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I think the weight has a lot to do with it, and the traction of his rear tires. |
I was surprised that the baja did so well the first 2 pulls ? I reckon with all the weight on them rear tires was the advantage.
It was good to see you previal in the next 2 pulls, Good Job. Curious to see the tie breaker !? |
@ashek you are a nut! Lol! @finnster you already said it... WEIGHT! I'm still about 3lbs short... If we do another pull I promise you... He's getting DRUG!!
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Nice one NEIL !!!!!
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ok guys this is off the thread topic, but does anyone have a MGM esc and know how to program it by remote or on the computer. I'm about to go CRAZY!!!!!!!
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Still having issues? Sell that sucker already! :lol:
Try the search, but there arent that many guys running them due to cost and.. well, cost really- the MMM killed off the MGM for anything needing 6s lipo and high current handling pretty much. |
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they are not hard to do w/ a radio once you understand the "logic" they are using. |
I can get into programming mode with no problem. But once I start, how do I know what paremeter I'm in? I need to go to the battery paremeter and change the basic battery setting from 5s to 6s. Whats the trick of knowing you are in the next paremeter... and once you are in it, what selection you are on?? Man if you can help me understand how to programm these mgms I'll pay you! lol.
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OK, so you are getting into programming mode. Basically, turn on controller w/ full throttle on the radio. Do the sequence, Fwd (beeps) -> Rev (beeps) -> Neutral (beeps)
Leave controller on, now in programming mode on parameter A. Before you start this, make sure you have the manual w/ the programming table in front of you. (pg 6 of the manual I have) If you want to change A, hit reverse (back to neutral) equal to the number of the new parameter setting. EX, for parameter A, you want to change the setting to "Car Mode, One way" which equal to value 3 in my manual. Goto programming mode, starts in parameter A with you in the neutral radio position. Hit reverse (1 beep) to neutral once (2 beeps), waiting for confirmation beeps each time. DO NOT GO TOO FAST! Wait for it to beep before you move the radio stick. => OK, you've done this once, which puts you into value 1 of parameter A. We want to get to value 3, so repeat this TWO more times (for a total of 3.) Once you have done that, hit full throttle to confirm the choice. Motor will beep 3x. Go back to neutral, motor beeps 2x and controller moves to Parameter B programming. Para A programming is saved. Couple notes: -Once you save a parameter setting by hitting FWD (3X beeps) and back to neutral (2x,) you can turn off the controller and the value will be saved. You don't have to go all the way thru. -Parameter values do not wrap around. IE, in the example above, if you are meaning to program number 3, and you hit REV four times, you messed up and cannot make it go backwards or go to the end and restart at 0. Just turn the controller off w/o saving and start over. => This is what tripped me up. On CC and novak controllers, if you pass the value you are programming, keep hitting advance and you can go back around again. They have beeps or flashes to tell you what value is selected. You have to remember w/ the MGM, they don't tell you shit if you are on value 2 or 3, or even parameter A or C. -> Why haven't they fixed this? Because they are dumbasses and CC is not. CC updates their stuff regularly, MGM barely ever does. MGM made better hardware at once, but they haven't innovated in years. -If you don't want to change a paramter value, you can just skip it by just hitting "Enter" (full throttle to neutral, 3x beeps then 2x) and it advances w/o changing the previous value. -Its easy to get lost where you are at. I actually printed out the table and used a coin to mark my place on the programming table each time I did a radio command. (Then I got the usb programming working, and never suffered this bullshit again.) So, according to my manual, you want to change parameter F. Get into pgramming mode, and just do the ENTER sequence 5 times to advance to para F. Once there, hit REV to NEU 6 times to select 6 cells. Then hit ENTER, wait to save, then turn off controller. Also, you may also choose NIMH (value 1) in Para F to disable to LVC. You can also choose RACE MODE in parameter E I believe, which will also disable the LVC. The hardwired LVC is 3.1V/cell. You may or may not want this. Up to you. Hope that helps. As you can see, its a bit of a PITA, it works, but too easy to get lost. Since you are using only 6 cells, I'd highly suggest thinking about a MMM or other easier controller down the line unless you really need a huge AMP rating and the MMM surely won't take it. Just nicer on so many levels. |
well I finally got it!! Thanks a mil... I owe you! Now my only problem is it won't start up the same way it did before I programmed it. I can't figure out how to get it to arm now. Is that normal?
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oh yeah i'm not, I am using a 6s lipo... That's why I wanted this specific esc... Still can't get it to fire up again no matter what I do with the trigger after switching it on... Unbelievable! Lol.
