Will I have heat problems with the Quark???? I was going to buy the heat sink too. Would it be better to just get the 16018????

Is it easy to program? The other ESC I had was a pain.

When you give me the options for the motor...what are the differences in speed, heat and run time? I can't swing the Neu...

Thanks for the input...

It looks like with everything else the same that here is what I will get:

11xl = 40 mph
10xl = 45 mph
9xl = 50 mph

Which is going to run the coolest???? the difference of 5 mph is not going to matter to me. And that is with my current 14/46 gearing. I could change that to get more speed. Knowing that which would be better for me to bash around with...

I can't really comment on the programming of the 16018, but I heard that it was pretty easy if you have the programming cable/card sold in the RCM store. As for the Quark, even with the heatsink it will run hot for most people. Others can comment on how simple/hard the mod is to do.

The 11XL will run the coolest and for the longest. :smile:

Yep, the more turns a BL motor has, the cooler (but slower) it will run on the same given voltage. 10XL will run slightly cooler, and you can gear up more as a result (within reason though), so perhaps that would be a better setup than the 9XL. The Quark monster pro is also called the 125b since that is how many amps it can handle (burst rating is about 200 ish); it is the smoothest esc going at the moment, but it just has one annoying problem. Inside the esc case the FETs are connected to a heatspreader (slab of aluminum) via some thermal transfer tape, and then connected to the inside out the case using some more tape. Since the esc isnt sealed, dust & dirt find their way inside the case and cause the tape to fail. When this happens the FETs are nolonger connected to the inside of the case, and heat cant escape. As a result the esc starts to thermal after just a few minutes, but the outside of the case still feels cool. GriffinRu has some nice photos linked to in his sig which show one method of performing the thermal mod. BrianG shold be able to provide some diagrams too (they are floating around somewhere on this site).

EDIT: If you can wait until Feb, the MMM system will be released (hopefully), and that would be even better, especially at less than $300.

Forgive the aside - Neil, maybe this is too obvious, but has anyone tried sealing one and see if that works to prolong correct operation? Just curious, I'm getting close to putting a new one in service and that would be the time to try.

I ordered the MGM 16018 and a 10xl due to not having the 11xl listed. I emailed Mike to make the decision if there is an 11xl would that be better for bashing.

I will keep you updated on the status.

And of course pics and vids...

Did you order pinions too- remember the XL motors have a 5mm shaft, so you will need either MOD1 pinions with a 5mm bore & MOD1 spurs, or you could use 32pitch spurs and 32pitch pinions with a 5mm bore; mike has everything.

You are forgiven Duster- Im sure I read somewhere a while back someone did exactly as you said, but Im damned if I can find the thread. It would be a good idea really to use something like a fine foam mesh, rather than something like hotmelt glue etc. That way you still get airflow through the esc, which aids cooling. I would also highly recommend taking a look at GriffinRU's mod, it is rather brilliant in my opinion.

I have two that will work. Thanks for the reminder.

Wow...is Mike fast on shipping...I had a notice at my door that they tryied to deliver my package...Went to the PO and got it this morning.

I cannot wait to run this thing...I am thinking of installing tonight and then doing a test run with the 14 Cells until my 5S Lipo comes in...

Nice stuff...

Well here it is:

I bought off of Mike:

9XL Feigao
MGM 16018

And running on a 5cell LiPo 4000Mah

I wired it up and went through the set up of the ESC.

Shut it down and then started it back up.

Did a bench run of slow throttle to make sure it worked. It was running smooth.

All of a sudden white smoke started coming out of where the wires go in.

HELP!!! :surprised:

Where the wires come out of where?

I'm sorry it is a 10XL..

Where the wires come out of the back of the motor...

Well, it sounds like I may have had too long of screws to hold the motor. Mike seems to think that is the problem. Only 4mm was screwed in, but maybe that was too much.

Anyone interested in a "smokin" 10xl? Or a NIB 9l? :gasp:

Oops. I think on my hvmaxx the motor mounting screws only go in about 2-3mm. Easy way to tell is to screw them in until you feel the screw touching the windings, then back it off a little. Keep the motor though- spare rotors come in handy around this place....

Mike has been great with answering my questions...even though I don't like some of the answers...:surprised:

How to I disassemble the 10XL. I cannot see any set screws or tabs. I want to make sure what the issue really is.

John