yea, but what would i use? dont want anything too heavy ya know and nothing that could puncture the lipo.

dude, you got AIM?

Sorry, no AIM here. I would suggest some kind of piece of plastic. Sorry, wish I could sketch out what I had in mind for you. Let me see what I can do.

Sorry it's rough, but this is the idea I had in mind:

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...3/IMG_4158.jpg

very very nice idea... this is what i was thinking but not sure how i can get it to stick. maybe some JB Weld... and MAYBE i could use that ESC mount for the parts??

why not just cut the outer lip off the tray?

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...y/IMG_1511.jpg

yeah? think thats my best bet? i kinda agree with you.. hmm..

well...its what I did, and it worked for me.

but I only did it because I didnt have the option to stand the battery up like you did.

I was trying to fit two batteries and stacking them didnt allow the body to fit correctly.

How is the stand-up method working? Do you think laying it down will improve handling?

I run a lot of mine in that configuration. Sitting up on thier side closer into the center of the chassis. They work fine. They seem to have a better balance left to right. Not as low of center of gravity but doesn't tilt to one side as much when jumping. If I ever get into racing and need to find that extra little that will win me a race. I might lay them down. It could just be the edge I need. LOL

Anyway one thing that helps hold my batteries a little better is I use door weatherstripping on them. When I strap them it it gives a little cushion or compression area so I can snug them down better. It really helps more on the flat chassis I have with out a tray though. Like the FLM chassis.

These are some old pics but might spark an idea how it might work for you.
http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...p/DSCF2735.jpg

Oh hey, check out my super swifter sweeper or what ever they are called. The red broom handled item to the left. I took it put some little wheels on it and attached the magnet from a 75 watt pioneer speaker to the bottom. Drop a 3mm screw on that tile patter and it's gone if you take your eye off it. I use to waste too much time looking for them. Now I just get a different screw from the bench and later on. Take the swifter and run it around a few time and get back a bunch of my screws, bearings, body clips, all kinds of metal things. Treasure hunt.

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...p/DSCF2734.jpg

hey, just wondering, did you get those steel gears yet? I'm running a similar system in my hyper 7, and had some bad experiences with spur/pinions but im working great now... at first I had a non hardened steel pinion and a plastic spur. the motor came loose, chipped out 2 teeth, but the next time i really gunned it it shaved the spur gear. i put a modded CEN 46t spurgear(cheapest spur i could find) and created the shank-a-ma-pinion! now I'm running all hardened steel, 13/46 and it is honestly no louder than the plastic spur gear! although it may be because of the plastic spacer that it is so quiet...
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...8269147187.jpg
the bald spur
http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/i...kamapinion.png
the shank-a-ma-pinion
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...6081722_01.jpg
the for some reason super quiet modded CEN spur gear

Gee, thats a good idea for finding lost screws and such.
im not too sure about the weather stripping. i dont think they even sell tat stuff down here in south florida. hahah ;) althought the center of gravity idea you said really might be true..

and i am still waiting on the parts to get here. i ended up going with RCM's spurs and pinion. i will only hope and pray it all gets here for the weekend and works out.

i think DickyT and I will be doing alot of reconfiguring on my buggy and soldering on his new toy.

I like Hoov's suggestion to just cut off the edge. That would work great for laying down the battery. The only reason not to do that is if you wanted to keep the tray in original condition. If it were me, I would probably just cut it.

i could care less about keeping it original. i jusy want to it be secure as possible and more so not damage the battery.

I cut the outside edge off my rcm tray, first bad landing and the front broke too sending my lipo slamming into the front. If you are going to do that then you need a long strap to retain battery front to back as well as 2 to prevent lateral movement.

Sower, your ESC mounting is great, but it will not fit under a buddy shell in that location ;)

lets take a poll here.. please raise your hand if you think the battery is 100% fine in its location. :)

update: all works great now. i need to loctite the pinion set screw though. came out twice in 20 min.