So a 2230 would destroy the drivetrain? I thought it would just cause a lot of tirespin. What drivetrain parts on a 1/10 onroad would this motor destroy? How can I strengthen this drivetrain? What would happen if I geared a pinion to spur ratio of somewhere between 2 to 1 or even 3 to 1? I have a local track I think could support a speed of 140 mph (veledrome) What would it take to hit that speed? Could it be done with 20 cells and a 2230 10 turn with a strengthened drivetrain? I might drop to 18 cells.

Well the first record was done with 24 cells I believe. So he had a 2400 watts of power at his running. You on 20 cells will only have 2000.

The veledrome isn't that great for a speed run. Its pretty rough. Especially for a 1/10th scale since it was always used for 1/5th scales.

To tell you the truth;

no 1/10th is capable of making it a durable ride with the 2230. no hopups are available to do this, you are on your own i'm affraid.. Again, a price you have to pay for breaking speedrecord.

If you want to know how a overmotorized BL car runs/feels like, get an RC18t with a mamba controller and a Wraith 7K motor on 3S lipo. Only a fraction of the price.

What are the mounting holes like on a 19 series compared to the holes on a 540? I have decided on a 1950. Now, when will rc-monster stock a 1950 5 turn? What is the difference between a high amp and a non high amp? The fastest car used 1000mAh 2/3 sub-C batteries. Could these really put out 100 watts each. He used an Aveox 1409/2Y 2-turn brushless motor. How many watts is this motor? Would this be more powerful than a 1950 5 turn high amp on 20 Sub C cells (normal size?

Chances are in the site says that there not out of stock, Mike has them. The 1950 mountholes are the same as a 540. Its the 22 series that are different.

What I would do is get a hyper buggy or something like that, slam it low and hook up some good quality street tire's. Like Serum said, there is no way any 1/10 onroad will survive the torque of a 2230. But even the 1950 is pushing the limit's if your going this sort of speed. These car's are simply not designed and made to do so. The buggy's however can deal with torque and speed. But 125 mph is still asking allot of every component.

I explained earlier that wattage begin's with the battery's. A good quality matched cell(NOT like the one's on ebay......) can put out 100 watt peak. So once again 20 cell's will give you 2000 watt's max. Say 1800 watt's since the motor don't have 100% efficiency.(resistance inside controller and motor, friction etc)

A 5 turn will be WAY to fast for 20 cell's. You'll blow either the motor or controller. I would stick with the 10 turn.

The hiamp version has 5.5 mm gold plug's instead of the 3.5 normal type motor's have. This is good cause 3.5 mm connector's can get loose easier.

I thought that the hi-amp motors dont have connectors?

Well, the highamps can be equipped with 5.5 plugs.

My 2250 has got this pathetic 3.5mm plugs on it.. It makes a nice connection with silicone wires and those plugs though..

They have the female part of the plug sticking out of the motor. So you can either solder the wire's straight into the plug or use a 5.5 connector.

Are you sure? All the ones i have seen only had wires sticking and the non-high amp had connectors. I dunno though. I'll check into it.

Well I thougt so. I just got my 1950 8 turn "hiamp" and it has the connector's, but the connector's only are 3.5 mm.

Yay, Lehner send me the wrong motor....

Mike, can I send this back to get the right motor? Or wait, mayb i'll just keep this and live with it. Payed more for a high amp version though... But it is only 16.75$ so I can live with that. We can take that off my current order Mike, but if you payed BK to send me a hiamp I got to send it back ofcourse.

I thought the motor could take 65,000 rpm. 5 turn =2508 rpm per volt * 1.2 volts per cell * 20 cells=60,192 rpm. 4808 rpm below limit, would this be safe?

18 cells would be 54172.8 rpm, or 10827.2 rpm below limit.

the problem is that if its turning that many rpms, it starts to run to hot and is inefficient. Try and stay around 40,000 rpms.

Can the 1950 6 turn high amp take 20 cells with extra cooling like a heat sink and fan? The are sold here in the rc-monster.com store.:027: How good are IB 4200 cells?

For cooling a brushless motor is it possible to drill a hole somewhere in the can, and connect a fan to a tube and the tube to the hole and blow air directly inside the motor? Do the holes on the end of the 1950 around the shaft go through to the inside of the motor?
Would this cooling method keep a 1950 5 turn hi-amp cool enough for 20 cells if also used with an external heat sink and extra fan? I was thinking of using an external heat sink the whole length of the motor (might need more than one), cooling fan fan to blow cool air over the heat sink, using nitro fuel line to blow air from a second cooling fan through a hole in the front endcap to the inside of the motor.

That won't work. Right behind the caseing are the winding's, so actually drilling in the case is not a really smart idea to do cause you will damage the winding's, and it won't help a bit.

Just get a rcm heatsink and a small fan on top and you'll be fine.

Just keep in within 40,000 rpms... It will run cooler, last longer, be more efficient, and powerful with the proper gearing. Also, The IB4200's are really good cells. I run them on my brushless E-Revo and they are great.

So a 6 turn is probably to high of rpms, what about a 7 turn?

I would go for a 7 or an 8.

The 8 turn works very well on 20 cells. I don't think you will have enough batteries to push the wattage for the car to run like it is supposed to. The 7 turn should push you to a good speed on 20 cells to.

Could I gear for a higher top speed in miles per hour on a 7 turn than a 6 turn 1950 on 20 cells?

Like already stated, a 6 would be to hot...A 7 or 8 would be the shizzle and yes, you can gear higher to compensate for the lower kv.

So as far as miles per hour top speed is concerned, the lower rpm motor is truely the faster one? Here is an article about my car with some good pictures. Can you guys comment on how stong you think the driveline is based on the pics, especially the center driveshaft and the differentialls? Look at them and tell me how much power you think they could take without breaking, they look strong to me but I have nothing else to compare to.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=604

i'm running a 1950/8 non high with 6s lipo (22.2v). i'm very pleased. it averages 90 degrees in tally,fl and at about 15-20 minutes my motor and esc (12020) are at about 150 degrees with 15t mod 1 pinion. tons of torque and speed. i will probably dream about driving my g2r tonight. awesome motor!

No, the lower the turn's the faster the motor goes. Only like Squee explained, with a 5 or 6 turn motor on 20 cell's the rpm will be way to high to gear it down and not blow a motor or controller. So the solution is to find a higher wind motor which has no problem to gear it for speed. You use the motor's torque to do that, not the rpm.

Onto the car, that center shaft will go. It's alum, it won't last long with the weight of 20 cell's. But how on earth can we judge the strength of this car by looking at some picture's?

If I get a new car, which one would have a stronger shaft to handdle the weight of 20 cells and still be a low pan chassis? How strong is a belt drive setup?