if un-annealing means un-hardening then it was fine to drill with.
just heat up till red hot, then cool as slowly as possible for 24 hours (cement dust works a treat) and then drill with a standard drill bit.

edit: first LST diff in final stages now, i ended up using the traxxas center diff gear on the LST diff instead as that is what i had on hand. will fill with 100k oil then go try and kill it on 6s :lol:

shaun

Annealing is softening the metal. I did spot annealing at the suggestion of some guys on a CNC forum. Yes, the metal drills very easily after annealing.

What I was saying is I would like to compare drilling the annealed metal to drilling the stock un-altered hardened metal, and see just how much the annealing actually helps.

I don't think you need to wait 24 hours and use the cement dust. Cement dust or not the metal will be cooled to ambient temp within 15-30 min. at most

i chose cement dust from personal experience, i have had a larger item kept red hot for hours on end by putting it in cement dust as it has good insulation capabilities.
shaun

hahaha cool stuff man, I read your first part an yes the other guy was me. I also read about crashes idea and then ran with it but in a little different direction.. Also if you look in the thread Outlaw ran with the idea aswell and actually fitted a Robinson racing gear on the center diff, last time I chatted with him he said his thing is indestructible..

I have yet to follow suite with the Robinson gear as I was busy on a few other projects, also I did find that the plastic gear could not hold up to actual race conditions.. IE hard braking and acceleration while coming of jumps.

Here's the thread,
http://hdrcvideos.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=17886

Here is the other thread,
http://monster.traxxas.com/showthrea...42#post3953042

BTW I just remembered what I was talking about before LOLOLOL

if you read one of my last posts I was intending to make the "CAP" of the CD out of a Kyosho plastic 44T spur, it would be super cheap and super easy to do. You just use the same principle as the studs but replace the hardened steal with plastic :)

http://www.rc-monster.com/prodimages...iokyoif147.jpg

I already checked the bolt pattern and there the same for the kyosho and losi.


it has been done and works really well, outlaw LST2 did it and if I remember right snagged him a 1st place finish.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OGBbpu6tG8

Here he is, the ''post man''. :lol: I'm glad you joined this thread. Your post idea has been working really well on my CDs and made it so much easier to make them. That plastic cap idea is interesting, it will have to be tested to see if it is strong enough. If it holds up, it would make the CD lighter which is good. That LST2 from outlaw looks awsome on the track.

That plastic Kyosho gear/cap would have made my life so much easier!!!!

Yes if that gear is strong enough to make a cap out of it would be a cheap alternative and easy to work with. Although, $27 plus something like $7 shipping is not very expensive to get a complete LST XXL diff. All you need after that are the Traxxas shafts and a Traxxas output gear which you still need even with that plastic Kyosho gear.

hahaha waddup guys, only thing that I would do different with the plastic gear is use 4 posts instead of two and I know you cant see it in my pictures but there is actually four posts there.

well my LST diff is done..the mk1 anyway lol.
i have special tallents :lol: so it binds due to an off-center pin hole i drilled, i'm gonna leave it for now cause i just wanna use it then go back and fix it, then make mk2 from the other diff :wink:

hehehehe...
even my uber crappy center diff went epicly today!!
goes to show that even the biggest crappiest version of the mr-crash diff is idiot proof :rofl:

Does it have to be an XXL diff? Because I already have a few Muggy diffs laying around..I would rather just use one of them and save some money

No it doesn't have to be an XXL diff. I use that one because I like the metal inserts in there. But I have made center diffs using Losi LST2, Ofna Hyper 7, Thunder Tiger S3. I am sure there are many more diffs from other manufacturers that can be used. And you don't have to start with a center diff to make a center diff. An ordinary front or rear diff can be used as the ring gear would be modified to become a cap just like a spur gear from a center diff would be. After I modified spur gears and ring gears to make diff caps, I can say that the ring gear from a diff is easier to modify because there is less material to grind off than a spur gear.

Thanks mc...btw when you said you like the 'metal inserts' are you referring to the bevel gears or what?

oooooooohhhhhhhhh
i thoguht ALL LST breed diffs had them metal inserts crash:lol:
was confuzled as to why my lst diff didnt have any:lol: