thanks man, that helped alot:yes:



mriccucci- from center of front diff to rear diff just a little over 15 inches, total truck length from front to back almost 19 inches. Yes its long but what I learned from the nitro twin is that length means stability at high speeds.

Shocks are jammin big bores.

WOOOOOOHOOOOO!!

My buddy bill hooked up a smoken deal on these MOFO"S!

http://img224.imageshack.us/img224/9...wers001jf3.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/6...wers003cj1.jpg
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/7...wers002ks2.jpg

Wish I was a friend of Bill :party:

Damn!! That thing'll rip! You mind introducing Bill to me? :mdr:

Awsome.
 

Dude that is one awsome ride you have put together there. It looked pretty great what you started with, but every time you post up new photos and we get to see a little bit more. That is a great work of art that you have created. Congeratulations on those battery packs as well. That is one cool friend you have there. Now get that thing finished and post up some results of your hard work. Way to go itsme.

all i can say is :surprised: this thing looks amazing keep up the good work. I picked up some 1/8" 6061 yesterday from a local place. Im going to hopefully start work today or tomorrow on it.

Thank you guys!! I cant wait to see this thing run aswell!

Keep up the good work man. I got some drive shafts yesterday and got everything together today but i think im a little long. My main purpose was to run my truck in the truggy class but im a little over 16" wheel base with just about 23" overall length. What driveshafts did you use It's me?

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/4428/img1119jk2.jpg

I was also wondering if you have some shputs of how you ran the steering setup?

Ok so no need for the driveshafts i got a muggy center shaft, and im using a muggy front cv for the front center. Puts my wheelbase right around 14.5-14.75" I started mocking everything up and will hopefully be running by next weekend.

http://cgi.ebay.com/T-MAXX-DOMINATOR...QQcmdZViewItem If you fancy a massive short cut....

Well no need for that now, all i have to do is decide on braces and a chassis width. I have the main part of the chassis laid out with the centerdiff and front and rear bulks in place.

its me or mricucci- any progress? I've been watching!

LOL im almost done, all I need are the monster maxes. I need one to get the foot print so I can cut some carbon for its tray, after I do that then most of the parts are going to MRpaintin.com to get black anoed. Only the diffs and chassis are going to stay silver :)

EDIT* sample of Matt and Ross's work:)
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...502#post164502

I've also been busy, im deffinatly not very good with the jigsaw and dremal but i think i may be able to get a local guy to laser cut another chassis plate.

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/5978/img1126fz0.jpg

http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/2294/img1128mr4.jpg

My plan is to make some plates to go from the braces to the bulkheads like its me did. I think i may extend them a little on each side. Im going to cut the chassis dont a lot more, prolly about 5-7 inches wide. I've got 14.5 inches of wheel base so im just about at the truggy lenght. The only thing i need now is to find a body that would fit.

looking good

would any one happen to know the foot print of the MMM???

2.2"x1.9"

Thanks man!! I can start on the speed control trays now!

I didn't feel like reading through the thread and don't know if this has been mentioned yet. You are going to want to run the batteries and esc's in parallel, so they see the exact same voltage. It will also require pulling the red bec wire from one esc reciever connection, so only one esc feeds the reciever power. Might wanna make the front top plate bigger to hold a steering servo. If you knew all this nevermind, I just want to see it run!

Good info and thank you, I am a absolute noob when it come to electric. The steering servo will actually end up under the top plate, so that whole area is good to go for electronics only :)

Ok so i got my top plate fabed up, and the 8ight shocks came in yesterday. Body will be here today sometime, deciding on a color scheme for it.

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/9665/img1134sm1.jpg

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/9682/img1135ft2.jpg

Im going to need to do some R&D on the shock oil and springs, these things are a whole new ball game.

Yep, they are. I think you need the stiffest springs really, since you are only running four of them, although it will depend very much on how heavy it is once all is said and done.

lol the newest member of the grape gang :lol:

Im actully thinking of using the fron springs on the rear, I have the collars down all the way and i was thinking it wouldnt be so bad to run These

Hmm, if those grey ones are the stock front springs, I wouldnt recommend them, especially on the longer rear shocks. They are not as stiff as you'd expect- rather squishy to be honest :neutral:

Im pretty sure the stock are silver not gray at least i hope

A nice surprise :)

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3...stermaxil7.jpg

Im not sure man, that might not provide enough power....


:D

LOL! thanks neil! just finishing up some final stuff on the truck and then its out to MR paintin for ano.

Better pics
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/3...art2001zj1.jpg
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/2...art2002lg3.jpg
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/1...art2003dp9.jpg
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/1...art2004pz8.jpg


been dreaming of putting these suckers in for a while now!

Ooohh, my gosh!!!!!!:surprised::surprised:It, it, it is beautiful... I have tears in my eyes.:lol: I'm going to sell everything to build something like that:mdr::mdr::tongue::tongue:

wow thats crazy. nice build dude. its kinda making me want to do something like this to my revo lol.

Looks great bro....!!

Thanks guys! and I got a really good question for you...LOL


How in the hell do I wire this thing together..yes I know ima noob LOL

Do I need a Ubec and how many LVC do i need?? one for each batt?

No UBEC or LVCs required, they are built into the escs. All you need to do is use a Y-splitter to join both escs to the receiver (throttle channel). Only important thing to remember is that both escs need to be pregrammed exactly the same, to prevent the motors fighting eachother as they spin. This should help:

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...lharnessv3.jpg

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n...lelharness.jpg

I would also suggest using that parallel battery harness to ensure both batteries discharge evenly, and hit LVC together- you dont want one motor to stop working, as the tall gearing will quickly overload the other motor if it has to do all the work itself. Wait until the V-twin guys see this truck, they will soil themselves... :lol:

Fabulous Info
 

Great info Neil, and itsme that truck is really turning out to be a kind of ICON of sorts. That layout is one of the nicest looking builds that we have seen. Very symetrical and clean. I like that harness for the twin ESC power. Since we know you will do it I am interested in seeing how it works out for you. With that much torque and raw power you should have no problem stomping the nitros, but actually handling that much power will be a real challenge. Just like the twin Big Maxximum build the drivetrain is going to undergo a tremendous amount of strain. If you have any weak points you will deffinitely get to see what they are. Good luck and keep up the good work.

Again thank you man!! After I get the ano done I will definetly get some video :)
Thanks man and the drive train is also something ive been wondering about, hopefully phatlines and throttle control will help some of that. Im excited to see this thing go :)

I have one of my flight powers with the red wire and black wire on opposite sides, question is can I remove the clear heat shrink so I can move the black wire to the same side as the red or will I damage something?!?!?!

http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/6...wers003cj1.jpg

This build is sooo awesome, i love the pics with both the MMM's mounted, such a clean install!! Sorry im not much help with the battery Q, just thought id chime in :whistle:

jordan

Nope
 

No you will not hurt anything as long as you do not cut into the aluminum casing of the Lipo pack itself. The shrink wrap is nothing more than a nice way to keep everything looking good and in a neat package. If you are worried about damaging the casing for warrenty purposes then get another piece of shrink wrap and replace it exactly as it is now once you have moved the wires the way you need them. No worries mate.