Yea, not much choices on us extended guys eh?:(

The jeep has spots to put the extra hole for the extended version. I am not sure how it looks though.

Yeah, i was thinking and looking at that, it might look a little short though?

Any particular reason you are selling your FLM Chassis Cool?

I have two gmaxxes working on a flm pede and have a buggy and a savage. I don't have use for it. I like the gmaxx better for me. I run a hi cell count and the flm chassis doesn't except them well for the fact the tranny is in theway. It works for 16 cells though. I started to mount the ae cups on it for mounting but never finished.

In the picture on the site, it appears that there is some rubber or plastic where the transmission make contact with the chassis for protection purposes I can only assume. I don't seem to see any parts like that that came with my chassis. Am I missing something?

Where do you put your power switch?

I also seem to have only gotten 4 of the 8 screws I need to attach the transmission to the chassis. Is this normal?

The 4 screws are for the bulk heads. Not sure on the switch cause I didn't have one. I got nothing on the tranny spot for protection. It was all aluminum

I finally got some pics of my E with the new FLM chassis. I still just have my stock body that is very much a basher body, LOL

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...x/25f0a7b1.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...x/20bd05ce.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...x/1fc04211.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...x/61c1a9c3.jpg

fookin nice man still the straps make it look fugly though we need those battery braces mike.... ha ha ha

I posted those first pics and realized I forgot some pics of the innards. I still just have stock Titans in it right now. I just got into R/C literally Jan 3 of this year and my wife is already VERY unhappy with how much $$ I've spent.

I solved my power switch location issue by gluing it to the EVX. As you can also see, I cut up an old mousepad and glued it to the chassis as padding for my batts. I'm currently running my older 6-cell packs till I get used to the different handling with the new chassis and new Powerstroke shocks that I just put on the beast too.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...x/375d8011.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...x/a5e2aee6.jpg

P.S. I totally agree about the batt straps!!!

I have a question regarding the new rear center driveshaft dogbone and cups that came with the new chassis. Should the dogbone actually move back and forth in the slots of the cups? Or should it be pretty snug in the slots? Mine moves quite a bit and today I had to replace both "pins" that hold the cups to the Diff and Tranny. As far as the "pins" go, I had to buy the entire stock parts that included two "pins" and the cup for the ball joints that the stock shafts use. Can anyone tell me where to get just the "pins" and is it a good idea to use Loc-tite on these "pins" or not? Thanks for any insights anyone is able to provide.

You can use some fuel tubing to hold them still. I use loctite on mine when I ran the stock pins. Tower had them mike should to.

On my centers i evened them out by using antenna tubing. And yes, loc-tite is good for applications like this, just dont use the heavy duty stuff, or you will have major problems on getting them out!

okay, please forgive me for being dense, but in what way should I use fuel/antenna tubing to keep the driveshaft/dogbone from moving so much? I'm a visual person (kind of odd for a legally blind guy to say that) so example pics would be wonderful it it's not asking too much. Thanks.

Ill try to get some pics. What we mean is, when you look at the dogbone (the cup) You see some empty space in it, you have to get some fuel tubing and put it in between that space so the cvd does not shift over. if this does not help ill try my best to get some pics.

cut a small piece of fuel tubing and put it in the cup before the dog bone. It acts like a spring on it and pushes against one another to hold it still. It takes a little measuring and need to make them about the same.