lol, hopefully the Quark treats you right after all you've been through! If it starts thermalling though, prepare to do the internal mod. It's a little bit of a PITA, but not overly hard, and is well worth it IMO. I've done it to both my Quarks and results have been pleasing.

Yeah, but if I do the mod, then I won't be able to have it fixed when the symptoms of the defects that this one has start to manifest themselves. I just know my luck.

I've already epoxied my 6 cap bank to the bottom of the Quark, and I'll have to desolder the bank to open up the Quark to check it out. I may just throw the MM back in and run that until I feel like messing with the Quark.

bit late revisting this thread but have you considered a combo of mechanically capturing the motor leads onto the pcb joints in addition to soldering? I think one of my fried quarks (the one that smoked to hell) may have been due first to excessive overheating without thermalling, that melted the solder....releasing one of the leads and letting it touch an adjacent lead. Mechanial/soldered joints are lower in resistance of all connections from what I understand. Dunno, just a thought.

Can one of Mike's UBEC's be used with the Quark 125?? :yes: Dig the new smilies.

Yes. UBECs are not dependant on what ESC you use.

Thanks Brian :intello:

I am fairly pleased with mine, has strong brakes and massive acceleration. Don't have heatsink, yet, but it sure does need one will burn fingers after a hard run. Programming is somewhat difficult. took me a few trys to get all parameters right. I use a Maxamps 5 cell, runs great, plenty of power, long run times (120 amp cont. discharge, 6000mah) no problems. the monster pro is probably the best if u dont have mechanical brakes like on a G-maxx revo (i have one) but if u do have mech. brakes, use a Castle HV 125, it is about $40 cheaper, it is lighter, handles more power, and customer service is great. Be careful with brakes on Monster Pro (front flips anyone?)

yeah, the brakes can be a bit touchy, but if you reduce the break power in programming, it is much smoother.

Don't forget, the 125B is technically a 1/10 scale ESC, much like the MM. So using it in a MT/truggy/buggy, it will work it harder. Doing the "internal mod" (despite the loss of a warranty) and adding a heatsink does wonders. Also, adding a couple extra caps helps a lot too...