Thanks
 

Thanks for saying "Jimmy Rig" and not "Jerry Rig". ha ha ha. I to like the percision of machined matalic parts. They look alot better than some hack job, and this is not just about high speeds. Having something that looks great for the final photo session after breaking the record is a must also. Whatever works.

Heh, I spent ages searching for the slipper locker on the trx forum, never could find it- thnks for those pics. Looks very simple and straight forward, Im guessing there is a bearing in the front to keep it spinning true? Let us know how it goes when it arrives- might have to get the Candyman to make me something similar in the near future...

No bearing in the front. It just fits in place of the whole slipper assembly on the input shaft which is supported by bearings. There is a step up where the center bearing would be to center the gear on the adaptor. It does look to be a very simple straight foward design. For $17 shiped I couldn't pass it up. It would cost me 5 times that amount to make a similar item.

Ah, I gotchya now- guess the bearing only served a purpose on the original slipper in order to center the spur; the locker has that feature built-in. So simple, yet so clever :yes:

River: how's it coming? The days are ticking away. I'm sensing that 30ft fifth wheel being hooked up pretty soon.

Cutting out the slipstream body out now and setting it up so I can mount it with velcro cycling my batts also. Body is turning out good, I will post pics as soon as I am done. Managed to keep more material in front creating a make shift splitter. Fifth wheel is still up in the air not sure I will have time to get it ready. I am waiting on some parts(slipper eliminator, 40 tooth gear, gyro and ofna 1/8 scale wing. I hope they come before this weekends testing. I know the days are going by fast and as long as I keep busy I should be ready. Heres some more pics:
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2658.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2659.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2660.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2661.jpg

Spares??
 

I hope you have some spares for this event. You never know what might happen along the way with your ESC, motor, servo, or any other electronics during testing or the event itself. Even some backup wheels and tires in case you have a catostrophic wheel failure. You want to have something to fall back on even if it is not identical equipment for backups.

I have 2 extra spare esc's, 2 extra spare castle 2200 motors, 2 extra bodies,2 recievers, wheels and tire I could use but not foam tires. Extra gears, bearings, a-arms, cvd's, 23mm adaptors,rpm axle carriers, wings and mounts, body post,bulkhead and spacers,servos,pillow balls, etc etc. Hopefully I dont need any of it.

Shin guards! And tape the battery compartment shut! :lol: *

*some guy at the event a couple years ago jumped over the little wall along the side of the track, and the battery compartment cover fell open on his tx, spilling the batts. Trouble is, his 3 engineed nitro dragster turned into a runaway and wiped out into a seating area, took three guys to shut it down (one per engine)! Epic....

Theres going to be a lift so no standing on the wall. Taping the batt compartment is agood Idea though. I seen that video it was pretty exciting.

Plenty of feet & chairs in that vid from memory

Good luck River, I look at spares like an umbrella on a cloudy day...if you take it you won't need it (hopefully)

Have you figure out anyway to sheet the bottom for even better airflow?

Looks kind of beast. :smile:

I liked the way my longer gmaxx drove.

I actually am going to put a thin peice of lexan on the bottom of the front nose for some support and most likely packing tape over the rest. I will see how it works.

Ak no, not that brown packing tape! You will spend the next 2 years trying to scrape off the gluey residue it leaves behind. Cling film ftw... :mdr:

No, not brown. Clear is what I have been using and it works good and leave no residue. I have alot of rolls thanks to a great coupon from costco. Might as well put it too use its light weight an holds fast.

Haven't tested it out yet on the road but tested it on the bench and all I can say is wow! That this really works good at least on the bench. Slide the rear to the left and the front wheels turn left slide to the right and it turns right. For such a cheap gyro I am impressed. Actually, I have never seen one work before so I am impressed easily.lol Heres a pic:
I mounted it on top of the receiver case. Hopefully I get to test it tomorrow.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2662.jpg

Me neither.
 

I have never seen a gyro on an R/C vehicle myself. So what you are saying is that if the vehicle drifts even just a little bit off course that the gyro makes a correction to get it back on course so it stays moving in the direction that you have set with your TX, correct??

Correct. The gyro will make slight left and right corrections when needed.

