probably not. The kershaw designs one only wokrs with the hole pattern on neu/feiago/etc motors.

You could E-Mail Dan (Kershaw Designs) and he'll make you one with custom mounting holes.

when I was looking at the kershaw one I thought it came with 700 size motors, which i think is the same as kb45.

Oh, sorry, my bad. I thought you were talking about the direct drive, but you are just talking about the mount. Sorry for the confusion.

The KB45 motors have 30mm mounting circle and 4mm screws opposite to the normal 25mm and 3mm screw pattern that 540 sized motors have. I had to modificate the direct drive motor plate a bit to get this motor on it's place.

scarletboa: If you're planning to run your truck with 6S, then I'd rather get the 1400kv version of this motor, as this 1800kv gets pretty hot quickly.

i actually plan on running only 5s lipo with the 1800kv motor so i don't end up with my tranny looking like your old one.

i have the 2 speed which is supposed to be stronger than the 3 speed due to wider gears. how would i be able to lock it into 2nd gear? i heard that bl motors have much more torque than nitro engine while shifting and tend to wreck the 2nd speed (or 3rd speed) gear.

since the kershaw motor mount i'm looking at has room for 2 motors, i think i'll ask Dan, the owner of kershawdesigns, if he could drill one side of the mount for the kb45 motor and leave the other side standard feigao/neu sized.

The actual locking procedure of the 2spd tranny is pretty much the same as 3spd (check page 1 of this thread).


http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/IMG_0085_800.jpg

So, received my MMM last friday and just had to give it a little test. Everything ran really smooth although I prolly fried the KB45 motor while running in slightly wet (=heavy!) snow. It just stutters and shakes while applying throttle - fortunately the MMM is still working ok, tested it with a new motor. :oops:

There's a little shaking (filmed with transmitter & cam at the same hand) snow jumping video at YouTube, which can be viewed by clicking the pic below.

http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/mmm_6s_th.jpg
(HD option available)

I finally got all the parts I wanted for this savage build and here it is.

Mamba monster 2200
Fastlane machine A arms, diff cases, shock towers, savage brushless conversion kit and LST shock conversion aswell.
Integy LST piggyback shocks
Savage XL diffs with HD savage diff shafts
savage flux single speed tranny
integy bearing/axle carriers in the rear
and integy aluminum steering knuckles in the front
maxamps 6s 5250 lipo

Ive got a few good runs in so far and its got so much power its kinda silly, I've cooked 4 bearings so far and cant find a glue strong enough to keep the tires on the rims.

If anyone has questions let me know, I'd love to share what I have learned about this truck so far.

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_4230.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_4231.jpg

I'm definatly looking at baja tires, I think they'll suit it just right

How did you get the XL diff to work with the FLM bulkhead? I just got mine in the mail, and the larger outdrive cups from the Xl do not fit through the holes on the flm hybrid bulkhead.

and the best part is I can fit a 6s lipo INSIDE the chassis plates

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_4232.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_4234.jpg

http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_4228.jpg

the xl diff cups dont fit the FLM dogbones anyways, I used the silver HD savage diff cups so they would be stronger than the xl and the right size for the FLM dogbones

...nice build Savager...deserves its own thread ;)

Aaahh the snow has melted and the ground is somewhat dry - time for some spring bashing! :yipi:

Now running with KB45-12L 1400kv, Mamba Monster Max & 6S lipo.

Click the pic to see the Spring jump video:

http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-...g_jumps_th.jpg
HD version available, drop a comment if you like.

Everything went pretty well, until I broke the bigger gear from Kershaw's transmission. At some point earlier I overtightened the setscrew holding the gear, apparently damaging the threads. Now it got loose and broke the "collar" from the gear.

picture from the damage:
http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/IMG_0146_800.jpg

Here's some data from Eagle Tree:
http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/KB45-12L_6S_a.png

http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/KB45-12L_6S_b.png

Ordered couple of those gears from SDP-SI, but because I had extra day off from work, I just had to get the car running. Managed to fix the broken gear by drilling & tapping a new hole for the set screw, changed the motor to KD36-74-15XL 1100kv and was off to see if this thing could learn to fly...

