I will gladly be awaiting those caps :).

That motor temp doesn't sound too good... My thoughts tell me that it's toast, since after about 180 deg. on the outside the inner temperature will most likely be hot enough to start de-magnetizing the rotor. I'm curious if the caps caused the excessive heat in the motor, which might be from their ability to allow for higher currents to flow through the FETs than is possible without them. Or, maybe the motor was just undergeared.

WOW, for the nice setup with the caps AAngel!

WHOW, on the Quark trouble, that is a serious bummer! And yeah, what the BLEEP are the odds of that happening just now? I find that strange that there would be 'bad' caps, seems rare to me.

So you did notice a big difference with the MM with those 4 extra caps? Really like how you did that man. thumbs up



I guess I should pay you for those caps, PM me.

I've always found the Feigaos to run hot. The motor may be toast, I'll have to see. I'm going to gear it up and bit and see what happens. I just hate to gear it up because it was running perfect for the track. I may just put the 9XL in it and then gear it up.

i sent a pm about caps

8ight t looks SWEET!! all of them!

Hmm, that looks like a nice tidy setup. Is that rust or dirt on the MM, looks like it needs a clean! Interested about the motor temp though, that does sound high- wonder what the cause is/was/could be if its mormally like that; anyone experience it when using the 8XL & MM?

What are the capacity on the stock MM caps? are they 270uF each? Or are they just a smaller package?

IIRC, 220uF 25v.

suicideneil, that's dirt. We run on the stuff at our track.

hmmm, I wonder if you replaced those caps then with just the caps you bought, if then it would be capable of 6s? They do use the same FET's as the Quark right?

or atleast run 5s without getting fried

Yeah, even making 5s work flawlessly/reliably would make it 'the' controller for the average basher.


Also,(i've asked before) I want to get this custom Quark case designed, does anyone know: (in mm, 0.01 decimal point)

-width of the Quark PCB board?

-distance from bottom surface FET's to top surface of FET's (I want to clamp the power stage board in the case, and thermally coupled to it)

average basher?

id say most ppl, its already i think the most used speedo, all i see is a mm speedo in everything. they ROCK!

I say 'average' because they can't run Neu motors very well apparently. But then again the Quark has even more trouble with what it's rated for... hmm, 6s. :005:

ohh yeah true true

i forgot about that part

zero, I got 27.14mm for width, but have no way of measuring the fet distance.

Thanks, I actually am playing around on CAD right now, and I used 27mm (I went back in the forum and checked the heatspreader width of BrianG).

Also, I am using 5mm for FET to FET, but these are just guesstimates, as this is just a sketch; I will post a screenie in an hour or so. An accurate one is going to have to wait for my Quark to get back from S&T.

ZPB

I dropped all of the capacitors into the mail today.

You're a good man AAngel. :027:

The post-office is open today? :032:

ZPB

Ah, just looks a bit reddish... my eyes dont function as well as they should.:025:

EXCELLENT!

It is, in the U.S. :).

hmm, not in Canada it's not. Well that's good for me then. :027:

Thanks AAngel! Should be here Wed, maybe Thurs.

I shipped via Priority Mail and click and ship on the net. I just printed the postage and dropped the boxes in the box. LOL.

Anyway, I think I have a handle on my HOT Feigao. I wasn't even thinking about it, but on my other vehicles, they all share the same diff mount, so I got the aluminum diff mounts and bolted my motor mount to the aluminum diff mount, which in turn was bolted to the chassis. I am using the optional Sportwerks aluminum diff mounts. On the 8ight, I bolted the motor mount to the plastic diff mount. Nothing even occurred to me, until the diff mount got so soft from the heat that the screws stripped out of it. I made an aluminum motor/diff mount (one piece) today and now my motor temps are back under control. I guess that thermal path to the chassis really makes a difference with the motor temps with these inefficient motors.

Suicideneil, it is red. We run on red dirt. That stuff is a PITA. It gets everywhere. I actually have clothes that are relegated to "track" duty, because this red dirt stains if it gets rubbed in.

Yes, I'm in the states.

AAngel, let us know how your MM does with higher gearing, to entice some cogging to happen. I'm really happy that the caps worked so well, especially with a MM.

OK guys. Since the Quark had to go back to S&T, I decided to get rolling with the MM, so I cleaned everything up a bit. The 8ight is running so well, that I may just get rid of the Quark and the Compro when I get them back.

Anyway, here's the latest version of my cap bank. Again, it is a set of four caps, encased in aluminum and epoxy mixed with aluminum oxide powder.

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0262.jpg

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0264.jpg

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0261.jpg

http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...r/DSCF0260.jpg

I kept the fan on the esc for super cool running. The problem I'm having now is that I used to use the temps to adjust gearing. Now the esc runs so much cooler than the motor, I find myself overgearing and I can only tell because it starts to cog.

Right now, I'm running 14/44 gearing with a 9XL and the MM on 4S lipo. Does that gearing sound right? Do I need to go up or down on the pinion/spur?

zpb, I have it geared at 14/44 because it just starts to cog sometimes when I take off. Not bad, but just a bit. I DON'T like cogging, so I left it at 14/44. I don't know if I'm comparing apples to oranges, but I was running 14/46 in my buggy with the 8XL. I figure that if I went to the 9XL in the buggy, I'd go to 16/46. Now if you can follow my logic, I figured that I'd need to gear down a bit to compensate for the larger tires on the truck, so I'm back to 14/46 with the 9XL for being a good gearing in the truck. Since I'm running a 44T spur, I'm acutally a bit higher than I wanted. Sorry for the logic process, but I suck at math. Motor is still getting hot. About 160 after 5 minutes of "I'm trying to kill it" running.

