IIRC, the 33A Quark FETs are more exposed - kinda like the CC Mamba (regular series). It would be a simple matter to pull the heatshrink off, add a heatsink, install new shrink, and then cut a little square into the shrink (like how BL Warriors are made). Not sure if it's "needed", but it sure can't hurt.

If it isn't 'needed', then i won't bother. Every time i've done something that isn't needed, everything has gone horribly wrong :mdr:

It may not be needed, but it may help the controller's longevity because it is kept cooler. I did that mod to a Mamba25 ESC and it REALLY helped temps.

Dont you trust my opinion Matt :na:

All the 'larger' car escs are made like the 125b with the alu case, but those little universal ones are just shrink wrapped like Brian said, so working on them is vastly easier- you can really go wrong in just sticking on a heat sink & adding new wrap. Or can you....:whistle:

I never had any heat problems with my Quark 33A.

Don't worry it's going to be in the path of air so i should be fine. I don't really want to void the warranty just in case it breaks on it's own, but i will probbaly put a fan on it.

microbump.
it appears i have cracked the front diff case.. i was hearing squeeking and started to clean the truck up, and i just noticed this:
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/6133/p9191215pl6.jpg

the 5000's are a tad bigger than the 4000's, but fit my battery holders fine:
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/6893/p9191220wu5.jpg

posing :)
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/1361/p9191225up3.jpg
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/3818/p9191233yc3.jpg
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/6433/p9191229ey1.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/7745/p9191230xz3.jpg

batteries are soldered, and everything's ready to go.. i'm leaving the cracked diff case, for now, because i don't have a spare. hopefully it'll run ok.

Don't know how something like that happens. Truck looks great!! How are the TrueRC packs doing? So you are running the packs in parallel, eh? What kind of run times are you getting?

i loved my old packs, havn't run these packs yet. i'll run the truck on saturday to make sure it's in check, and race sunday. yep, parallel. 10,000mah and 100/150 amps. conservatively. i've yet to run the truck till the batts run out, but i'd estimate 30min w/ the 4000mah packs. dunno about the 5k's.

Are you running the 3s pack opposite the motor? The set up is still the same as in your signature, correct?

Sorry for all the questions, I am just wondering because I plan to convert a truggy after my Revo gets finished.

no 3s pack. two 5s1p packs in parallel, so 5s2p total. the small 3s pack in the picture a page back, is for my transmiter.

Does running packs in parallel make it harder to balance them? That is what I have heard...

Is there a decrease in weight when running two packs in parallel rather than running two packs in series equaling the same voltage and mAH?

Well lipo cells vary a minute amount in energy density depending on the mah, and shape of the cell... so, it could very well be that one way might be a little lighter than the other (2p vs. a larger 1p), but I don't know which is the best way. Also, if you have to do more wiring, that will add mass as well, and connectors. Who knows? :neutral:

Using the same number of the same type of cells (2x 5s1p or 1x 3s2p + 1x 2s2p) the total weight should the same. There might be a slight difference in the amount of wire, depending on how it's done, but it wouldn't be noticeable.
I think the best thing about using 2x 5s1p packs instead of a 3s2p and a 2s2p would be the balanced weight.

Cells in parallel should balance each other, so it shouldn't be much different I wouldn't think.

Yeah, the 'should' balance each other, not if you have two whole packs in parallel. Each cell in the whole pack would have to be paralleled to do that... is that what you are talking about?

In a 5s1p pack by it's self none will balance each other, because they're in series. But when you connect the two 5s1p packs together to make 5s2p then cell number 1 from pack 1 should balance with cell 1 from pack 2 and cell 2 from pack 1 with cell 2 from pack 2 and so on. So balancing a 5s2p pack should be like balancing a 5s1p pack, because the parallel cells will take care of themselves.
That's why you'd also want to have the 2 packs as close in charge level as possible before you connect them, otherwise they will balance each other very quickly.

i just drove the truck for ~65 minutes straight.. not race pace.. it was night driving.. mostly, high speed passes, and wheelie stands.. i'm balancing the packs now, and will post the charge info in a bit.. along w/ w/e video was picked up w/ the night vision... i was driving w/ the light of surrounding houses (not recomended)..

Thats it. I'm getting a 10,000 packs for my next conversion. 65 minutes.... thats incredible!! How were temps at the end of the run?

Why, it's not like the 2.5d has that much power on 5s :wink:
Did anything get hot running it for that long. I've noticed that with my 2.5 on 5s it only gets warm and the temp doesn't really change after about 10 minutes.

Keep in mind this time is HIGHLY dependent on how you drive, I can tell you that the way I drive, I would get roughly 40 mins out of a 10,000 pack.

Word, they get to their max temp after about 10 mins for me too, until they reach thermal equilibrium with the ambient air... they are just efficient motors, plain and simple! :rules:

I have a 1512/3D (1700kv) running 23 volts, thats 38,000rpm loaded, and it only gets up to 110F now that it's cooler outside here. I am hard running as well, not bad for a smaller motor.

agreed, that's my estimate at race pace, as well. the packs were barely warm, controller was barely warm, and motor was barely more than slightly warm.. honestly, every time I nailed the throttle, it was on it's lid.. soo much power.. and it's geared for 50mph right now.. I'll update again after I race tommorow.

update. here's an new pic of my truck / rc station:
http://img86.imageshack.us/img86/2152/pa220001ls1.jpg

here's all the parts i've broken so far, well except for spur gears.. maybe a dozen of those lol
http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/1263/pa220006yv9.jpg

i knew i heard something clicking under acceleration.. rear diff:
http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2941/pa220004fk2.jpg

i'm going to change the layout of the truck, and hopefully get the weight distributed a little more to the front.. i'm not sure if i should do that first, or get a InfernoGT, and rallify it.. suggestions?

