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-   -   **My FLM CCNeu Maxx Nearly Completed** (https://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19881)

Rivermaxx 07.08.2009 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kcaz25 (Post 302743)
I figured. Thanx man!

Are there any 23mm rims that are offset that fit Maxx size tires wheels not 40 series. I'm asking because the ones I have now seen above don't fit the badlands very well. The badlands slump over to one side and stay that way (until the turn back the other way) espcially when turning at speed.

Thanx guys!
-Zack

What foams are you running?

Kcaz25 07.08.2009 03:22 PM

:neutral::oops: Ones that came with either the tires or the wheels...?

I guess some one needs to tell me that they have had succes with a particular 23mm off set wheel foam combo on badlands. and or help me identify what wheels foams I have. :oh::oops:

Rivermaxx 07.08.2009 03:31 PM

Are they the molded ones ? if not thats probably the problem or you need stiffer molded foams. The older non molded foams disenergrate inside the tire after a while dont ever use them. I am not sure how good the molded foams that come with the tires now.

Chadworkz 07.08.2009 06:36 PM

The Badlands do that "shift" from side to side on any MT/3.2" wheel, no matter what foam is being used. You can fix the problem by mounting the tires on the inner-most bead lip of the wheel, or by mounting them on LPR or Half-Ups wheels. If you need 23mm hexes, you will need to find a 3.7" to 4" 17mm wheel, like from Ofna.

Kcaz25 07.08.2009 06:52 PM

River, I didn't know that about the foams thanks!

Bummer. Cool. Are you talking about adapters Chad? Won't the 17mm still be my weak point? What is best LRP or Half-Ups?

BL_RV0 07.08.2009 07:15 PM

17mm should be fine. Proline LPR or JC halfups, ofna LPR, etc

mkrusedc 07.08.2009 07:26 PM

Zack here is what chad is talking about:

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=478086

Kcaz25 07.08.2009 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkrusedc (Post 302837)
Zack here is what chad is talking about:

http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=478086

Yeah I've been reading that some. Thanks. I just don't want to have to mod my tires in that way because of the worry of grass and dirt getting into my tires. I want it to work well... stock. I'm afraid of 17mm... I like back flips... alot. Big jumps to. I could get a hobby shop to cut my rims and rebuild them but that would cost alot and be time consuming.

Mark, how do you like your Garbage brand bulks? :no::rules::wink:

Chadworkz 07.08.2009 10:43 PM

17mm hexes are more than strong enough for even the most hardcore abuse, so you shouldn't have any problems with them, even doing standing back flips...23mm hexes are really just a novelty, and aren't really needed strength wise, but they do open up a few more wheel options.

Also, if you choose to mount your Badlands' beads on the inner-most bead lip of the wheel, you actually glue the part of the sidewall that touches the outer-most bead lip, so that there is no gap and nothing can get forced between the tire and the outer-most lip...it works very well.

Another option is to just run true LPR/3.7" tires on LPR/Half-Ups/3.7" wheels, which are designed to have a very short sidewall so that there is no sidewall bulge.

An even better option is to run the new Pro-Line VTR wheels and tires, which have ultra-short sidewalls and absolutely zero sidewall bulge, so there is no sidewall roll what-so-ever. They aren't ROAR approved yet, but they are in the process, and should be soon...at least before the next Worlds

Problem is, Badlands don't come in LPR or VTR, so you will have to either glue the tire beads to the inner-most bead lip of the wheel, or cut the beads off to enlarge the inner diameter of the tire to the bead diameter of the wheel you like.

In all honesty, though, mounting Badlands on the MT/3.2" or LPR/Half-Ups/3.7" wheels in the normal way does not cause any problems or negative side-effects...it just looks funny sometimes. The only time you would even notice it or need to fix it would be if you were racing competitively.

BL_RV0 07.08.2009 10:46 PM

As for durability of 17mm hubs- I've spun 1 hub on my HST, and that's with a year of abuse. Great IMO.

mkrusedc 07.08.2009 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kcaz25 (Post 302840)
Yeah I've been reading that some. Thanks. I just don't want to have to mod my tires in that way because of the worry of grass and dirt getting into my tires. I want it to work well... stock. I'm afraid of 17mm... I like back flips... alot. Big jumps to. I could get a hobby shop to cut my rims and rebuild them but that would cost alot and be time consuming.