Thats really cool
 

That seems like a must for anyone running a vehicle at high speeds. Very cool gadgit.

Very much so. Gyro's can be very helpful. If I'm not mistaken, Nic Case uses them.

Its pretty cool. Drift rc cars are known to use them , helps with the drifting. I think some people used them in offroad racing and they had a big advantage. They could use more power in the turns without sliding out. I think they outlawed them because of this. For the price I paid ~$13 shipped you could get one and play with it rather cheap. Some guys are mounting them up right so when your truck starts to flip it will counter act and help keep you from flipping. Its a neat idea if you ask me. Kinda like a electronic anti roll bar. LOL Some guys were talking about hooking onr up to the esc and using it to control wheelies but not sure if it ever worked car might just take off full throttle and never stop.

They can be good but if not set up they can be bad - like most things I guess

I use one on my Rustler for braking. The gain is set low to prevent it having too much input when accelerating but I can let the throttle off & brake (set low) to a stop in almost a dead straight line without any steering input. Most speed run vehicles use them or have used them

And when you get bored you can plug them into anything for some bashing fun

River, I'm not sure that the gyro/wheelie thread ever went anywhere because there are too many problems associated with gyro's used in this application in cars?? lots of talk but little fact or evidence

Did some testing today and it didnt go as good as I expected. Gyro worked awesome though highly recomended. Didn't hit 80 mph either but did manage some high speed wheelies with lots of sparks from the straightened out titanium skid. I changed the gear from 27/42 to 30/40 and the punch control and the throttle curve and the timing on the esc and I made it way to powerful when I get to about 80 % throttle. I set the timing @ at 5* advanced before it was 0*. I also set the punch control @ 80% instead of 90% like I had I before. I changed the curve so it ramped up faster @ 80% throttle and I think that was a big mistake, it wheelied at about 80% throttle every time and I had to let off. 75 mph wheely with lots of sparks can get exciting though it definatly will go faster if I can keep the front on the ground. I am going to put it back to they way it was before and do 80+mph next time out. Understand I have my son with the radar and my buddies 12 year old daughter with the 4 year old picture camera so the video. Here the vids not in order though.

This is the 75mph wheely had to let off didnt want a blow over.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_CIMG2667.jpg

This one I cut the center out of the wing thinking it was excessive rear downforce and tried again, Nope still comes up, damm it!
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_CIMG2669.jpg

This one I had to let off because I almost hit the curb.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...h_CIMG2666.jpg

Fairly flying isn't it! Looking very strong...

My body with the front splitter should help this issue also I am going to leave the throttle curve straight diagonal also without an 80% throttle uncontrollable voltage spike. lol It definatly has more in it if the front will stay on the ground.

Awesome! Lets push that puppy harder! Need more front downforce. Maybe think about making the front end less stiff and the rear stiffer. Not sure if that would help but should allow the wind to push down on the front end easier...

WOW blazing! I love it!

The front is pretty soft with no preload and the rear has the harder springs with some preload. I am going to remove almost the whole back kickup on the high downforce wing also, It shoud help out if it has enough traction to come up thats telling me it has enough or too much downforce. Or maybe my front wing idea might come back into play.

Front wing
 

Need a front wing or defusor of some kind that will apply some down force, or shifting some weight to the front from the rear some how. I know some things seem impossible, but think about it.

Yea, I have as much weight far forward as possible includng the batts. Like I said I might rethink the front wing design. But putting the throttle curve back to stock and 90 or 100% punch control should do the trick. It only came up when I went over 80% throttle also. To much power added at 80% throttle on the curve I set up. Basically it didn't work the way I though it would. A more linear curve should be alot better.

i went threw all these pages to look for the videos lol. and of course its on the last page.. thats a very nice maxx man.. that thing is insanely fast!! i love how it sparks when it wheelies tickles my fancy lol..

