im sure you are not the only one who has one thats waiting XD

Looks sweet Mike.

Any estimates on the roller weight? Just wondering what voltage and motor size will be "enough" for this. Cold it be run on a 2s HV4.5 setup like alot of guys are racing he 4wd SC trucks on?

I'd like to take this and rig up some body mounts to make a SC 4wd out of it. Looks like a perfect fit for the class.

Roller weight was specified at the beginning of the thread. With no battery, motor, ESC, or tires, the weight was 4lbs 10oz. Stock tires are 125g each. Add the motor mount and battery tray, the weight should be around 6lbs.

I saw that. I was just wondering if there was a better estimate now that Mike has the prototype built.

If its 6lbs without esc, motor, electronics and battery that seems pretty heavy. My Xray 808 is 6lbs ready to go with everything except the battery. 6lbs with no motor/esc/servo/etc... seems pretty heavy to me. Maybe not a good choice for a 2s based 4wd SC. For sure to heavy to try and run on a 1/10 motor.

Someone should weigh an XL motor, MMM and 2s 5000mah lipo....

Now that is what I want to see. Sct is really my thing now. Just got a jammin but this looks even better to me.

WTF? How the heck did I miss this post! Lookin good Mike. But I am disappointed that you contaminated the truck with a lowly Feigao! :lol:

I sure that was just something he grabbed quickly... :lol:

BG, maybe you should photoshop a Neu in there...

In regard to tires, Does anyone know if the old panther Komodo Dragon tires (the old small illegal truggy ones) are still being made? I think the buggy's are too small and the truggies are too big for this truck

are theses the ones you mean? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNPN6&P=ML

Now i have tired for 2 hours to fit the Losi 8ight 2.0 E spur, and yes it does fit, but it need some tallent:P Wich is why i cant get it to work...
Ps. i need the motor mount now :(

I got it to fit now:) i just had to make the hole in the middle bigger:D

Like many i suspect then i am watching this with GREAT interest!! Kind of looks like the DEX410 electric 1/10....so could be a great SC truck or even a good 1/10 racer!!

Got an email today saying everything is on its way! :yipi:

I ended up deciding on a Tekin RX8 combo (1900kv buggy motor) to go with it. In hindsight, I probably should have gotten the hotwire thingy too, but never thought about it until now.

Yeah, the Hotwire is like the Castlelink except not as newbie friendly... It's pretty much a expensive must have.

I kinda figured. It's just I have so many Castle ESC's that I subconsiously assumed I had what I needed. No matter, looks like Mike is out of stock of Hotwires anyway.

I just went to the Tekin site and can't seem to find any kind of manual on the hotwire, like what exactly it adjusts. Specifically, I want to set a 3.2v/cell cutoff, and/or some type of LVC comparable to Castle's "auto lipo" mode (that is VERY nice when running different packs). But it would be nice to see the everything it can adjust before I go ou and get it.

Lucky you brian:( :lol:
Too bad i just spend my money on a e-revo 1/10 -.- then i need to start saving money for the tent conversion AGAIN XD

Go with a MMM...

Tekin ESCs don't do "auto-lipo". You have to set the LVC specific to the battery you are running.

Today i got my HPI 17mm hex (#86821) And im happy to say it fits:D
I also tried to mount the e-revo 1/10 wheels on the ten-t and they run against the body even when the car isnt turning, but the wheels dont that offset, that might be a reason:)

Yeah, definitely will need some offset if you want larger wheels.

I'm unclear as to what's wrong with the stock wheels and tires. The proportion is perfect, and if you are going to be running on a track Losi has two other 320 size tires. They have the Kingpin, which looks like a Pro-Line holeshot and the other one looks like the Bowtie tire. They also have the Force wheels in black chrome, hell the Zombie max tires would be ok on a loose loamy track.

http://search.horizonhobby.com/index...d=127585E44B4D

I just want the conversion kit so I can hit the track and do some 1/10th scale ownage. What's going to suck is answering a thousand "what's that" questions the first few days at the track.

+1 On wanting the conversion kit.

OK, I got the Ten-T all done up. Went with the Tekin RX8 system (1900kv buggy motor) on 4s 5000mAh Turnigy's, and 20T 32p pinion. The fan on the ESC didn't work out of the box, but upon closer inspection, the red wire was pulled out of the solder joint - nothing a little soldering didn't fix.

Anyway, here are the pics of it all complete:

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...es/ten_t_1.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...es/ten_t_2.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...es/ten_t_3.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...es/ten_t_4.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...es/ten_t_5.jpg

http://scriptasylum.com/bl_conversio...es/ten_t_6.jpg

Drove it around in the basement and am pretty impressed. Sensored works wonderfully at low speed, and brakes are smoother. The buggy motor has plenty of power for this vehicle.

