^ is correct. At the end of a charge (or from about 3.8v and up) it keeps the individual cells at the same voltage.

I finally found someone with an extra cell that they sold me. It'll ship tomorrow. Soon I'll be able to try out a 4S2P emoli configuration.

I tried out the 4S1P in my MT2 this morning, and it did better than I anticipated, considering the potential amp draw of the 9L. I did several speed runs up and down the street and recorded a max gps-verified speed of 48 mph. This is just barely less than the 50 mph I achieved with 12 IB3800's. I only ran the emolis for about 5 minutes, but the cells didn't heat up at all. When I get that extra cell, I'll be able to see how 4S2P performs.

Let us know how they work out. Do you expect abovethe 50 mph with the 4s 2p?

I am sure you will get above the 50mph with two of them P

At my current gearing of 52/14, I should theoretically be able to hit 62 mph, assuming no drivetrain losses. I'm guessing that my actual max. speed would be in the mid-fifties if the batteries can deliver enough amps and volts under load.

I'm seriously considering picking up 2 of these packs and building a 5s2p pack. Would there be any interest for my remaining cells here?

Definitely! Except that I don't have the funds for them right now... I'm sure somebody will have some interest.

Well I just bought 2 packs. I'll have 4 cells left over, let me know if anyone is interested in them.

You've got a PM! :)

PM's replied

Just to let everyone know, you can purchase the Emoli cells individually. The one guy that failed at it first was able to acquire them from a source separate from Emoli. What's even better is their price: $14/cell!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=529722
This is better than buying an Milwaukee pack and breaking it down!

Ouch, makes me regret buying 2 milwaukee packs oh well.

I got them off ebay for $175 for 2 packs ($12.50 a cell). I have found that these emoli cells can not take a high power draw. I am running a 7XL, MGM 16024 and UE 8 spyder diffs. and on a full throttle start it dies. Once it gets moving decently I can hit full throttle and there is no problem. This gets more noticeable the longer I run it. I am useing 2 2s2p packs.

That's odd. Does it die due to the LVC coming on?

My 9L didn't have that problem at all, but I know it's not pulling as many amps as your 7XL.

Are these cells 3.7v each then?

cart213, yes it is from the lvc. When it dies I let the trottle go back to neutral (to reset) and I have power again.

Nick, yes the voltage is 3.7v nominal. My two 2s2p packs charge to 8.4v each.

@cart;

the 9L is quite a hot motor!

it can pull serious amps..

Oh, I know it can pull serious amps, I just meant that it shouldn't pull as many amps as a 7XL, right?

Tazz what is your lvc set to? 12 volts is a conservative lvc setting, but if you are hitting the limit with your setup, then you can set it to 10 volts, assuming the Quark has that capability. According to Emoli, the cells are safe down to 2.5 volts each.

The Quark sets its LVC from 2.2v to 3.0v per cell.

Oops, I just noticed that Tazz has an MGM160, not a Quark 125. How does the MGM set lvc?

MGM sets its LVC to 3.1v/cell. That sounds like it is the problem! Set it to the "RPM reduce" setting, assuming you aren't using it already.

I think I have it set to "motor cutoff". I will try the "slow reduce rpm" setting this week. I may try an 8XL. How well would it perform on 14.8v and do you think it would cure this problem.

If it's a more mild motor, then it should reduce the current draw. Using the "slow reduce RPM" setting should have a noticable effect.

It is amilder motor that is why I was questioning the performance. An 8XL on 4s is only going to do about 27,750 rpm max. On 5s it will do about 35,700 rpm max. I want to stay with 4s. I will try the "slow reduce RPM" setting before I do anything else.

OK, I changed to "slow reduce RPM" and it fixed the problem. Now all I have to do is get the gearing correct. I am running 20/70 (RR slipper because I have a few of them and alot of 5mm 32 pitch pinions) and my temps are motor: 180-185, esc: 125-130 and batteries: 105-110.

Your motor is way to hot.

I know, that is why I said I have to get the gearing correct. I started with 21/66 (3.14) (motor hit 200 in about 4 min.) then went to 20/68 (3.4)(motor 170-175 10-12 min.) to 20/70 (3.5)(motor 180-185 10-12 min.). I need to maybe try a 3.3 ratio. Do you have any suggestions?

Thats odd....It goes from 200 to 175 to 185.... Anywho, I think its undergeared possible but I'm not sure. Hot motor, cool controller, cool batteries=under geared. But your batteries and esc are about right...

Did you drive it the same all three times and did you have the same outside temps?

Not sure on the temps (3 diff. days) but I drove it in the same area and manner every time.