Not really yet. I'm still waiting for my new sheet of aluminum so I can make the ESC mounting plate (second try). The first one came out functional, but not perfect. I will try again. Does anyone know what size nut go on the end of the UE 6mm CVD's? My set did not come with the nuts.:grrrrrr:

Just use standard 6mm wheel nuts will fit the UE cvd"s,can you show us a pic off where you are up to,that would be great???

I'm planing on showing lots more pictures. I'm just waiting on more parts

I have fixed the slop in the front shaft with a piece of fuel tubing, and now have the perfect amount of play in the back shaft thanks to my father-in-law's bench grinder. Feels good to have a working drive-train!!!!!!!! As soon as I assemble the A-Arms and CVDs I will post pic's. Only problem I have right now is that I'm waiting on a set of hinge pins.

So what is everyone's opinion on Lunsford or UE"s Ti hinge pins?

I tried the lunsford ones on my crt.5 and found that they bent much easier than steel - I was very unimpressed.

Thanks for the info. I have already spent a lot of money. I don't to waste anymore.

I don't know about the UE pins, but lunsford will bend. Its not the pin's fault, its the design of the bulkhead and the fact it doesn't support the lower hinge pin at both ends. I believe the VBS from UE fixes this issue, I know the FLM bulks don't. Either way, I tear down my rc's over the winter, and one of the things I always had to do to the Maxx trucks was straighten the hinge pins. I put them on the flat part of my anvil and hammer down on the high spots till they're straight again. The titanium will get dinged up less and withstand a few more straightening sessions than the steel but its not worth the extra dough in my opinion. Sweet truck btw

Thanks so much. That means a lot from guys like you that been around this a lot longer than I have been. My brushless Emaxx is the first RC truck I have owned. I have only had it for a little over a year. Then I made the mistake of going from 4s to 6s and started breaking everything. I thought that I would just "RPM" everything and I would be happy..... Wrong as soon as I started looking at aluminum bulkheads I ended up here. I never thought I would end up starting my own build thread:surprised: but it has been fun and educational at the same time. I have learned a lot from guys like you and I have gotten most of my inspiration from all the posts and previous build threads. Thanks to all who have answered my numerous questions it has really helped.:yipi: I would not be this far along if it was not for all you guys.
Thanks.

This is an excellent build thread. I can't believe this is your first truck. Most people don't get bit by the bug on their first RC. I appreciate this thread more than most, I imagine, because you are ahead of me on the build and I am learning some very valuable info here.

What type of and thickness of aluminum are you using for the ESC mount?

I have a plate of half inch 6061 aluminium. From a place called speedy metals.

I was able to get a second set of UE A-arms as back up and they came with a set of UE shock towers. What type of body mount posts work with the UE's? They are round and I'm only familiar with the square posts from Traxxas and RPM.

Traxxas used to make round posts before (copying RPM and) switching over to the stronger square design. I don't know if UE ever made body posts, but you may be able to find some aftermarket aluminum ones on ebay or some old stock at some of the smaller online stores. I used to make my own out of aluminum rod as I kept breaking everything I tried when I landed big jumps wrong. Just need some small drill bits for the body clip holes.

Do you think using aluminum tubes will increase the chance of bending the shock towers?

I wouldn't recommend using alloy posts & towers, that will indeed increase the chances of bending the towers. Use short plastic posts and alloy towers for best results ( long posts in any material will be prone to bending or snapping... ). There are various options that should fit fine:

http://cgi.ebay.com/LOSI-LOSB2450-F-...item3f08ca82d5

http://cgi.ebay.com/88315-Body-Posts...item588ccdae99

http://cgi.ebay.com/Heng-Long-Land-O...item23106869b6

http://www.rcraveninc.com/category/e...odymountposts/

otherwise you can make your own from some nylon rod the correct diameter & cross drill it for the mounting screws and body clips ( 2mm drill bit should do the trick ).

Yes it would increase the chance of bending the shock tower and also it could bend any thing go with plastic ones form traxxas ones you will see them on ebay a broken body post is better than bending shock tower just my 2 cents???

The aluminum rod I used for the towers wasn't the best quality stuff and was definitely weaker than the New Era towers I had. But good looking out and I really like your nylon rod idea anyway. Easy to work with, no worries that it'll bend or break towers and it should be alot cheaper in the long run compared to buying posts made for a stock truck.