Wanna see the video?
http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-...jumps_2_th.jpg

Click the picture above then.

I was pretty close to succeed in my teaching lesson, but unfortunately the front diff broke. Prolly the rear went too because the driveline was locked at the end... Transmission rolls well though. :oops:
Also one plastic spur met it's maker, because the motor shifted a bit.

Other than that I was really having fun. :yipi:

...janezki thats some great stuff...Your driving surface looks quite loose...any over-heating problems on it? Good to see you using the truck for what it was designed for :D Great stuff :party:

Thanks - the 1100kv motor didn't really get too hot, so no probs with that.

Got two new transmission gears from sdp-si with very reasonable price of $19.97 including postage to Finland... :yes:

http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/IMG_0186_800.jpg

... and started to disassemble the truck to see what kind of damage I've managed to make.
The rear diff seems to be ok, but the front had all four screws cut from the bevel gear, which then jammed the driveline. Bevel & pinion gear look ok to me, but the spider gears are damaged. Also the diff cup will have to be replaced, because of the screws that are cut inside the threads.

http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/IMG_0183_800.jpg

http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/IMG_0181_800.jpg

Janezki - i didn't know you were finbilly on Youtube. i used to watch all your brushless 1/10 vids. Nice work on them btw. Good looking xl you got there as well.

Well that's me allright. There are some decent videos there, though most of them might be below average. If I'd only have some editing skills... :oops:

do the sdp-si gears fit correctly? If so, I thikn I am going to need to order some. I shattered (yes shattered) my gear into at least 5 chunks, and ordered replacements from dan. Its been 3 weeks. Finally got them, but realized I got the wrong ones (I asked for 48t like the original gearbox, but I needed 45t, cuz I had the updated version). Sent them back on friday, but knowing dan, I won't get the correct ones until next week at the earliest (if I am lucky). I think I might just order from sdp-si as well.

Look for gear A 1Z 2MYZ1004506, it's the same except that it's got 3mm set screw (prolly Dan modifies them for 4mm?)

http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/IMG_0228_800.jpg

edit: oh, and the smaller 20t metal gear is A 1C 2MYK10020H :wink:

why did you swap the KB out for a KD? did you fry the KB45-12l too?

No, KB is allright. I just switched the motors because the KD is lighter and I knew I was going for some big jumps. Wanted to be sure the motor will stay onboard when jumping. :yes:

Too much power
 

Well I haven't been posting lately, but I just broke the 44t gear in my 2 spd. tranny and thought I'd share my 2nd gear locking method. It's basically a small tack weld that i filed smooth. Not the prettiest, but works great. I snapped both of the tabs off the 44t gear and filled a new one with epoxy to stop that in the future. I also took all the teeth off the small gear if you were wondering.

Got the Revo slipper mod done (finally), had the parts lying around for couple of months already but lacked the inspiration... :oops:

http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/IMG_0253_800.jpg

http://janezki.pp.fi/grfx/savage_xl-e/IMG_0255_800.jpg

Had to postpone the testdrive because of hailstorm & loads of rain... :oh:

Nice slipper mod.

Some E Revo owners have problems with their slippers burning up because they set them a tad too loose. If you get problems with that be sure to look into Mistercrash's aluminum slipper mod. You can find it in his sticky topic over in the Revo section.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. :yes:

why didn't you keep the savage slipper?

It doesn't keep it's adjusted position, atleast I haven't succeeded in that.
It either slips too much or not at all, so this is supposed to be an upgrade. :intello:

I've also noticed that you need to have the slipper pretty tight for the big motors. When you start to coil bind the little spring it will unevenly load the spur gear and cause it to spin in warped looking pattern. Then you back off the slipper to get it straight and the slipper slips. If anyone knows of a little larger or longer spring that might work it could be a useful mod. I think HPI is using the term slipper clutch very broadly here. A sticky backed piece of sandpaper is not a slipper clutch. I might see if I can fit 2 springs on the slipper.

Kershaw designs has an upgrade kit that consits of two bellevile springs and a thrust washer. Here it is: http://204.186.93.64/SlipperSpring.htm

I am using that kit, and it helps a lot.

cool I'll give it a shot.