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Maybe try re-cal'ing the radio first, it may not be seeing neutral. Other possibility is you miscounted and narrowed the neutral range, or your batt voltage is below the lvc. |
the easiest way to program an MGM is with the cable and a computer
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I reset it... It's moving again. What a relief! @Sv6000 I have the cable and the usb and the disk. When I plug my car up nothing is showing up! I want to use my computer bad but idk why nothing is showing up in the program??
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Just plug that in 1st. PC programming is wayyyyyyy easier if you can get the usbcom to work |
hey you guys are the pros.. I'll try it again tomorrow after work! I have one last question for the night. My main issue is when I give my buggy full throttle it shuts down. Which setting would you say is the one I need to change to fix this problem? Switching off voltage? I think it's set at .20v now... Plus there is a B1 B2 section. #of cells 1-9 then B-2 type of cells and their cut off voltage. Do I have to set both of these or just the second one? 1= 10 cells 2= 20...
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you need to follow the instructions when turning it on or it wont work. I know that sounds silly but i had the same problems followed the instructions to the letter and it went off without a hitch. From memory you start the program, plug the cable to the computer, than to the controller and than after selecting the non BB screen switch on the controller. But just double check that in the manual. Or better yet get rid of the MGM
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I'll just do it by remote and play with the program after. Also since so many people keep advising me to get rid of it, I know I either have a piece of crap, or a rare item (like the BigMaxximum motor I traded) in my possession. I'll just keep it, and find out which one for myself lol.
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The MGMs are not bad, they can be unneccessarily frustrating at times. The programming is too complex, and the USBCOM should work easier. I think the brake reverse prgramming is subpar.
Overall tho they are solid controllers, just dated in the firmware/software by more modern stds. I still have mine after 4 yrs and there still is not a native CC/Tekin/Novak/etc solution to replace it. As fr as the buggy goes on shutting down. First try to do the "auto tuning" in Parameter A." You set it, drive the car around for a bit and the esc will auto set certain parameters based on performance. Failing that, check to see if your batts are up to teh task, and you are not hitting the LVC or something. You can always put it in race mode to disable all the limiters to test the car out and narrow down the problems. |
i've been using mgm for a couple of years now and besides programming them, I love them. Also Mr. MGM e-mailed me back and said if I lower my gearing it'll probably stop shutting down. I do have it kind of high 30/81. Also race mode? I'll have to check that out!
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That was it! I lowered the gearing down 4 teeth, no more shut down!! Thanks for the asistance now time for some more PULLOUTS!! Lol. Ps I just got a text from one of the nitro guys at the track. It said, "we're going to build something to take down that E-Maxx. I told him GOOD LUCK!! Lol.
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What MGM do you have? Race Mode is probably OK for a few pulling runs, just not for everyday use. |
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@bruslessboy no I haven't but I need to. I know some softer tires would help alot. I've upgraded to the 23mm hubs because I kept stripping the others. Idk if I can find some soft tires that size??
@whats nitro oh ok... I have the z series 280/340 6s esc. I use it in my buggy not my truck though. I don't think I see that one on my sheet. I think I will scan it so you guys can check it out. That b1-b2 paremeter for the battery still has me really confused. @redshift thanks and I'll check out ur video the next time I'm on my laptop. |
I am messing around with the scanned document so I can try to load it on here so you can see it... It opens in adobe acrobat, but not with no other program. I'll load it asap!!
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Well it seems Mr Baha is ready to do a final deciding pull. I declined last Sunday because I still havent upgraded my tires. I have an idea that might let me get around that.
A LONG throwrug! I think I will take one of my (smooth carpet rugs) to the track so we can do our pullout on it. I think I will get all the traction I need if we do our pullout on there. What do you think?? |
You'd better glue that rug down or it wont help much! :lol:
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You are right man... what tires do yall think will help me get a better grip the most? Bow tires or what? I know if my tires were softer and would grab, they would help alot! Any suggestions?? I have 23mm hubs so I am restricted....
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Just did 2 new pullouts agianst the Baha today! Video coming soon...
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His gay what?
I think you ment ' you're gay '. :wink: |
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We now have a forum spelling BEE going on?? lol. Anyways here it is. ps (I am not the father) lol!
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Excellent!! I'll like to try the pull with my truck even though I know I'd lose. Against and Baja and against your monster.
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really really nice! finaly I can see a black man doing Rc except me!:lol:
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