Mark, how do you like your Garbage brand bulks? :no::rules::wink:

I love my 17 mm hexes. Jeesh I am twisting 1/8 diff output shafts and the wheel hex holds...go figure? :gasp:

I am waiting for his reply. I guess for him it is either garbage or VBS. The only other option in my mind is the muggy diff mod that has been posted.

Kcaz25 07.08.2009 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chadworkz (Post 302887)
17mm hexes are more than strong enough for even the most hardcore abuse, so you shouldn't have any problems with them, even doing standing back flips...23mm hexes are really just a novelty, and aren't really needed strength wise, but they do open up a few more wheel options.

Also, if you choose to mount your Badlands' beads on the inner-most bead lip of the wheel, you actually glue the part of the sidewall that touches the outer-most bead lip, so that there is no gap and nothing can get forced between the tire and the outer-most lip...it works very well.

Another option is to just run true LPR/3.7" tires on LPR/Half-Ups/3.7" wheels, which are designed to have a very short sidewall so that there is no sidewall bulge.

An even better option is to run the new Pro-Line VTR wheels and tires, which have ultra-short sidewalls and absolutely zero sidewall bulge, so there is no sidewall roll what-so-ever. They aren't ROAR approved yet, but they are in the process, and should be soon...at least before the next Worlds

Problem is, Badlands don't come in LPR or VTR, so you will have to either glue the tire beads to the inner-most bead lip of the wheel, or cut the beads off to enlarge the inner diameter of the tire to the bead diameter of the wheel you like.

In all honesty, though, mounting Badlands on the MT/3.2" or LPR/Half-Ups/3.7" wheels in the normal way does not cause any problems or negative side-effects...it just looks funny sometimes. The only time you would even notice it or need to fix it would be if you were racing competitively.


I've seen some guys strip em maybe it was user error, but I've never heard any striped 23mms, but I hate the slump and I really think it effects handling. I'm trying to keep up with my cousins losi 1.0 8t come on! I need all the help I can get. Blah, blah a Maxx will never keep up with a truggy. I don't believe it nor do I care. Nothing against truggies.

Should I try to wait on the new Proline VTR setups? Probably not? They sound awesome got a link chad?

I don't like the double glueing idea not with BL. Although i will tape the next tires that I get.

I hate it. :whip: This is standard size maxx right? With proline offset of course.
http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0728.jpg

Still don't know what to do.

mkrusedc 07.08.2009 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kcaz25 (Post 302927)
Mark did you get the inside joke about the Garbage brand bulks? :lol: :diablo:


Still don't know what to do.

Yep I did. On another topic check out kershaw designs for thier Maxx spring upgrade. It looks interesting.

http://204.186.93.64/SlipperSpring.htm

Kcaz25 07.09.2009 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkrusedc (Post 302918)
I love my 17 mm hexes. Jeesh I am twisting 1/8 diff output shafts and the wheel hex holds...go figure? :gasp:

I am waiting for his reply. I guess for him it is either garbage or VBS. The only other option in my mind is the muggy diff mod that has been posted.

Very cool. I didn't think about that! Mark I know backwards and forwards the kind of truck you build(a good one:lol:) But I really still don't know your driving style. I've seen your old video and everything. Is that it? Because I try to get at least one standing backflip in every run. :intello: And always big jumps 3-10 feet up. I plan to go higher once I can keep the truck in one piece. You know I just want to get a feeling for weither the parts(like the 17mms) will hold up under me as they do(or don't) under you. You really need to make a new video, that would help! But don't feel like you have to do backflips! I'm thinking those stub axles should be in anyday no? Bling!RacerX. :party::whistle:

Yeah it wasn't the most helpful post either... :no:. Never had a problem with cmckella though.

Kcaz25 07.09.2009 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mkrusedc (Post 302928)
On another topic check out kershaw designs for thier Maxx spring upgrade. It looks interesting.

http://204.186.93.64/SlipperSpring.htm


It is listed under all the maxxes and revo varients do you reall think it would fit the 3906 though. You know if Mike would just build the CD unit this would be non issue. He reallyyy needs to hire more help. I think hes running the risk of hurting his amazing rep. With the whole rarely answering emails thing because he has so many projects going that he can't keep up with. He did finally answer one my recent ones though. I may post up what it said. Its kind of open ended...

