So I tried this trick of double 15X21 bearings that some people are doing in the axle carriers to be able to use the stock LST XXL diff cups. I wanted to see if it worked with the stock Traxxas axle carriers and the rear Traxxas extended arms. It turns out that it all came together beautifully. One thing I did to push the CVD even deeper into the diff cups was to drill the holes for the pillow balls 3 mm deeper then they are. Then I screwed the pillow balls about 1.5 mm deeper which brought the CVD axle pin deeper in the cup where I wanted it. There is now three bearings supporting the axle, and the outer bearing and the most inner bearing are now 5 mm more apart so it should give a lot of support to the axle. Now being able to use the stock LST XXL diff cups cuts down on the amount of mods to be done and the parts needed.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_cups1.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_cups3.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_cups7.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w..._lst_cups4.jpg http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...lst_cups10.jpg

If you drill out the traxxas hop-up axles the fit very good for the center shafts, and you don not have to buy a bunch of different parts to make them work. I picked mine up on ebay for about 28 bucks shipped. I do realize they are not built like a tank like the other axles but I think they should work pretty well.

center driveshafts don't get shredded as often because they only have to handle ~1/3 the torque that the axle shafts do. I bet the 'standard' Traxxas CVA's will do just fine there. (:

Nope, I replace my rear center shaft after about 4-5 packs/runs.

I need to break down and buy dog bones for it when my revo axle surplus runs out.

All I did for over a year on this truck is experiment with ways to make it better. Once I find something that fixes one problem and it proves that it's functional and durable after a lot of time testing, I stick to it. I don't get why some feel the need to tell me that going back to stock parts should be sufficient. If I changed it it's because it didn't work on my truck. And then I share what I did to fix the problem. It's free! If you like it, take it and enjoy. If you don't like it then, you got what you paid for :na: :mdr:

If this is directed at my by no means did I mean any disrespect by what I said. Also, I have read this thread probably 10 times from post to post and is full of great info and I thank you for taking the time to offer your experience. The axles that I was talking about are not the factory axle, but the cvd dog bone style the traxxas offers as the race axles. I just thought I would let people know I found something that might also work.

Don't get me wrong, no offense taken really. And you're right, it's good to know about all the options out there.

I also would like to say I do agree with you if you look at the cups and the axles just by size yours look 10 times stronger then the traxxas stuff. I have also learned that if the traxxas stuff did not work the first time the best stuff probably isn't going to work the second time, but I am going to try it and see how things turn out.

I just want to say thank you for this thread. I has been outstanding to see the things that you are doing and also letting us see them. It has been helpful to me several times. So thank you very much..,.

You're welcomed,

Now I find this very interesting. This guy from Italy made an aluminum chassis for his 1/16 E-Revo. The chassis is cool but I doubt it would hold up to off road abuse. He built it mainly for speed runs I think. What I find uber cool is the motor mount he made. The guy's a genius. By having the sliding gear mesh adjustment screw on the other side of the spur, he spread the load to a wider area which makes me think it makes this mount much stronger and stiffer. He also made a small piece that supports the bottom pivoting screw and ties it to the chassis. Brilliant! I'm tempted to make one of my own but I would extend the top part of the plates to have a second sliding adjustment screw in the stock position like the stock motor plate. That way, the motor would be supported on three points and tied down to the chassis instead of just hanging from the motor plate with two screws.
This was seen on the French forum ''Revopowaaa''
http://www.revopowaaa.com/t3113-e-re...-kazuaki#39313

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/9718/mmount1.jpg

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/1927/mmount2.jpg

http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/6900/mmount3.jpg

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/459...mountparts.jpg

Hey mistercrash! That guy is here on RCM. http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23804 :intello:

What a small RC world we live in :lol:

Here's what I came up with for a first draft. I don't think I could use the spur cover with a mount like that.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t_concept1.gif

I can sooo totally appreciate all the work that gentleman did on the french forum with the custom alum Merv chassis, to make that chassis he must of spent many many hours designing and making but if speed runs are desired why not just buy a TC ?

hmm, that project looks very interesting. If I did a fully custom 1:16 chassis, I would probably try to adapt a 1:10 offroad transmission into it. I recently rebuilt an AE RC10T3 magnum transmission and it looks more than robust enough to handle the mini Revo platform, transmissions probably get better as new kits are released too. Just a thought.

that prototype is looking good, Mr.C. I like the idea of having two screws instead of just one, as I've shredded many a spur on my macro Revo when the mesh screw slipped. Good work!

Thanks but this first drawing I made has a major flaw. I couldn't fix that because I had to go to work. The plate that would attach to the motor could not pivot over the slipper nut. So it should look more like this.

Bondo, I always ask myself the same question.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t_concept2.jpg