Sorry did not see that post,when i was doing my post suicideneil must of posted first that"s my story and i am sicking to it.lol:)

Yeah, you can buy a meter / yard of nylon rod ( Delrin usually ) for a couple bucks which is enough to make a dozen or more posts, compared to one set of posts which costs ~$5 or so. Seen it done a few times over the years and it works & looks fine + very cheap ofcourse.

Ok I don't have the hinge pins, but I made my second ESC plate. This is just a trial fit I will have to file and sand and then send all the parts to be anodized.

More.....

Even more.....

How did you get a red flm chassis by chance or is that not a flm chassis as it appears that it looks like what I have ???

Yeah I read that and looked at his site. I'd say he has no more than $2500 max into the most expensive one that shoots pepper spray balls with a M16 front sight and a fake suppressor.

I hope he's not raping the goverment and giving the rc world a bad name.

Yes that is an extended FLM chassis that I had anodized. I wish I waited because I had to notch the chassis where I mounted the center diff and I now have to re-anodize the chassis. Oh well I'm going to have a few more parts done to match the chassis as well.

If you don't mind me asking what's a rough cost of having a chassis done with the anodizing ??

Well here in Houston I found a shop that is willing to do "small" orders and they charge 45 dollars for the chassis and a few extra parts. They are usually very quick 3-4 days max.

That sounds good. Maybe when things get better financially for me I can break the truck down and box and ship it out unless I can find it cheaper locally.

one more pic

I still cant post full size pics. I have an account with photobucket and I have resized the pic but it still only posts thumbnails. What am I doing wrong?

You're uploading the pictures to the rc-monster server and they are displaying as attachments; what you need to be doing is just copy & paste the [ IMG ] tags that photobucket gives you as links underneath each picture when you are viewing your pictures on photobucket itself..

Great thanks as usual.http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/...edited-1-1.jpg

I think its the bottom of the 4 selections that you have the choice of copying the link in Photobucket that you paste here in the forums. If one don't post the way you want try to come back and edit the message and try another one right away.

Thanks I got it.

Does anyone know of discount codes for RC superstore? or even tower hobbies?

Well now that the ESC plate is complete, and I have all the parts that I want to anodize together, I sent those as well as the chassis to be anodized ( the chassis re-anodized). I hope this will be the last trip to that shop for awhile. I should have the parts back tomorrow. I sent them off on Monday back on Thursday, not a bad deal. I also got word from Mike that my hinge pins have already shipped. So I hope that I will get all the parts by Friday, and I can begin final assembly!!!!!! I have also have ordered the Castle fan for my 1515y motor. Do you think this motor will be enough for this set up? If not what should I get. I am set on 6s since I already have the batteries.

Love the build so far, can't wait to see it come together.

Bigger is always better when it comes to motors. But the 1515 1y is a versatile motor, try it out and see if it suits your needs. It'll depend alot on your gearing, how fast you want to go and driving style. The longer cc 1518 and 1520 with their lower Kv and higher torque are more suited to 6s use and heavier trucks compared to the 1515 though. But you may have trouble fitting a longer motor in your setup without hitting the esc though. Have you run any numbers in any gear calcs?

Edit: I just ran some numbers based on your buggy ratio diffs, 46t spur, 2200kv and 6s. With 5.8 inch diameter tires and 8t pinion you'll be at 45mph without tire ballooning. Personally, I'd run a larger spur and possibly a lower kv motor to open up some gearing options, especially if you want to run larger tires. Pinions that small tend to wear quicker too. Can't hurt to try out what you have on hand either though.

Thanks for the info and the complement Overdrive. I have 10 through 16 tooth pinion gears on hand from Mike so I will try them and check temps. Is the 1518 a 4 pole motor? I've heard that 4 pole motor will hold up better. I'm not sure I want to go to a longer motor though, because I've put a lot of effort into this to get everything lined up perfectly and I'm so close to getting this thing done that I don't want to have to re-do a mounting plate. My neighbor Kyle probably wants his drill press back by now I keep telling him I'm almost done and he says it's no problem, but I don't want to take advantage of his generosity.

The 1518 and 1520 I mentioned are Castle motors, and yes they are 4 pole. They are both discontinued by Castle, but the specs are still up on their site and you can find the motors in Mike's store still. 4 pole motors generally have more torque than similar size 2 pole motors and are more efficient, so yes they generally run cooler and hold up better.

Try the 10t pinion with the smallest set of tires you have first and go from there. If it runs to hot or is too fast for your needs then you'll have to make some descisions. Smaller pinion and or larger spur, bigger motor or just one with a lower Kv, etc.

"Too fast"......is there such a thing?