Chadworkz 07.09.2009 01:02 AM

[Here] are the VTR tires...
[Here] are the VTR wheels...

Anyway, I actually prefer 23mm hex-adapters, because I think the Dace 23mm hex-adapters are simply the best ever made! They are made out of billet 7075, have a larger clamping surface, and are crazy-light...not to mention they look rad!
http://www.unlimitedengineering.com/...DT103223BK.jpg

Also, my Badlands on my Pro-Line Velocity 23mm HD ½" off-set wheels do the exact same thing, as well as my Bow-Tie MTRs, just not as bad.

Kcaz25 07.12.2009 11:07 PM

Chad I thought I posted a big reply but I guess not. Sorry not going to retype it. I still don't know what to do but you have absolutely helped alot.

Mark have you seen post 174 and 175?

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0985.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0982.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0980.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0979.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0977.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1002.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_1001.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0998.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0999.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0997.jpg

Kcaz25 07.12.2009 11:14 PM

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0996.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0995.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0992.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0991.jpg

http://i420.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/100_0990.jpg

Neither are ready to install!! The diff case has to have a new helicoil! (seller didn't warn me) :no::whip: So 2moro its off to Texas for an online buddy with a helicoil kit to fix. These trannies have always had known fitment issues but not known to FLM. :no: Its close but there is a good bit of resistance. I've gotta get some more clearence somewhere in there. The screw holes line up though which is good.

mkrusedc 07.12.2009 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kcaz25 (Post 303817)
Mark have you seen post 174 and 175?

Sorry,

My 17 mm hexes hold up fine even with my brother-in-law landing full throttle. When I first was upgrading my hexes I was told that there are more rims in 17mm than 23mm and that is why I went with them. I do not know if that is still true.

I think that spring will work on the 3906, but you could shoot Dan an email and ask before you purchase.

Is that jordan...'s tranny? You got some sweet parts there.....:yes:

Kcaz25 07.13.2009 07:23 AM

No I just got the FLM half case remember because of the flexing and despite FLM email claiming the case is good it is not. Too much binding.

I emailed dan he said the slipper will fit.

I may go with the 17mms then.

Rivermaxx 07.13.2009 10:00 AM

So whats the deal? does the gear asembly fit or not ? I am thinking of getting one of these 1/2 cases but not if the gears dont fit right. 17 mm are strong enough wheels i wouldnt woort about breaking them.

suicideneil 07.13.2009 10:38 AM

Sounds like a familiar issue- the bearing hole in the half-case isnt deep enough for the input shaft, so the bearing crushes against the gear when its all screwed together.

Fixable if you have a vertical mill and endmill bit, otherwise it needs specialist attention or returning to FLM for rectifying.

Rather annoying really as my stock plastic halfcase is rather ropey, but I wont replace it with an FLM item if its going to give me headaches, and I aint spending $100 on a full metal tranny from somewhere else just to get the half that I want.

Chadworkz 07.13.2009 06:20 PM

Couldn't you just use a 1mm thinner bearing in the problem bearing hole?

Kcaz25 07.13.2009 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suicideneil (Post 303970)
Sounds like a familiar issue- the bearing hole in the half-case isnt deep enough for the input shaft, so the bearing crushes against the gear when its all screwed together.

Fixable if you have a vertical mill and endmill bit, otherwise it needs specialist attention or returning to FLM for rectifying.

Rather annoying really as my stock plastic halfcase is rather ropey, but I wont replace it with an FLM item if its going to give me headaches, and I aint spending $100 on a full metal tranny from somewhere else just to get the half that I want.

Right. I think. Couldn't I use a dremel?

Kcaz25 07.13.2009 07:33 PM

CLICK HERE to see what size the bearing is said to be and what it looks like. It is a 5X11 bearing so would this work? CLICK A 5X10

EDIT I guess it has to be 4X11?? And what is a flanged bearing?

Thanks,
Zack

mkrusedc 07.13.2009 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kcaz25 (Post 304166)
And what is a flanged bearing?

