Are you out there Griffin?

Looks like inductors, do you see any coils inside?

All the rest is clear Fet's drivers with bootstrap caps and diodes.

Also looks like you lost couple via's in process of taking it apart, not good, but can be fixed.

I can try to fix it for you, but later in April :(

I noticed the coupler. I can fix that.

What I'm really wondering is:

Can I remove the regulator altogether and power the brain board with an external regulator that feeds 5 volts IN through the red wire?

I don't see any reasons why not, but looks like you have two DC-DC convertors, so you need to remove diode/inductor/resistors from first one and than check if second one is still working (from smoked inductor I think it is dead too).

So to make it happy again you need to restore 5V and 12V for MCU. How you are going to do that it is up to you. I would rather check datasheet on both DC-DC convertors and fix them properly.

Are you sure MCU is not dead?

I have to go get my daughter at school now, but if I have some time, I'll take a picture of what I got a few months ago. It is surprising. Artur, I might send a couple more stuff for you my friend LOL.

I'm getting :diablo: trying to figure out who makes the driver of the picture posted by sikeston34m and now I can't find the manufacturer of the MOSFET (Edit: I found the MOSFET manufacturer) of the ESC in the pictures I have attached, but look at the brain board, it looks identical and the onlu differance are a few colors of some components and the drivers are from IRF (IR2103S). Good things will come out of this. I'll go take some pictures of the big car controller with this one to see if we get a match :yipi:.

They are the same size, but the little one was closer to the camera and it seems bigger. I also attached a side view of the little controller.

And 3 more.

oooh, the controller looks similar. I got mine working again. Gonna test it some more tomorrow.

Did some more testing during my lunch hour. This is what I found:

It will not run the 7700kv mamba motor, even with 2s2p A123. Just sits there and stutters. However it does run the 3500kv c40 hacker motor on both 2s and 4s without issues. The esc was barely warm after the packs dumped.

How does it run on 10S???...lol. That is what I'm waiting for...hehe

:lol::lol::rofl::rofl: 10 AA batteries. I'll leave it alone for now. Put some foamies in the rear for the next TNT dragrace.

The MGM 16018-3 handles up to 6S lipos and up to 18NC cells. Now the controllers I posted pics of also handle up to 18NC cells, but it handles up to 5S lipos. Can those controllers actually handle 6S like the MGM?

Dunno man. But 5s would be the max I would put through mine. Maybe if I upgraded all the fets it would do 6s. I might try it out in the rustler that has 6s A123, and use small gearing with 3750kv hacker.

Any updates? I just ordered 2 of these escs with a programing card. I'll put them through their paces when i receive them.

Last saturday I was running 4s A123 with the ESC untill the cells dumped. Nothing happend and there was plenty of power on tap.

Thats good news. Thanks. I will be running 4S. Did you use external BEC?

Nope, just the internal bec.

Ok so from what im reading this is a good alternative for a basher on a budget? Im pretty decent at soldering SMT and through hole so im wondering if any of you have a list of mods that i could do to beef this up, and run this in an emaxx or possibly a rustler.

We have listed a few MOSFETs that would do good and you might also want to change the capacitors. I'm waiting for GriffinRU to let me know if a MCU swap was successful and after that I will ask him to swap brain boards with another controller I have that seems to use the same board as the car controller. Pictures can be found in this thread.

The caps are the first thing I would replace on that controller.

I will try the controller stock as I don't plan on running more than 4S.

:yes:

Which ESC's are those? Do they have a brake??

I recognize them- Modelfun. There is/was a cmpany on fleebay selling them, but they have had serp stock for a while- they are proper car/truck escs though, with good specs too....

Man oh man, can you please help me sink my esc to my reciver. The modellfun instructions suck!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please!

I also had some problems with mine. I think you have to set your end points. Sometimes mine worked and sometimes it didn't.

end point on my remote? What should they be set at?Do you plug the battery in on full throttle and then go to reverse. I just get the two beeps.

I made a mistake. What I did sometimes is a calibration of the controller. I only played with it for 1 day and I had the beeps like you. So I played with it some more and I held full throttle, plugged the pack and then I went full brake and then neutral. I haven't played with it much as I plan on switching the brain board with another controller.

Once it beeps, I push the throttle in reverse and hold it untill it starts to beep rapidly. Then I push the into the forward mode and let go. The beeping will stop after a few seconds. Then wait a sec or so and the ESC is armed and ready to go.

Ok. That seems easier. I know you can do both ways.

modellfun instructions
 

The instructions that come with modellfun esc's are horrible, I've been trying to sink my esc with my reciver with no luck. If any one has any input please help me out. This is what I have so far, and I don't know if it's right.




1. Remote on and all settings to neutral (factory settings)?
2. Motor connected to esc and esc to reciver
3. Plug up your battery and you will hear two beeps?
4. Move throttle in to full reverse until it beeps rapidly? How long?
5. Then move the throttle to full forward. How long before you let go? Should I get any beeps before I let go, if so what kind?
6.The beeping will stop after a few seconds (which series of beeps)? Just wait a few seconds and the esc will be armed.
7. Do you need to remove the power and plug back in to operate?




If anyone else wants to give their input, please do so. You can edit the whole thing if I'm off on anything, I'm trying to get some instructions like the mamba because I don't seem to be smart enough to program these esc's with the modellfun directions.

I did the second setting on mine:

1. --no need to set up Throttle itinerary ---- startup process

pull throttle into the lowest position -- → ESC power connecting → Detect and get throttle signal one beep tone "beep" → 3 seconds delay → detected throttle lowest position → one beep tone "beep" again → can start throttle Moved.( start flying). this step total beep twice . there had light on ESC when each beep tone .


If not detected throttle signal, "beep, beep and beep ... " continued beep tones are emitted.

If the battery voltage exceeds voltage, "BEEP, BEEP, BEEP ." continued beep tones are emitted. the beep tone

pause for a bit longer,Under such circumstances, ESC refused to start motor.

2.need to set up Throttle itinerary ---- startup process


pull throttle to the highest position -- → ESC power connecting → Detect and get throttle signal one beep tone "beep" → detected maximum throttle position, "beep" tone is emitted (one beep tone) → then pull to the lowest throttle position → 3 seconds of delay → "beep" tone is emitted once, Detected the lowest throttle position → can start lifting the throttle. three beep tone is emitted .

Note : This method set up the throttle itinerary is not saved. throttle itinerary can be set up and saved permanently by our programm card.

I hope this works for everyone.

I'm sorry to ask you this but what is a Throttle itinerary? I'm getting the over voltage 3 beeps even with a 7.4 volt pack

I'm sorry to ask you this but what is a Throttle itinerary? I'm getting the over voltage 3 beeps even with a 7.4 volt pack and when I let off I get a steady two beeps.

It's another term for calibration. It's to recognize full throttle and full brake.

Anybody want one of these controllers.
 

Any body want a 120a modellfun esc and programmer minus the caps. 50$:rules:

Yes,
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