Painted the body decals or not
 

I have decided not to run the monster energy drink theme because I couldn't get permission from the company. Oh well, got some free decals coming anyway. I will use the decal kit I bought for another body I am not competing with . I painted it with my favorite color black, look so good when new. Question is should I decal it up or leave it all black? The bsr decals on the wheels and my name on the roof above the window will have to stay no matter what though. What do you guys think?. I need to finish up the front splitter. I also am thinking about getting rid of the buggy wing and make a lexan type wing with no downforce and big vertical stabilizers.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2674.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2675.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2676.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/CIMG2677.jpg

sweet 6lb 8oz baby jeezus thas fast! i dont post much but you deserve it man!--josh

Less is more in my opinion. Unless companies are helping you out, no reason to give them free advertising (RCM excluded of course!).

BSR mounted the tires on the wheels for me but I paid for that. I paid for the whole thing no real sponsers at all except for you guys giving me some support and pats on the back. My last order with rcm I could of sworn I bought a decal sheet but didnt get it. I did get a real small one 1.5"x1.5" so I guess I use that. I will put on a small supermaxx decal also. I thought maybe put the different decals from the different product I use kinds like a contingency type deal. Maybe they will kick some free products down if break the record. IDK well see.

Nice looking truck.

Just a tip here, get your radar guy to stand where the truck will max out and just point the radar gun at where it will start. Closer to the ground is better. I can see him moving the gun as the truck goes by, this will produce false readings.

When I was testing my 10th scale tc for speed, I was doing the same thing, and got readings all over the place. Put the radar girl (my wife!) at the very end of the run and told her to just point the gun at the starting line. Worked like a charm, as long as I shut down at the same point readings were about 1 mph off, so very repeatable. I use the same gun you have, BTW.

I also found that moving her around would allow me to squeeze a few mph out of the car. Best run was 68mph, but I had her move about 300ft father away (more for saftey purposes) and gave the car about 50 more feet of full throttle run, gained 6mph in just 50 feet!!!!. If I had more room the car should have done 80mph easy. Don't laugh, it is a bone stock tamiya tt-01 tc with a feigao 380c 6s motor, MM, and at the time I was running maxamps 4000 20c (my ass) 3s lipos (had about 350 bucks in the whole deal). I need to rebuild her and try it out with a good lipo and more room.

Great work
 

In my opinion it looks just fine all black with very little decaling. Besides at 80 mph no one will really see it anyway. Just your name and maybe the ECM and SuperMaxx stickers will look strong enough. I hope that you are able to reach your 80mph goal/dream. If not the practice will do you good and you can work on improving your design and making better speeds next year. I doubt that this event is going anywhere soon. From the attendance I believe it will be around for quite a while. It is very cool just to see the improvements that have been accomplished in electric R/C over the last few years, and even more so for the things I am sure that we wil see in the near future. Great Work RiverMaxx, and good luck at the event. Keep it up.

Thanks Linc, you make a good point about the radar. I was hitting almost maxx throttle about where my son was standing (notice the wheelies) about the same spot. I dont believe the radar gun will pick up the speed as the truck goes by it needs to be of the truck coming at it or going away so I am sure the speed were faster because of the angle of the gun compared to the car. I will put the gun lower to the ground and farther down the street in the middle but not with my son holding it I have a small box for that. Any rc car at those speeds can be leathal. The event will have speed trap so those readings should be exact. What sucks is my class will be the 2nd out on the track so I hope they clean the track of all the dust before the run. Jerry my goal/ dream is 100mph. 80+ mph hopefully should be on the next video. I am going to do the practice runs with only 30t pinion/40tspur and at the event I will change the spur to a 38 and then my highest 36. Each one should squeek out a few more mph. I also am going to advance with the timing also. I know castle says it doesn't make a difference but create more heat with a 1515 1.5y 2700 kv motor but taking to Nic Case last week he has convinced me otherwise. I will leave it all black with a few decals. I think it looks very stealth that way. Is it true that heated batts will give better results? I have seen threads on this and was thinking about bringing a heating pad also.

Heating your cells definitely works, it lowers the IR allowing a big first run or two...not great for the cells in the long run though

I like how Hermes solved the radar problem in this vid, narrow slot to aim through at those speeds!!

You can get up to 65C/150F leaving them in the sun on the dark panels of your truck during summer. Otherwise a small cooler & hot water bottle, using boiling water works well...as does a quick top up charge from say 95% charge to 100% while heating