The esc is running 120. What I know about the behavior of brushless systems, I should need to gear up a bit to run the esc harder and cool the motor off a bit, but I can't gear up any more. Or don't want to. Maybe I'll wind up keeping the Quark after all, but then I'll have to muck with the beautiful setup I have now.

glad to see that you like your 8ight-t, mine is still waiting for a motor mount. also looks like the extra caps are helping out a lot. I wish my mm ran at 120. as for gearing I run a 16/46 with the 9xl in the buggy.

I am so glad that the caps are working so well AAngel.

That's the thing now, you could gear up some, but the MM will cog like you said too high gearing.

You HAVE to tell me exactly what you did for the cap bank in alum oxide/epoxy.

I am thinking of putting two 5.5mm plugs on my custom Quark case, just so they are there for anything, like an ultra-cap bank, or whatever...

zeropointbug, I'm going to try to get someone to run by the post office for me. I'm going to be in trial all week and won't be ablet to. I'm borrowing a computer right now to clown around while I'm waiting.

As for the plug thing, I too was thinking about that. Just makes things more versatile. The only problem is that the plugs degrade over time. I know that I change mine often on my escs and motors. I don't like the idea of having to bend them to make them tight either.

I hope that my Quark gets here in the next week, if they fix it. The way my luck has been going, they might tell me that it's not covered for whatever reason. But...if I do get it back, I think I'm going to make a bank that will fit as many caps as I can within a length equal to that of the Quark. Then I can just epoxy the Quark to the cap bank and then epoxy that to the heatsink.

The epoxy is easy. The aluminum oxide powder can be found at hobby shops catering to rock collectors. They use the stuff to tumble polish rocks (go figure). Get the finest powder that you can. It costs around $8 for a 1lb bottle. I just mix up my two part epoxy and then add the powder until the epoxy turns into a paste that looks like thermal epoxy. They you just apply it as you would the epoxy. Once the epoxy starts to heat up, it flows really well and gets into all of the nooks and crannies. I won't say that it works as well as Arctic Alumina, but it does work well. It does move heat.

gixxer, 16/46 in a buggy? Man, I started running 16/44 with the crimefighter mtrs this morning. After a HARD 5 minute run, I was reading 150 on the motor and 125 on the esc. I'm finally loading it enough to get the esc to generate a bit of heat and cooling the motor down some. What's wild is that the caps on the MM used to get hot. After a run, they were always hotter than the heatsink. Now, the caps are way cooler than the heatsink. If I get a wild hair, I might try popping the sink off of a MM and putting a better sink on it.

I do have to say that all of this leads me to some wondering. Actually, I'm starting to think that I'm full of it and all of my positive results have been figments of my imagination. I mean...if adding caps is all it takes to make things run so much better, why aren't the manufacturers doing it? I'd gladly go for an esc that runs cooler at the sacrifice of some space. Of course, I suppose I just have to keep in mind that we are running these escs out of spec; but hey, my MM got hot when I ran it in my T4 too.

gixxer, I meant to ask. How long have you been running your MM on 5S. I tried it this morning and the one that I got back from Castle will run 5S. Some of my others won't even go with 5S. They just sit and do nothing.

I kind of got scared and went back to 4S. Besides, even the 9XL on 5S was pretty nuts. Now I'm thinking that I'll have to try a 10XL. What's concerning me now, is the added weight of the 5S pack.

What packs do you run?

The newer MM ESCs use different FETs (and maybe other support components).

Well, the ones that I have that will do 5S are the older ones. The one I'm running right now is the first one that I got after their release.

Am I to assume that I don't have to worry about frying anything as long as it isn't cogging and things stay cool? I'm really liking the way this 9XL ran with the 5S. I just took it out because I've already blown up two MMs running 5S, but that was in the Muggy, which is a good 3lbs heavier than the 8ight T.

I have been running 5s since I set up the 8ight. I would say around february. as for the gearing I am running 16/46 in the buggy, I think I can gear higher but that was the biggest pinion I have. I believe the truggy also has a different gear ratio in the diffs to compensate for the larger tires.

so which ones do you think will hold up better? reason I ask is I have been running 5s on the one I have but just ordered another to put in a truggy.

I think running 5s on the MM is pushing it to the ragged edge. The caps on the MM are only 25v IIRC, so they most likely are being punched very hard. Has anyone had the caps blow on the MM? Or is it the board that something fries on it?

It seems like to me that the Quark has the most capacitor problems, and it has it's caps internally in case, I wonder if this has anything to do with it?

[/QUOTE]I might try popping the sink off of a MM and putting a better sink on it.
[/QUOTE]

You could use a larger fan instead. This one that I use is a 30mm fan. Here is a pic. It hangs over a little but It covers more area and blows more air. It is held in place with 2 screws (the zip tie is holding the ESC in place).

Have you mounted up some extra caps to your MM yet?

Cartwheels, did you get those capacitors from AAngel? Or did you buy your own?

I bought a batch too. I originally bought the wrong kind. The price was right so I went ahead and got the 200, but I really only need less than 20.

What was the original ones you had purchased? Were they not low-esr type?

Let me know how thy work for you? :027: