230W...
What the...

Link?

I only have a puny 60-80W iron..
Hmph.

I use this and I also have this for big jobs.

I would give you a link but Sears is updating their website again... :/ It's the Craftsman 150/230W soldering gun. #54046

Have you noticed any difference between them?

I have a very similar gun that has the same wattage as the Craftsman but by a different company. It has been sitting in it's box somewhere ever since I bought my Hakko. I find my Hakko and Weller soldering stations much more efficient and easier to use than a gun. This is my preference, yours is the gun and that's fine too.

Rebelgium:
As I haven't bought the Ultra plugs yet, no, but Mike (evonuI <- I think?) has told me that they will melt at high amps, so, I don't want to risk my packs and ESC. :neutral:

Here you go:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...54046&sLevel=0

Zippy decals
 

Some of my Zippy lipos did not have decals on them like the Flightmax series so I made my own. I just printed them on regular paper and stuck them with packing tape. If you want some for yourself, here's what I've made for my 3S and 4S zippys and a blank decal that you can put the mah, # of cells and C rating with a sharpie. It helps identify the lipo when the small writing on it starts to wear off.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...py_decals1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...s_3500_30c.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...s_5000_20c.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...ippy_blank.jpg

Hehe MC looks like you're going to need to replace those labels with Turnigy labels! ;)

The zippy's will be discontinued soon.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...298#post292298

Yes I read the thread about it. And just when I finished doing nice Flightmax decals :oh:

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...P_5000_30c.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...tmax_blank.jpg

A little update on how my ERBE is doing. I'm very happy with my Dean's up to now, they are doing very good, this weekend is the second race in the championship so they will be put to the ultimate test. The diff blocks are awsome, my front and rear diffs actually feel like they are more efficient since they absolutely don't move inside the bulkheads. The rear body mount brace is holding up very well.

I ordered 4 of the new Turnigy lipos from Hobby King to try out. On the Hobby King forum, there is a thread about a mistake that was made in the first run of Turnigys. Apparently, they are mislabeled as 15C/20C when in fact they are really 20C/30C cells inside. First thing I will do when I get them is to take the shrink off to see the printing on the cells, the C rating is usually printed on them.

Good to hear your upgrades are doing well.
Does all your work succeed in the first try? ;) :LOL:
I know you use fairly standard tools to machine your CF, but I'd love to know more details about it, because customizing my RC with homemade parts is the most fun in the whole of RC imo...:p

e.g. how do you go about making a CF motor plate?


btw:
I'm looking forward to hearing your opinion about the Turnigy cells, be it here or in the topic about them in the general forum...

I too would like to know about those Turnigy lipos, been looking at them as well.

Hi MisterCrash, can you write a mini tutorial on how to split the lipo batteries to make a 4s into 2x 2s? I got a 3s but one of the cell is puffed so I want to make it into 2s but doesn't know where to start. Also, where do you get the 2s balancing connectors?

I would never try messing with soldering lipos, but I might have to try NiMH's.

Anyways, I think you basically eliminate the solder wires, and just solder the wires onto the other cell..

I know, I'm bad at explaining, if you want someone else to do it for you, pretty much professionally, take a look at LincPimp's work.

Very good quality.