Well, my 10XL in my Revo is gone. I tried to race it in a Truggy class this weekend and right off the bat it had very little power (compared to last year). After only about 1 minute of running it, I took it out of the race and the motor was HOT, but the ESC and batts were just fine. It wasn't going very fast at all and had zero punch. I don't know what happened, but am going to replace it with a 9XL, which should be a little better on 14 cells, yet ready for 5s lipo. When I took the motor apart, the windings looked a little blackened and crisp. I have no idea when that would have happened as I'm quite paranoid when it comes to heat. Oh well; good thing it's a cheap motor. :)

I was thinking of running a Neu on it, but I don't think a finned one will fit on Mike's motor mount. I know the finned or non-finned Neu won't be able to use the rear motor support feature. And, the smooth Neus can't use the RCM heatsink. Poo.

Brian I have a ton of experience with the big hackers in the aircraft world, may I be so bold as to suggest/point out the following...

The big hackers tend to have problems if something gives and they have a chance to spin fast with no load. Everytime this has happend (like 3 times with one of my motors) the coils will get burned up and you will have the symptoms you described. Recommend sending back to Hacker for repair before buying new, they've been extremely good about repairing under warranty for this type of problem.

Do you temp your motor after full runs? The commonly accepted threshold I've used for the larger hackers is under 180F if you surpass that, you'll likely burn the coils.

That motor is probably repairable for the price of shipping to Hacker...

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the input!

Yeah, I have read about 130-140* tops after a full run in the past. Now, all I do is use the "hand test", and everything seemed fine, until this weekend. The only thing I can think of that changed from last year was the addition of a center diff. It was a bit loose before I put thicker oil in it (50k), so maybe it diffed out and the motor spun up too fast causing it to overheat. I don't really like the centerdiff in the Revo anyway and plan to remove it. It seems that if it's too loose, it diffs out badly; and if I put thick enough oil so it doesn't diff out, the diff is all but locked.

BTW: This isn't a hacker motor, it's a BK Wanderer.

Seems to me like you put the rear brace on wrong?

Oops, I saw 10XL and assumed a Hacker C50-10XL

Yeah, I have since changed it around. :)

That's OK. Do you think Hacker will fix my Wanderer for the same price? :dft012:

Do they actually fix it, or just send a new motor? I was looking at the motor internals and those coils look quite packed in there.

Brian, are you running the traxxas center diff? If so, what weight oil are you running? In my revo the stock 100k was not enough so I went to 120k. That was not enough; front tires kept unloading massively, like I had 10k oil. So then the only thing I could think of that would be better was... umm.... Silly Putty! I really packed the diff with it and it worked great... for about half a battery pack(8000mAh).
I was really fed up so I packed the diff with JB weld. I am pretty sure that will hold(no diff action). Have you had better luck? What would you suggest I do?

Thanks

Bye:018:

I'm using a custom 8th scale diff that I got from Squee a while back. I figured 100k for the stock traxxas CD would be roughly equivalent to 50k with a 4 spider gear arrangement. I liked the turning ability with a loose diff, but the acceleration really stinks. If I tighten it up so it accelerated, turning suffers. I am just going to take it out and maybe install an RD quickturn. That should give me the best of both worlds, with the exception of easy wheelies.

They can be a pain to get right, but there worth it when they are right. You might just want to try something thicker.

I was going to do that, but already steering is suffering. It was a good idea, but I just don't like it. Too bad too, because that CD is really a nice design!

Been looking thru the TRX site and the setup sheets as well, and the general concensus is that the TRX CD needs 500K oil. Even 300K is too light. A Main hobbies and others has a Kyosho 500K for ~$13.

Brian, how's the 2nd gear locker still doing? Fine I suppose. :) When you notched holes for the screws, did you notch the gear or the metal clutch or both? May get the 2nd gear locker form B0gh0s, but may try your meth 1st (free is always good :) )

Yeah, I was going to go with thicker CD fluid, but I was already starting to wheelie with what I had. Besides, the stock CD has only two gears while the one I have is a modified buggy diff with 4 gears, so I can theoretically use thinner fluid with the same results.

At any rate, I might try it again, but for now, I'll stick to a regular locker. It's lighter too. :)

Yup, my locking scheme still seems to be working fine. I did have one gear pin break, but that's it so far. The clutch arm is a harder metal to notch, so I just positioned the notches so they do hit the arm at all.

I notched the metal clutch, then the 4mm screws threaded themselves in to the gear. I used a Dremel with one of these bits. It's almost exactly the same diameter as the 4mm screws. So far so good, it's holding up great.

hey brian i just wanted to say after seeing this build go together you have convinced me top make my revo electric. my stuff will not be as high end but it will stil be a BL setup, MMM. i also locked my second gear exatly like yours. i love the fact its reversable incase i deside to go back to the 2 speed for some nitro burning.

Welcome to the forums!

Thanks! Are you by any chance the same "gasshead" at the Traxxas forum? If so, I tried to send you a PM response, but your inbox was full.

yeah thats me, i deleted my PMs so feel free to contact me.

i like the screw idea but want something that looks more permenate. do you think some JB weld would hold?i would probly leave the screws but grind down the heads...