Sorry about that, It just seemed a proper location to me having it a bit further to the rear. It gives me more room for my thick fingers to work on it.

I just tried the truck again with a fresh set of 3S lipos. My batteries were empty before :lol: That was the problem. With a freshly charged set of 3S, the thing is a beast and there's plenty of top speed. So with more speed I was able to try to get the truck to flip on it's lid when cornering. Couldn't do it. The truck won't flip. Beautiful. I'm going to have fun with this thing. Gotta make a vid of this truck running.

Yes videos please! If this thing is have as good as your e-revo I'm sure we will all be very impressed!--josh

that sounds better. I know the powertrain is an animal on 6s and well worth the cash. I knew you're gearing or lipo's had to be off.

What were your temps like? should be 100F and below :yes:

Videos are nice, but there is just raw power made by the 1521. It's hard to capture in video. But I'll gladly watch!:yes:

Sweet, its like LST + a bit of flux & revo thrown in = superLST. Cant wait for vids, sounds like a great machine to drive.

Very, very nice. Add me to the waiting for videos, list .

Good. God. What a build! Amazing job MC. I can't believe you cut this by hand... on router table. You must go VERY slow. All the edges look great and everything seems nice and even!! Great job!!!

I didn't have enough time to run the whole capacity of the lipos but after 6 or 7 minutes of running, wheelying, speed passes and just fooling around with it to see what it could do, the motor and lipos were not even warm. I didn't check the temp of the ESC but the fan wasn't on. It's really nice to see that everything was so cool even when moving such a heavy truck. I need new batteries for my scales but I think the truck with lipos in it is around 14 pounds :gasp: I'll have to convince my wife to film the truck. I'll try tomorrow. :mdr:

I went through a whole set of Turnigy 5800 mah 3S lipos this morning. Not on the street and grass but in a construction site. It's a tough place for an RC with dirt mounts, gravel, rocks, 2X4s with nails, empty coffee cups and cigarette butts. But IMO that is where these trucks belong. Other than the first battle scars on the underside of the truck, nothing broken. Temps where 115 motor, 120 ESC and 75 lipos. I was having so much fun that I totally forgot to check for run time.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...tle_scars1.jpg

Still working on the vid.

I have the ''E''

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...0XXL/th_e2.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...0XXL/th_e1.jpg

I broke the truck this afternoon, one of the rear diff's outdrive sheared off at the pin inside the diff. I THOUGHT THESE XXLs WERE BULLET PROOF! :lol:

No sweat, I have a ton of outdrives from back in the day when I made center diffs for the E-Revo out of XXL diffs. And what a pleasure it was to repair it. Working on the LST is so simple and easy. It took me like 14 minutes and I was back playing.

Still working on the vid. The wife had to go somewhere today so I didn't have anyone to play cameraman. I'll try again tomorrow.

Cool a a cucumber then? Thats always the result that puts the cherry on the cake :yes:

Language barrier! I don't get this one. I'm French remember? You'll have to explain this one in detail for me to understand :lol:

Those pins under the sun gear/the out drive pin, they are the weakest link of the XXL diff. I've read where a guy on the LST forum uses colbolt drill bits and they have yet to break, but now he's breaking gears.
I'll rather replace the pin than mess with the gear pieces and chunks that get all m ixed up in the fluid ?

I used to run heavy wt diff fluid but I've dropped down to 15K and i haven't broken a pin in a while now.

It's not the pin that broke, it's the small shaft of the outdrive that the pin goes through that broke. But like you said, better that than the gears themselves which can in turn damage the diff case and mess a big mess inside the diff. With the power of brushless, there has to be weak links here and there on inexpensive parts to protect the rest.

I gotta movie. It's 51 mg. I don't know if my Photobucket account allows large files like that but I'll try uploading it and also on Youtube. Hope it works.

I have my own webserver, so if you want, you can send it to me and I will upload and host it.

Thanks but I think I got it to work.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...e_lst_xxl2.jpg

I love the beginning :lol: But, it looks so 'right' that you should sell the design to Losi :yes:

Definately handles well like you said too.

EDIT: cool as a cucumber = it ( the electronics ) run nice and cool ( since cucumbers are kept in a fridge normally... ) :mdr:

Looks great MC! Last time I had a rig that handled like that on pavement was a hopped up Stampede - long ago traded away.

Nice blend of monster truck clearance and truggy handling. Very nice:yes:

Thanks guys. I liked building this truck and I just love to use it.

Thanks Neil for the cool as a cucumber explanation. We say it differently in the French part of Canada where I come from. Translation would be: Cool as penguin poop.

Not sure we get too much penguin poop around here or in England... :lol:

One word...wing!

It's a MT, not a truggy... No WING!!!

This came up Nice Mc just lite the revo. Hope it will give you tons of fun :). Good work!

Maxxes, Revos, and E-Revos are all MTs...the E-Revo and Revo Platinum both come stock with wings, and most people add wings to their Maxxes and Revos.:mdr:

I have been thinking about a wing, but if the truck doesn't wheely, there's no need for a wing. You see, I can put one of my eight scale CD in the E-Revo tranny if I want. :yes: But for now, the wheelies are in check with this very effective slipper I put on and some throttle control.

If you like to do jumps with the potential to wreck... a wing is not a good idea. I took mine off because I got tired of ripping my rear shock towers out of the frame. The trade off, is that the rear of my stock body is now mangled.