Same thing with the diff happened to me today.

I'd say get the LSP running again, and then move on to the Inferno GT.

what exactly is wrong?

i tore it apart, and i'm not sure what isn't right..
http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/4638/pa220003ty1.jpg

the part on the bottom right, above the grub and the pin is the part that lets that output move the way it is.. but it seems to just sit in the diff case? first time i've torn apart one of the front/rear diffs.. i'm not sure i'm seeing how it's actually broken..

The plastic case broke. See the peace on the right above the set screw? That should not come out of the plastic gear case. That's what happened to mine. The misalignment causes the gears to eat each other up. You can get a new one on e-bay at "nitrorchobbies" at a good price.

hmm. how's it normally stay in place? glue? lol. just placed an order..

2 x HBSC8100 Hot Bodies 6.8mm Ball End (4), (Lightning Series) $3.38

1 x HBSC8097 Hot Bodies 6.8mm Ball (4), (Lightning Series) $2.19

1 x HBSC8011 Hot Bodies 17 Degree Front Hub Carriers (Lightning Series) $4.09

1 x HBSC8008 Hot Bodies Rear Wheel Hubs (Lightning Series) $3.69

1 x KHZ-KP-820-56 King Headz Hot Bodies Lightning Toe-In Plate Set 56mm - Black $22.99

2 x HBSC8217 Hot Bodies Diff Case Screw Sets (Lightning Series) $9.38

1 x MUGB0322 Mugen Silicone Diff Oil 5,000wt $5.99

2 x HBSC8009-2 Hot Bodies Heavy Duty Front/Rear Differential Bulkhead (Lightning Series) $11.98

1 x MUGB0323 Mugen Silicone Diff Oil 7,000wt $5.99

1 x LOSA3505 Team Losi Differential Seal Set: 8B/8T $2.99

1 x SWK9011 Sportwerks CVD Rubber Boots, Black: Turmoil (6) $5.25

1 x HBSC8178 Hot Bodies Front/Rear Hardened Differential (Lightning Stadium) $40.99

Total: $118.91


new balance: <$10 :(

ok, so my lsp's on hold for a short period, while I try out my mt2 w/ the same setup, but 1p.

here's my new goodies for the lsp:
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6571/pa301133wf9.jpg

and in two days, i had my mt2 built and in this stage:
http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/4384/pa301138uh2.jpg
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/7066/pa301137er8.jpg
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/8484/pa301139dl5.jpg

yeah, over powered, and w/ hyper7 shocks on it, it should be a good jumper :)

lol, but not very good at steering. :lol: :wink:

Just a little overkill... :lol: Should be a fun test though. :smile:

har har lol. that's a last minute thing.. i'm trying to find something to use as a battery box, so it's fully enclosed.. any ideas?

Its insert molded into the case. If its not still attached its broke.

haha thanks jeff. like an hour ago i was wondering when someone would answer that question for me. perfect timing :)

just ordered two battery holders/cases.. however you want to look at it lol.

http://www.boxenclosures.com/categor...id=122603&ad=1
http://www.boxenclosures.com/templat...ts/B4080BK.jpg

well I got the cases.. but ugh.. not the best company? or someone just being lazy? 2 silver end plates, and only 1 black end plate..

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/4307/19yh4.jpg

the bigger problem, is they're 1/8" too short for my 5Ah packs. my 4Ah pack fits, but just BARELY.. it stays in from the friction on the ends.. I'm planning on returning one of the cases for a refund, and keeping the other one for my MT2. I figure I'll most likely get smaller packs in the future for the MT2.. if I ever get new packs for it..
but, with foam on the bottom sides and top.. do you think the pack will be ok, say if the truck dropped 30 feet onto it's nose? it just doesn't seem like a good idea incase of a front/rear impact. but the heatshrink and wires and plastic and tape will all reduce some of the impact. anyways, here's the pics i just took.

w/ the 5s1p 4Ah pack:
http://img161.imageshack.us/img161/152/12ab8.jpg
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/7700/10jf7.jpg

here you can see the 5Ah pack just barely doesn't fit :(
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9085/18se0.jpg


oooh i just had an idea... think if I screw four holes through the side of the case, and zip tie the quark to it, it'll work as a big enough heat sink? :)

Hmm, I always think its better to have a plastic battery tray that will absorb any impacts (to a point), rather than transfer them to whatevers inside= batteries. I would send them both back and make something yourelf like BrianG did, much lighter and custom made to fit a specific battery perfectly. My thinking anyway...

To get around the length limitation, you could cut the box in half. You'd have a little gap in the middle, but could use this feature as an adjustment for different length batteries.

Also, since the box is to encase lipos, I wouldn't use it as an ESC heatsink since that will just make the cells hotter.

Other than that, it's a good idea. It's just too bad they aren't a perfect fit so you don't have as much wasted space internally. If the body still fits, I guess it doesn't matter...

As far as the trays I make; they aren't that hard or challenging - just time consuming with archaic tools. :smile: The benefit is that you can get an exact fit like neil stated. Some people even use hacked plastic trays from other vehicles, angled CF pieces (but be careful! CF is conductive!), angled Al, etc. You could even make fiberglass trays if weight is a big concern...

the reason i wanted to use this kind of holder on this truck, is because the only reason im building this truck, is for jumping biiig jumps.. i was satisfied on my trays in my lsp-r, but they were a little "hack".. when i saw these, i figured i could use them on the lsp as well, as they are just about bullet proof.. back to the drawing board =\

I am making a battery tray made out of kydex right now, that I got from rchippie. I cut out the correct length, width, etc. Now i just need to find a heat gun to bend over the side. I'll let you know how strong it is, but it seems to be very sturdy at the moment...