As mentioned 2300 kv is quite a bit too high for 6s. Many of us would much rather choose a kb around 1300-1600 for 6s, especially in a heavier truck like that. That will help keep the temps of the motor, ESC, and batts in a more reasonable range.

I actually ran it with the 5S and with a +4 pinion gear the motor never got hotter than 130 and then with watercooling my temps never get past 100 degrees. I am running a MMM on my Hyper 7 with 20 tooth pinion , a 4S 6k polyrc batts, 1515 1.5D Neu and it is a monster. I put an external fan on top of the Neu and the motor never got hot so I would like to try it out but afraid to mess up the ESC since I just received it.:yes:And yes I wasn't expecting a warm welcome on my new post.

i was pointing out in a jokingly way not to get any more maxamps packs. its clear from the real graphs compared to other cells (kokam, enderland, Flight Power ETC) that they arent worth the money.

i was also pointing out as others have said, it will draw alot of amps! but dindt mean to offend you, and welcome :)

Add me to the list of people that say that's too high of KV. That being said, if you can get batteries that can power that beast of a motor the ESC SHOULD handle it but you're going to pull a lot of amps. If you are set on getting the 1527 I won't try to stop you, but I believe it is too much. A 1521 will keep the front wheels in the air and have plenty of power. I would worry about destroying drivetrain parts (stripping ring and pinion gears, snapping drive pins, etc.), but if you want the 1527 that's cool and by all means go for it...just don't complain about it when you tear the truck apart.

7s2p A123 on a 1500KV 1.5D or a 1250KV 1Y should be good for that setup. I'd go for the 1Y myself, they are a more efficient wind. 2s A123 packs should be able to provide more than 200 amps burst.

Mmm V3
 

I got a little defensive there but it's all good now. I do know that it was waaayy overkill for the 1527 1D on the Lst2 since I tried it out and my
truck was just all over the place but I did some changes to the suspension
and maybe it will work better. Thanks for the warm welcome. :lol::party:

Ohh yeah, by the way, welcome to the forum :party:

Even the 1.5D on 6S is a heavy hitting combo..
Batts better be up to task and I would seriously consider getting an Eagletree or another data logger and watch your current draw/voltage hits.

Mmm V3
 

Thanks, I would hook up my volt sensor on my Nomadio when I get my Neu 5k
lipo in the mail. I'm still waiting for my 6S 25c maxamp batts but that is the setup that I wanted to run.

I'd monitor current pull as that is what will do ya in if you pull to much from the batteries.
I am sure you have heard that MaxAmps aren't going to be the best route for a massive AMP hungry motor.
If you over draw the batteries, you'll end up experiencing some ripple current/voltage and that can send some electronics up in flames. Might want to look at adding an additional cap...?

Mmm V3
 

What kind of cap should I get and it should be in parallel of the input wires.
Thanks in advance for any advice that you could share.

I'm planning to install 2 2200 micro farad 105*C capacitors on the V3.

Yes, the cap leads go to the battery leads. Just make sure to observe proper polarity when you hook up the caps or they WILL pop and/or smoke (and it's stinky).

ive got 2mmmv3 today...but one of my unit dont want to power off,,,!!!!!:yes:nothing to do...i remove the on-off switch and the controller still power on!!!!:lol:but the green and yellow light blink...if i turn the esc switcn to on position the cotroller work flawlessly...really strange:whistle:

and if ive removed the on-off switch...could it be ramming(if the word is exact..loll)for the esc??????

i run my v3 in my lst2 brushless,good job castle,i have run better and not break on my first run!!

so my 4 v3 unit still alive after 30 min on each one(with 3 cell lipo):yes:dont know if im lucky but now pretty sure that my v3 are bullet proof :lol: