wasn't sure if the motor was the main reason.

Today we finally managed to drive on the track, after a few minutes my car stopped and smoke poured out of it.

Any ideas how that could happen?
I used 12 GP cells and a Feigao 9L... A Warrior 9920 shouldn't have any problems with that as far as I know..

After that the batteries and motor were hot but not really hot.

The warrior shouldn't have any trouble at all with that combo. Were you running this in the buggy? My first instinct is that the battery wires shorted somehow(just a guess). Perhaps a wire shorted on metal or aluminum somewhere?

Yes in the buggy, just got the E-Maxx yesterday.

The batteries weren't extremely warm after that and how would a short on some metal part affect the controller?
There chassis is made of CF though and the controller was shrink wrapped, don't know...

If you are talking about an internal short, that's what I think is most probable. Maybe it got damaged with the 7L and BEC when it thermalled regularly.
If you look at the picture there is some dirt on the caps and on other parts which I couldn't just brush off, it was somehow glued there. I cut most of it off with a pretty sharp knife.. After that I got maybe 20 minutes of run time until this monday.

Could something like that happen if the motor has a short?

Some other ideas were that the receiver lost connection and apparently that makes the controller brake pretty hard. That happened a few times after I resoldered the plugs on the warrior but only when I tested it lifted of the ground.
On the track it didn't do anything unexpected I think...

http://cx4.de/rc/storm09.jpg

If the batteries shorted, it would send this energy into the controller, which would be problematic for sure. A shorted motor could also spell trouble for the controller(will cuase excessive current and heat which may overheat and damage the controller before it has a chance to thermal). Loss of receiver signal shouldn't damage the controller(it simply stops working after the hard braking effect until it picks up the signal again).