hey dicky, what was your method when doing the lock out 2nd gear. I don't get how to cut through the metal piece and make that U shape 3 corners.

Take a look here CharLemagne:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7441

I have the tekno mount on the truck now. I rather like it.i may change it later when I get access to tools to cut this 3mm CF sheet i have. I tried with a dremel and it just takes way to long.


@ CharLemagne, i used a dremel and slowly ground the indentions in.

where can i find a good dremel?

Any hardware store. Otherwise, just buy some small files.

is it a necessity to lock out the two speed what are the advantages with it???

No it's not a necessity. If you do it means you can use motor braking and reverse. Apart from the fact that I can't use motor braking (ESC doesn't do it properly) I don't want to lock mine because starting in second, and using the esc to brake will put more load on the esc and make it heat up more.

awesome freaking conversion man. I am actually going to be starting mine tomorrow. You have inspired me and showed some good resources on how to do a good conversion.

I am actually interested in using the novak HV 4.5 setup with the 3amp HV bec unit which allows the HV up to 7s lipos/22 nimh. While I think 7s LiPo would be just stupid fast (and cook the internals) it is nice that it would allow for a 5s without worry.

http://www.teamnovak.com/products/BEC/index.html

What are thoughts on that? I would probably lock the 2nd gear add the 5mm sintered rotor. What types of gearing would be used etc?

Do you see a benefit in this system..

I had actually considered going the route of the NEU w/ a quark monster pro but I am not much of a MM fan (seen too many fried.. and cogging.. ugh - although I hear the new software fixed that)

Also, w/ the release of the new e-maxx with revo slipper.. those spur gears will now fit on to the stock revo.. however there is problem of the size of them. They may not fit without a bit more modding of the rcm revo electric motor mount (spacing and meshing). Anyone tried?

Just some thoughts.. :mdr:

Thanks! I'm not a fan of sensored systems, and do not know how you would want to gear that. search the forums for it or start a thread. I have zero cogging with the MM after the update, but it is going back to it's 5700 motor soon.

I crashed the Revo, right front wheel first into a tree last night at over 40mph when the radio glitched. I stripped my steering servo.

Woke up this morning and ordered a Quark 125b, then went to lhs and got a Spektrum DX3R and JR DS8611A 320oz. servo. :D

5s to the Neu soon!

the servo will that turn the two front tires well thanks

that is an understatement. I though the 645mg with digital board replacement did well, in comparison it felt sloppy.

I just had my 1st successful test run on 5s. I tried last night and shredded the front diff underbraking. next item to save for rc-m diffs ;)

Tonight went well. I ended this run with braking toned down on the radio to 70% but spun the nut off the slipper in reverse.

The CD kinda helps keep the front end down. but mostly it just unloads to the fronts hard and wheelies anyway, even with ofna diff lock lube in. Is there anything thicker than that stuff?

5s is ridiculously overpowered. My next lipo packs will be 4s and save the 5s for vulgar displays of power.

I will shoot video on satuday.

Nice! Are you still running the Mamba or did your quark come in?

I think you have convinced me to stck with 4s for now. I ended up with the same motor you have but I am running it on a Mamba Max /cc bec 4s. I am in the process of hunting down a quark.

Can't wait to see the videos!

the thing with the center dif, if you go even thicker then it will wheelie more. it's like make a solid shaft down the center. the thicker it is, the more weight it transfers evenly to both axles. with it locked you turn both and it will wheelie. when a center dif unloads under acceleration, you'll see the front wheels ballooning because of weight transfer to the rear, making the front light and power unloads there.