I've been a bit busy because of my work, so I haven't been able to enjoy my hobbies that much recently.
Anyway, since the last upgrade/date to Revo slipper this has happened:

Diffs converted to CENs:

http://janezki.pic.fi/kuvat/RC_stuff...g/_smaller.jpg

http://janezki.pic.fi/kuvat/RC_stuff...g/_smaller.jpg

Bought one of the last (?) Tekno Neus:

http://janezki.pic.fi/kuvat/RC_stuff...g/_smaller.jpg

Bought two new lipos:

http://janezki.pic.fi/kuvat/RC_stuff...g/_smaller.jpg

Changed tires to Badlands:

http://janezki.pic.fi/kuvat/RC_stuff...g/_smaller.jpg

http://janezki.pic.fi/kuvat/RC_stuff...g/_smaller.jpg

And had some serious fun and enjoyment from this setup. :yipi:

Im using 18t pinion with the 49t MGT spur, so with 6S the truck is reasonably fast for offroader.
The motor is just pure insanity and I love it - should've got it right from the start...
It doesn't get hotter than 60°C (140°F) no matter how I punish it and lipos stay cool also.

Here's the data from Brian's calc:

Differential Ratio: 2.888888888888889
Transmission Ratio: 2.25
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 49
Pinion Tooth Count: 18
Total Voltage: 22.2
Motor KV: 2200
Tire Diameter (inches): 5.84
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0.5
Motor Current Draw: 110
Motor coil Ω: 0.006
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.72 : 1
Total Ratio: 17.69444 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches):21.49 inches (545.81 mm)
Total Motor Speed: 47388 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 54.5 mph (87.54 km/h)
Effective KV Value: 2134.59
KT constant: 0.61 oz-in/A
Motor Torque: 0.35 ft-lbs
Final Torque: 6.23 ft-lbs
Final Power: 2442 watts (3.3 HP)

Unfortunately there's no video yet, I've been so excited to just drive. :intello:

DOnm't mean to pop your bubble, but I don't think those batts are adequate for your setup. As rule of thumb, your continuous and burst amp ratings should be 25% more than the actual continuous amperage and burst amperage (in practice). You can get away with an 80 amp continuous rating, but to be on the safe side, I would say go for 100 (those are rated at 79.5, so 80). That is not where the problem lies. Your batts are rated at a burst rate of 106amps. According to your values above, 2442watts / 22.2v = 110 amps. Your burst amperage is less than the calculated amperage above. Your batteries may not be overheating now, but I thnk it may be a problem in the future. If not the batts, it will damage your ESC.
Sorry if I ruined your fun, I'm just trying to prevent you from losing expensive equipment.
--Spif

You are correct in your calculations with one battery - I'm running those in parallel.

oh sorry, i thought those were two 3s cells :P. My bad. Can I have a link please. I have been looking for 2 6s packs that would fit between the TVP's for a while. All of them were too long or too wide, but those seems perfect (i have the same setup as you, except with FLM tvp's instead of those). I also preordered my kersahw gearbox so that it would mount backwards be default instead of drilling new holes in the chassis.

:) No problem.
http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...idProduct=9268
There you go - seem to be out of stock at the moment.
They're pretty much perfect fit between the tvp's.

->Finally some video<-

Love this setup (did I mention it already?), no bigger mods will be made - this one's ready (sure!)...

Great video, that bash spot is Tits ! I was woundering how you mamaged to shoot video and drive and at 6:11 I seen your shadow, LOL. You have your hands full.

Awesome! Kill to have something like that by me even within driving distance. And the riding the half bowl was great!
Now to this very odd radio handling lol, credit for doing both driving and taping at once my man! :yes:

LOVE the car man, it's brutally fast and has tons of power. Looks like those BadLands grip like hell :)

For filming : buy a TriPod to shoot the vids, you can concentrate on the driving more altough you're not bad at all with the driving and filming. When I want to film and drive I take my GorillaPod (sort of a tripod with three flexible legs) and put that on my transmitter (DX3S) works like a charm. How do you do this, one hand vid and the other transmitter?

Possible upgrade : center skid plate to keep the dirt out (or would this just lock it up inside?)