If u are running on 5S without changing your gearing, your truck will be running faster. Which means that the power is higher. P=IV and so your current will definitely be higher.

In order for your 5S to have a lower current than a 4S, it should be geared to your current 4S speeds. If your 5S is running at a higher speed, you are just running your motor at a higher wattage.

Has anyone taken a look at the speedpassion ESC internals and compared it to this one? Have heard that they are basically the same.

They are the same.

got a link to this discussion?

There's no link, it's just the facts. You can also ask Hobbywing who's a member of RCM.

does anyone know if this will work with 6s? I know the amps will be fine, they mention it working with 6s, but I'm not sure if thats because the diagrams reference the 150 and the 80. Sure don't need the 150.

The 80A arms with 5s, but I never ran it very long so I don't know how well it will run long-term. The FETs and caps are technically rated high enough for 5s, but 6s will be too much IMO, especially during braking; and that's even if it will arm on 6s. The BEC is sealed so I'm not sure how it will like 5s, much less 6s. IMO, I would stick to the rating if you want long-term reliability.

I am not using brakes, I have brakes on my truck, you still think it wouldn't work? I am probably pulling 60 amps max with my setup, I hate to spend 40 plus bucks more for nothing.

Even without braking, 6s is too close to the FET and cap values IMO. It may work, but then again, it may shorten the lifespan.

Hi ya
I made my madian 1/8 electric race on the weekend
using a HW 80a on 4s with a medusa 1600 kv in a hyper 8.5 i had it gear on a 15t pinon.
the track was grass and quite short, very tight .
I was racing with the nitros the heats where 7 mins
the first heat i did 13 laps and won by 2 laps ! ( took 3200 mah to recharge the lipo)
and in the second heat, i was one the first lap the car stop dead, the marshall brought the car back to the drives stand, at this point there was lot of smoke and flames .
Not sure why it when up ?
today i have got a 150A and i have order a tekin rx8 also, so hopefully i can have some better luck with them http://s648.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=meltdown.jpg

I am sure you have probably read through, but was anything changed on the esc settings other than cutoff voltage.

yea i dropped the timing down to 7.5, lower the brakes and also the punch setting ......

all my testing was done with a 9XL motor and it was savage, so all that tone it down to driveable levels .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iw6Z25DMJY

How low did you set the punch? Many have burned the EZRun ESCs by running the timing too low (seems like 7.5* and lower may make it puff) and punch too low (anywhere near 0-zero punch). The stock settings for timing and punch work great and I don't think you would benefit much in terms of performance, runtime, or heat by altering them. For the 150A coming, I'd recommend not changing the stock settings by much...maybe 1 or 2 each direction, but not more than that.

Sorry i cant remember what i change the punch setting too, ( it was some months ago) dropping those setting did make a difference to its driveability much more suited to my driving style. And yes i will be leaving the 150a setting as is .. apart from the braking force ..

i tried mine with a novak hv 5.5n for 2 months on a e-revo and works great.
motor didn´t pass 55 degrees and esc never pass 45 degrees even and the end of 20 or 30 minutes running ..

regards

Zetor, mine burned up on its second run too.
I only changed timing to 7.5deg, after reading about the dangers of low punch setting.
Your lucky nothing else burned up when it went off, mine did quite a bit of damage.

It sucks because you soften settings to be careful and nice to your car, not realizing
it could turn it into a time-bomb. I will definately not touch anything other than cutoff
voltage when I get mine back, and will run it without the new body on till I am sure
it will be OK.

Either way, it is NOT acceptable for someone to have to troll forums to pick
up vital info to prevent failure and damage when you are just following the
manufacturers instructions.

The only sensitive settings are punch and timing. Everything else is fine to adjust. And there hasn't any more issues than other brands bit customer service IS different than US brands. For the money I still think HW ESCs and even motors are a great value for the performance they deliver. And HW makes BL systems for quite a few well known US brands.

Well, I was running today at the park on this large dirt mound (don't know why the dirt mound was there...it's not near any construction which in socal is always completely fenced off), but it was fun. I wasn't running very hard...only part throttle and was on NiMH and half way through the first set of packs, I went for a jump and the truck got off balance and landed directly on it's lid. Then, no throttle. Steering worked still. I tried turning off the ESC and back on, nope. Disconnect the battery and reconnect, nope. Then disconnect battery again, reconnect...and MAGIC SMOKE! It was taking some pretty big hits, hard enough to slide the fan on the EZRun ESC half way across the ESC. So, not sure what did it...I guess the landing on it's lid was enough impact to move something around enough to short. So, a dead 80A ESC. Disappointing, but not any more surprising than if it had happened with any other brand. A friend of mine smoked his MMM recently too (his 2nd smoked one).

Hi guy's..New to the forum..Been running my 80amp in my e-savage for almost 4 months now without any problems on 4s.Using intellect 4600mah 20c lipo's.Had my punch and timing on 0 from day one without any trouble.After reading this I am worries a bit.Have I just been lucky so far or can it be that I have a new version with bugs sorted out?

Welcome to the forums Donovan!

Unsure about your question. It may be that you have a newer version, or just lucky; hard to say. On one hand, it could fail today so it may be a good idea to change it back. Then again, changing it back may cause something to happen (if it ain't broke, don't fix it).

Lol very true..Had it on 7.5deg timing and punch level 5 today and only changes was motor , esc and batteries running hotter than normal.No change in performance that I could notice!So might lower timing one level above 0 and punch level to round 2 just to be safe!