Thanks,
Zack

It has a lip or flange on one side of the bearing. See pics in the link"

http://www.qbcbearings.com/RFQ/CoverPg/BallBearing.htm

Kcaz25 07.13.2009 09:11 PM

Thanks Mark.

What about these? CLICK check the ones in post 185 as well.

Kcaz25 07.13.2009 11:18 PM

I'm cutting some off the remaining input gear (2nd), should help, right?

Chadworkz 07.14.2009 12:19 AM

The number in a bearing you need to be smaller is the width (thickness), not the diameter numbers...bearings are sized like this: IDxODxW, and the ones you listed just have their ID (inside diameter) and OD (outside diameter) listed.

So, whatever the width of the problem bearing, just get one 1mm smaller...if the stock bearing is 5x11x5, get a 5x11x4. The hole in the transmission case where the bearing goes needs to be deeper, not larger in diameter.

suicideneil 07.14.2009 12:39 PM

^^Yep.

Any mod to the tranny case needs to be done with abit more precision than a dremel can manage... :whistle:

BL_RV0 07.14.2009 01:09 PM

You need a CNC mill to really get it done right... go to your local machinist...

_paralyzed_ 07.14.2009 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BL_RV0 (Post 304436)
You need a CNC mill to really get it done right... go to your local machinist...

you wouldn't really use a cnc to do clean up work like this. a mill, yes. CNC is computer numerically controlled- you wouldn't write a program for a CNC for one cut on a mill. There are CNC plasma cutters, water jets, mills and other things, CNC is just how they're controlled.

I imagine with my good carbide bit on my dremel I could add 1mm to a bearing hole. It would be easy to screw it up, but I'd try it.

mkrusedc 07.14.2009 05:39 PM

Or you could just use the plastic half case...

Kcaz25 07.14.2009 05:59 PM

Yeah that is what got a chunk knocked out of the MMM! Remember!? I think it finally did in the old fan aswell. I must have this new mounting configuration for the airflow and for the uniqueness and weight distrubution. Remember the MMM is now under the motor. The motor endbell didn't like the hit either but it took it for sure. The whole plastic case was FLEXING when landing jumps

As per my emails with FLM after they told me that it will work after me warning them that very few actually do in the real world, I'm sure they'd be obliged to fix it for me.

Chadworkz 07.14.2009 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_ (Post 304449)
you wouldn't really use a cnc to do clean up work like this. a mill, yes. CNC is computer numerically controlled- you wouldn't write a program for a CNC for one cut on a mill. There are CNC plasma cutters, water jets, mills and other things, CNC is just how they're controlled.

I imagine with my good carbide bit on my dremel I could add 1mm to a bearing hole. It would be easy to screw it up, but I'd try it.

As long as you use an end-mill bit, because a drill bit won't work...and you better have a hand that is as steady as a robot, because you are making the hole deeper, not larger, and if you aren't robot steady you will mess up the diameter of the hole.

_paralyzed_ 07.15.2009 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chadworkz (Post 304536)
As long as you use an end-mill bit, because a drill bit won't work...and you better have a hand that is as steady as a robot, because you are making the hole deeper, not larger, and if you aren't robot steady you will mess up the diameter of the hole.

it'd be no different or harder than drilling any peice in a drill press. set the peice, set the depth stop, pull the lever. no computers or "robots" necessary.

Chadworkz 07.15.2009 10:10 PM

Yea, it can be done with a drill-press, but not with a Dremel. However, I would just use a 1mm thinner bearing, heh.

Kcaz25 07.15.2009 10:47 PM

HeY check this out I'm grinding the gear itself down and it seems to be working!

But on another note, I hate my dremel its nicd!!!!! Like 4 volts!! feels cheap, plasticy, like a toy! It last for like 3 mins! Takes like 3 hours to charge! AHHH! Does anybody have the lithium ion one? I lust after that thing!!! It will be mine soon! HAHAHA... LOL

RCM members are the greatest by the way.

BL_RV0 07.15.2009 10:58 PM

Don't get the li-ion dremel. It is terrible. Just get a plugin one.

Kcaz25 07.15.2009 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BL_RV0 (Post 304794)
Don't get the li-ion dremel. It is terrible. Just get a plugin one.

Howdie friend! I like the profile picture! What do you mean? Anything is better than 4v nicd!!! Have you owned it? I really like being portable.


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