LOL, i prefer the tapping way though.. :p No need to use loctite though.. Don't try this with 7075 aluminium either.. ;)

Yeah, I figured you either bought them or cut them by hand and used a thread tapper.

I ended up making brackets out of 1/8" aluminum, but they are kinda big and not as neat and tidy as yours. I tried making some really small ones so the servo would sit lower and the wires were under the chassis plate like yours, but found that the wires run into the servo guard and would require modification (which I didn't want to do for the sake of ease and speed of replacing some parts in the field).

The 2055 servo shown below is just for example - I plan on getting a fast (0.1 second or less) shifting servo sometime. Maybe a Hitec 5925 or something similar.

http://bgosselin.home.mchsi.com/e-re...ervomounts.jpg

Well, I've done pretty much everything I can until I get the cash for the radio, BL motor, ESC, faster shifting servo, center drive shafts, slipper/spur/pinion, more (and better) batteries, and assorted incidentals. This is what it currently looks like and will likely stay this way until a little after tax return time. Just thought I'd share my progress...

http://bgosselin.home.mchsi.com/e-re..._12-4-2005.jpg

Looks good, I like it.

A faster shifter servo is still on my list.

You should like it, it was based on your design! :)

What shifting servo are you thinking of? I think the Hitec 5925 is perfect speed-wise at .08 seconds, but is uneccessarily torquey at 127 oz-in - not to mention a little pricey for the use. Maybe the 925 may be a better choice at $18 cheaper. Still fast (0.08s) and has all the same features (bb, coreless, etc), but not digitial and has less torque (103 oz-in).

I was thinking that it was too bad that some of these BL motors didn't have a shaft at the other end as well. Would be a neat place to attach small fan blades to keep the motor cool...

:L: Yeah, you're right...but the black chassis makes all the difference.

I haven't really looked into shifter servos yet, but I think the fast Bluebird would be nice. Don't remember the number, but it was around 30 bucks.

Yes, I thought the same about the fan thing. Already thought about drilling a hole into the shaft on the motor backside, and attach some kind of fan...to bad the wires are in the way.

mine is so ugly....

lol, I don't think the black will last very long once it starts getting some use.

I've tried a BlueBird before and had problems with it burning up. Actually a number of people had the same thing happen. However, this was with a high torque steering servo and the issue was eventually found to be caused by the factory radio not having EPA. So, as long as there is some type of EPA on your radio, then a BlueBird should be fine - it's just a matter of making sure that the servo is not working too hard at the ends of it's throw.

Doh! I kinda forgot about the wires! Well, they would have to change the wire exit orientation to be more like Novak's BL motors for that to work I guess.

You don't want to been seen driving that around. You may as well give it to me. :D

lol, not until im done with it. U got a body to match with taht black/silver scheem?

Not really, just the standard Revo body (but is the black version). I thought it would look OK, but forgot about the engine hole! So, my Nitro Revo will inherit that body and I'll have to buy one for the electric one.

I'm pretty bummed out that I can't work on it much anymore for a couple of months for lack of funds. :( I'm sure I'll pick a few of the cheaper items, but it's at a standstill for the most part. I still have to figure out a transmission skid plate - the stock one doesn't quite fit even after modification. So I guess I'll be busy for another couple of days making that.

I originally planned to make this little by little so I would be ready for the expensive stuff at the same time as I had cash, but I guess I got a little over excited. :o I think I like building these more than driving them. :)

I know I asked this question somewhere, but can't remember where or find it:
Dafni, where did you get your center drive shafts? I noticed the stock ones aren't long enough and the tranny sits slightly to the left of the chassis centerline, which reduces the thickness of the shaft I can use for the rear (the bulkhead ends get in the way). Do the shafts telescope to be able to insert them where they need to go and then expand to lengthen over the output shafts - or does the tranny need to be "finagled" in while installing the drive shafts?

Yeah, I like building RCs too. Maybe that's why it's so hard to stop. ;)
Sorry to hear you run out of funds, I hope you can finish it soon. I finished my first Revo just a year ago...was busy on it over last x-mas holidays.

As for shafts, you can use maxx shafts as a temporary solution. I started with maxx sliders and they worked fine, but after a while I switched to (titanium) bones. Mike here can get you custom made dog bones. Steel will do. Just drop him an email.

Have fun
DAF

So, the maxx sliders held up fine under the torque of the BL setup. I suppose those would be easier to install since they can slide in to install and then slide out into the shaft outputs.

How did you install the custom dog bones since they don't telescope? Did you have to remove the front and back ends to fit them, or did you remove the tranny and work them in place while re-installing the tranny?

I measured the lengths I would need and came up with 93mm for the front and 98mm for the rear. These measurements are from the center of the tranny output shaft hole to the center of the rear/front differential shaft output hole. What lengths were yours? I imagine they were about the same +/- a mm or two since I am using the same setup.

Those nubers (hole to hole) sound pretty much like what I had. No big surprise, eh?! If I remember correctly, I just took 10mm off each lenght, and got the bones made to 83 and 88 mm (from pin to pin). They fit nicely, but I use some O-rings in the cups to keep them centered.
I don't really take them out much, but if I do, I take the whole f/r end off. Not a hard thing to do on a Revo anyway. My tranny usually stays in the chassis.

Thanks. So I assume the cups take up 10mm (5mm on each end). If that works, I'll email Mike for the cost of the custom lengths.