I am not trying to be argumentative, or insulting. just my opinion on difs. personally I like thinner oils in difs so they actually work. center is different than the 2 ends but you get no dif action from dif lock, well very little at all anyway.

try 30k and I bet you'll have tamed the wheelies down, even 40K

I was talking about the center diff, I do not have diff lock in the front or rear, They still have oem grease in them, and the lock lube does not lock center i can freely move it by hand. It is a hair thicker than 500k, but does not lock like silly putty would. the fronts balloon horribly. I've gotten a bit more used to it and can get fast acceleration with out wheelies now, but at WOT with all 4 planted the fronts still turn into dinner plates. I put the spool back in and all it wants to do is wheelie at any speed.

all done, dialing in time :D

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...vowithlipo.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y17...owithlipo2.jpg

I'm in the same boat with you Dicky. For the moment I have chosen to run the solid center shaft as I just lose too much power using the CD. I don't think that there is a way to get the revo CD to work well using the 1Y on 5s as it is just too much power for it to handle.

I have found that by using a little punch control and carefully setting the slipper that so long as I don't nail the throttle the wheelies are not too big a problem. I'm also toying with a couple ideas for using a 1/8 scale CD which will handle the power better and should be a much better solution.

i can't wait to see it with 5s lipo. I seen 5s lipo before and you can't even go past some certain speeds because of the tires ballooning.

or the front wheels coming off the ground. it is ridiculously overpowered. I will post video in the general section of the site after filming tomorrow.

Have you tried the Duct Tape mod for your tires to prevent the balloning? it doesn't get rid of it completely but it does help

duct tape, gaffers tape, all weather duct tape, gorilla tape, it rips any of it off in about 30 seconds of WOT.

Dicky T

just an idea I had while reading your post, try applying some type of glue/resin to the inside of the tire to cause the rubber to harden/stiffen, and reinforce, put the tire back on rim similar to the Duct tape mod and possibly use beadlock style rims( this may make it easier to get back on the rim) they have some at Impact, here is a link



http://www.impaktrc.com/product_info...roducts_id=183


I would try this myself, my Revo is still the beginning stage, I still need to remove 1st gear, do the FOC, and CD mods to the tranny and remove the gas componenets from the truck, the only things I need are the motor/esc

How do you like the Quark vs the MM?, I do enjoy how the MM is user friendly

On the second run of the day my quark fried. I am having horrible esc luck lately. :(

I came around a corner and punched it for a straight, the truck got about 10 feet down the straight and died, then the white smoke stared billowing out...

Prior to frying I loved it. it is much smoother then the MM with Neu.

Oh man.. that's harsh.. I am expecting my quark any day now to go with my 1515/1.5d.

I have heard of them frying without any kind of cooling when using over 4s lipo's.

If you had a chance to do it over with the quark, what would it be? I am thinking of just using 4s lipos and being happy with that amount of power.

Sorry to hear of the bad luck with ESC's... might be time to go MGM?

I wanted an MGM, Mike was out of stock. I'll send the quark in for repairs and I am not certain what i'll do.

Which MGM were ya gonna go after?

16018

Hey I was wondering what body is that you have on it? Looks Nice Man

Looks like the Desert Rat from Proline.

Love the build up though I'd say 5s with that motor is too much.

Question, how is the balance with that huge battery on one side? Also, have you considered any way to move the battery further forward? I'm planning a conversion but I want that battery up where your servo is, I can do only one servo for steering, just not sure how the tray would mount and I don't think the Techno is big enough for a 6000mAH battery...

I have considered moving it forward and moving the servo to the other side. It is a bit biased to the battery side with that battery. I will get a 25c 5000mah enerland pack next that will not be 2p and balance the truck out.

ordered these this morning: http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...flmrvdf&cat=44 :) thanks Mike!

Dicky you will love them. The only problem I had with my 1/8s was shimming them. I felt like a 2 year old. :oops:I eventually sent them to mike and he did them for me.

what size shims do i need? I'm fine with shimming them but do not know which shims to get.

I would like to know this too, what kind of shims and how thick? Long time, no see DickyT, u may have posted elsewhere though, anyway glad to see u posting again.:intello:

I don't know if the Revo diffs are different than the E-Maxx (I have HPI buggy diffs in FLM hybrids).

I think 6 and 10 mm shims, IIRC.

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...-maxx+shim+mod

I post here daily, just not always in the revo forum ;)

I guess i'm always on a different part of the forum at a different time:rofl:.