That being said... I tapped my rear shock towers and bulks for 4mm and used 4x25mm screws. I'm going to do the fronts too, but I'm going to wait until the XXL build begins before I do that.

I just checked out the vid! LOVED IT!!! That truck is quite nimble! That little area you've got there is exactly what I am going to make for myself and the boys!

Man, that last jump that you land at 4:00 was sweet nectar! I thought for sure you were going to plant the nose of that into the ground, but it circled right out of it onto all fours. Gotta love it!

That just goes to show you that you don't need giant dirt hills to do cool jumps.

J

To me, wings just look awesome, and they make the truck look so much better. Plus, wings help the truck "fly" right when jumping, and also protect the rear of the truck if you have a wreck and land on the lid...on nitro trucks, wing's protect the engine and cooling head, but they protect a lot more than that on both nitro & electric (shock towers, body mounts, etc.). And of course, there is the best reason for installing a wing...it makes a great handle to pick up and carry the truck! And yes, they work great as wheelie-bars!

If having a wing is causing you to break other parts, I believe it is due to the actual wing you chose and the mount. I run nothing but JConcepts wings, which are soft enough to flex and twist, but strong enough not to crack, tear or break. I also use either JConcepts Revo wing-stays or Mugen MBX-5T wing-stays, because like the JConcepts wing, the are soft enough to bend, flex, and twist, but durable enough not to crack, tear, or break. If your vehicle uses a wing-mount to mount the wing-stay to the truck, you might want to figure out a way to make it bend, flex, twist, etc. without breaking, or maybe even mount it in such a way (like cut half way through the mounting screws, so that they snap if the crash is bad enough) that it breaks away from the truck in a hard enough crash, but stays solidly mounted in place during normal driving and minor crashes.

Just my opinion and $0.02...

I agree with all of that. I use Proline Downforce wings usually. But let me be clear on this... I'm not experienced with doing "flip jumps" and landing on the money every time. So, for me... it's likely that I'll end up landing tail first.. and moving downward at an angle. Which always breaks something! OR... I'll end up landing completely upside down... which usually means mangled body and/or something broken!

I don't have so much of a problem with my ERBE because the body fits better, and the wing is lower as well. These Losi bodies aren't very strong, and the wing sticks up up there quite a bit. So if you're a jumper... and keen to some big spills... it could invite more problems eventually.

But... they sure do look good!

I feel ya...pretty much all I do is jump and do jump tricks now. My ramp is built to throw the truck up very high (but I still get good distance), which gives me plenty of time to do some insane tricks and get the truck settled for landing, but I don't always land perfectly. I jump up onto the roof of my house pretty often, then jump off, jump over real cars/trucks, jump over smaller buildings, over creeks and ponds, etc., etc.. I usually stay out jumping until I break something, which is almost always an a-arm...you can look closely at pics of my Revo and see where I have repaired broken a-arms (CA the break together, cut a groove with my Dremel, CA a finish-nail into the groove, completely wrap the length of the groove/nail with strong black thread, then soak the thread with CA. The fixed area is actually stronger than the rest of the a-arm). I have a few sets of new a-arms, but because I break them so often, I just keep fixing the broken ones until I can no longer fix it anymore, then replace it.

Ray,

Great build as always ! The thing i can't get out of my head was how big that bastage is!...So you like the new slipper that much huh? I may have to get one...

Thanks and yup, I like the slipper. It's been working great so far and that's with a torquey 1521 1Y on 6S hauling a 14 pound truck.

I think I will go ahead and make the B2201 parts out of CF. I think I have enough 2.5 mm CF to make them. Might even make a vid of how I duplicate aluminum parts on CF.

Chad, I have one word for ya. RPM! Pick up a set of their a-arms, they are much stronger and more flezible than stock. I loved them on my Muggy, and I have them in the Rear of my revo. I'm going to pick up a set of fronts here pretty soon too, I just haven't gotten around too it.

I run Traxxas Extended-Wheelbase arms in the rear, and RPM doesn't make any Extended-Wheelbase rear arms yet, plus I don't like how much RPM arms flex, so I don't run them.

The flex in RPMs arms prevent other things from braking, while still not braking themselves. I would tell you the front are worth getting, as they usually take more abuse than the rear.

I know all about RPM, I have run them on various vehicles, and their flex can also be a bad thing. They can cause bent or broken shock shafts, bent CVDs, bent or broken turnbuckles or pushrods, etc., etc.. Plus, they are even worse for racers, because of their flex...when they flex, it completely messes up your suspension settings and geometry, causing your vehicle to handle poorly.

Anyway, I don't like them, so I don't run them.

Good input. I'll keep that in mind.

WOW! Please do!!! I would love to see how you do this. It would really help a guy like me visualize how to do it. I'm a visual learner. I have to see something done in order to grasp it better.

It would help so much to see what this modified part is you put on your router, that you took from another tool...etc.

jason

Here's the vid on how I make CF parts. It's dark in my garage so I hope you can see well. Geez my French accent really shows in this vid :mdr: Lots of hand porn in this one.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...on_how_to1.jpg

And just for you jpoprock, Here's the adapter I use to fit a 1/8'' shank in a 1/4'' router. You can see the 1/4'' hole of the router made for 1/4'' tools like the one on top and the 1/4'' to 1/8'' adapter to fit 1/8'' shank tools like the Dremel bit on the left.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_adapter1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r_adapter2.jpg

Looking at the movie, I realized how annoying the sound of a carbide bit cutting CF is. It's worst than a dentist's drill.