Oh... Common, no video? BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

Thats AWSOME mate ,I want one:yes:..........can't wait to see the Vid

Video of it running in my basement? Not likely. And it is so wet/muddy outside that it would probably sink and disappear from sight.

I'm pretty sure Mike got his done as well so he should be taking it to RCX next week.

Is the spur a 48t, but different pitch?

If only it wasn't a Losi! I've never had anything larger from them, just 1/36 and 1/18 scale stuff but I wasn't impressed with any of it. I would like to see some other manufacturers follow suit with this class. I would like to see an RC10T 4x4! I think that a MMM 2650 combo on 3s would be adequate for this size truck.

Mike made a custom (maybe Delrin IDK) spur that is 32p and 52T.

A couple other notes about the kit:

Mike used only existing holes in the chassis.

The battery tray/ESC mount is one piece and instead of self-tapping the screws to hold it down, Mike used brass inserts.

The motor mount is a little different. It is designed like the old emaxx mount where there is only a screw hole in the bottom, but there is a radial slot on top. So, adjustment is easier. However, instead of the bottom screw holding the motor to the mount, the screw simply holds a bushing to the motor, which makes motor replacement and adjustment easier. Being skeptical, I called Mike about this and he assured me this design works well as it takes a LOT of force to strip the threads. The motor's vertical forces are still being supported by two screws.

Looks great, but Im having trouble visualising how that bushing thing works exactly..

I attached a pic Mike sent me a while back. That bushing gets mounted to the motor itelf via a screw. Then, that bushing/motor just gets inserted into the hole (not funny comments linc).

I would like to address a potential concern that may arise (and BrianG touched on) regarding the use of a single M3 screw to hold the motor in place:

The M3 screw is rated for 174,000 psi pullout/tensile strength(not a typo - 174 thousand pounds per square inch). Basically, if the screw is tight(bellville washer is included to help insure this), the strength far exceeds what is necessary for the task at hand(even with a pretty large motor). The aluminum threads in the motor would be the 1st failure point, actually - it is recommended that the screw engages threads in aluminum equal to 1-1.5x the major diameter of the screw (so 4.5mm thread engagement for optimum strength when threading into aluminum - most motors have at least 5mm thread depth). It is somewhat normal to be skeptical of a single M3 screw I suppose, but most folks don't realize exactly how much force they can take when used/tightened properly. :)

Niel - the motor mount effectively works exactly like the ERevo motor mount - just a slightly different means to the same end. :)

Wow Mike! Bravo!! I must say I like the motor mount and the whole conversion is super clean!!! Very nice!

If the truck does a couple of endos and lands on its lid is that single M3 screw strong enough to keep from bending when the whole weight of the motor is now being pushed to the top of the truck (remember it landed upside down) by inertial forces? The single screw is then just a pivot point for the motor as the back end of the motor is forced away from the chassis.

Imo it looks great.Nice job Mike.If someone would be worried about the strength of a single screw shouldnt they be able to use the included bushing w/a longer screw and a washer slightly larger in diameter than the lower hole opposite side of the motor for more durability? Just a thought.

Brian, can you tell us how much the truck weighs, RTR with body on?

"If the truck does a couple of endos and lands on its lid is that single M3 screw strong enough to keep from bending when the whole weight of the motor is now being pushed to the top of the truck (remember it landed upside down) by inertial forces? The single screw is then just a pivot point for the motor as the back end of the motor is forced away from the chassis."

Not quite accurate. The screw is subjected to mostly tensile load as it pulls the motor against the mount - friction between the face of the motor and the motor mount does most of the work of keeping everything in place. This tensile force would need to be overcome in order for the motor to move off the mount on the top or bottom side(the screw isn't at the edge of the motor, so the 'pivot point' statement is not valid - the edge of the motor can is the only possible pivot point) As a side note - in your example, much of the force would also be in the downward direction(or upwards if the car was right-side-up) - in this instance, both screws would share the shear load, though the lower screw doesn't offer any tension towards the mount. Even without the top screw installed at all, the lower bushing will hold the motor in place (at rest of course).

While I understand and appreciate the concerns(which is why I explained it in the 1st place), I am confident that this system will work perfectly and will not be a point of failure. :)

"If someone would be worried about the strength of a single screw shouldnt they be able to use the included bushing w/a longer screw and a washer slightly larger in diameter than the lower hole opposite side of the motor for more durability? Just a thought."

Yes, this could certainly be done if one was concerned. I think the concerns will be proven invalid, but this option is of course available at the cost of adjustment convenience(in reality, how often do you set gear mesh to begin with?).

"Brian, can you tell us how much the truck weighs, RTR with body on"

Mine weighed 6 lbs 13oz RTR with a 4s, 4000mah Hyperion battery(no body). I did not weigh it with the body. I used the 1900Kv Tekin buggy combo on my truck, so it is basically identical to Brian's. :)

Seeing as you're so quick and helpful in answering our questions... When can I buy the kit :) :lol: